Toysrme

Hmmm I doubt you'll draw any intrest. You better go where the mass market is. Toyota Nation's Camry forum & Solaraguy.com is where anyone that's everyone will hang out. Solaraguy is more than likely the only place where you'll find any legit intrest. May be a tiny bit of intrest on Yotatech.com & Pirate 4*4 as the RX is a highlander. On a side note. I made a 1/4" spacer out of aircraft ply. The intake is hot enough not to burn yourself once it warms up, but it's still quiet warm to the touch. Maybe get 1-2hp from it. If anything, it just shifts the powerband a tiny bit because the runners grow slightly.

Failures are next to non existance if the factory maint schedule is followed exactly. In four years of being on some very big T/L forums, I remember... 5 P/S pumps being bad. Three of them were McElligott's cause the shop was a bunch of wacko's!!! One was the entire setup on Josh's ES250, then some Camry went out. So ya, say 100,000 Toyota owners over 4 years & I recall 5 being bad. That's not a problem. The waterpumps get changed @ 120,000 miles (every other timing belt). The failure rate with them is low even without the changing. Most of the time, other cooling problems occure before the water pump fins corrode off (The most common water pump specific problem on any car). There really are not very many common issues. They're so reliable we kind of nit-pick things, and most of them are parts that wear, or are generic car problems. (Non ES related)

:P I asked an auzzy, he said it was a little easier than the 3.0L's, but still a !Removed!! hah!

Ya, definately sounds like an exhaust leak. Be that a split flex section, worn out gasket, or loose bolts who knows. <cough> If you want to figure it out in a hurry without going to a shop, pour a 1/2 cup of ATF into one of the big vacuum lines (brake booster is easy). Give it a little rev when you pour it on so it doesn't die. It'll billow smoke for a while until it all burns out, but won't hurt anything. Always makes finding exhaust leaks easy. Along with being a *really* funny practicle joke! LoL!

A lot of times they get mistaken for each other. If noting else, maint. ;)

Can't buy new bushings, they're bonded in there. Either knock it out & use 3M's Window seal/glue poly, or buy a new dogbone, or get a custom one made like TTT.

@ 100,000+ Miles, the o2 sensors & cat are normally out, or on their way out anyway. Yes, if you have the money, I would replace the o2 sensors. I would take the EGR valve & ISC/IAC off & clean them by hand, clean the entire upper intake also. Good to know you're changing the diff fluid, most people leave it! I would suggest either draining the transmission pan every other oil change (that's 10,000 miles), or flushing it every other year. Install a tranny cooler too. SK's right, if you want your engine & tranny oil to come out looking exactly like they went in, install an aux. filter.

Amazing what shipping does. Only costs $5 a can down here. Seafoam will dissolve a lot of oily things, other's it'll loosen it up enough so it's picked up in the oil like it should have been in the first place What? SK you're way off base. Seafoam is: 40-60% Pale Oil 25-30% Naphtha 10-20% IPA (isophthalic acid) Trans-tune is the opposite. Methyl (Methanol) It eats aluminum like crazy! It also has a bad tenancy to gel oils if left in contact for a few weeks. Only complete idiots, or people with enough money to constantly rebuild an aluminum engine use it for anything.

The pump is spinning regardless of you turning the wheel so he may be right. If you were really lucky, maybe he's wrong & you could get by with a new belt & getting the tension just perfect.

No, they were installed correctly. The second one I uninstalled & reinstalled several times in an effort to find anything ACD one slipped on perfectly without any work. (Like the OEM one) Timing belts are easy. They have alignment marks. The only time you get a problem is when you don't use them.:whistles:

I've never found noise to be different. That's why they use two mufflers.

That's only what? Like 2750rpm for the valvetrain, it spins 3500 everytime you hit the rpm limiter. Personally, I thought it was the wrong belt from the time I put it on, but I remember checking the part number & it was correct so... Go figure. Like I said, I just got tired of dealing with the price of the OEM belts.

25,000 mile OEM OEM with maybe 1 hour of running time @ 143mph. I got tired of shelling $60 for a Toyota timing belt. Replaced it with an AC Delco belt, aint had a problem. They specify 60,000 miles. About any timing belt can do 90,000-120,000 miles. I say change it at 60,000 miles, but the belts are so over engineered... It really doesn't matter.

Ya, knock sensors & the wires wear out. (Normally the wires) It's pretty common for them to get knocked around if you pull the heads off, or the (lower) intake manifold. It's probably the distributor O ring, or that area of the valve cover gasket. My o-ring & the valve cover gasket started leaking a little bit too.

Ya I know. I'm re-enforcing the fact that vynil slip on ones are crappy.

I'm lucky, my headlights are mint cause the guy that bought the car kept the factory headlight covers on! tck good luck getting new ones. Used they go for like $200 a unit, even on ebay. It's more asthetic anyway, the headlight has a drain (honestly it doesn't work well), but more importantly the projectors are semi sealed from the headlight housing itself. I highly doubt any moisture would get in the projectors themselves, I know it was hard enough for me to bust my projectors apart & rebuild them when I went HID.

Ya man, you'll hate owning Toyota's if you like to wrench. Nippon Denso electronics seem to last forever, and everything else is overbuilt. If you keep the fresh transmission fluid flowing & descent oil in the thing. Barring the out of the blue parts that fail, it'll probably do at least 300,000. 1/2 million if you're lucky. You were wondeirng about parts changes? Toyota designed the Camry to run 200,000 miles with nothing more than following the routine maintenance. If you actually keep up with it, and flush the transmission fluid (instead of draining like they ask) it'll run 500,000 if you spot it a few out of the blue parts failures (nothing important). The bottom end of the v6's are so overbuilt for their power output it's not funny. Theycan double stock horsepower (with ultra careful tuning), or probably run 500,000-1,000,000 miles stock if you keep fresh oil in them. You're going to love Toyota v8's! ;) Varriable valve timing, 4 valve heads, varriable intake. Gives surprizingly good punch for "small" v8's. The powerband starts so low & goes on forever. The gas mileage is awsome too! 20mpg-23mpg is good for a full size truck. A good friend of mine got one & he get's 23... That's as good as my '93 ES when it was stock & it's what? Half the wind resistance, and a v6 with better gearing hah! If you buy an '05, buy the clear plastic bra that get's bonded to your paint. Paint laws have changed this year, and every manuf. is putting out paint that chips easily. Ya... That's how Lexus/Toyota goes. The types of problems we complain about are "The paint chips easily this year". Lexus & Toyota rock! It's easy to see why they're #2 and catching GM. btw if you ever need servicing, Toyota dealers are "required" to service Lexi. (A few don't) The difference is that Lexus dealers charge a bit more for labor & parts, but are going to be 100% spick & span & will give you brand new "loaner" cars off the lot. Normally the next more expencive model! Just incase you're ever stranded anywhere without a Lexus dealer.... Hahahahaha stranded my !Removed!. They don't even put a light in the engine bay. The serious parts just never seem to break, or wear out.

ya, tck summed it up well. Toyota hasn't used pre-cats on a v6 yet AFAIK (through the 2mz, snot seen a new 3mz). The MZ y-pipes reach farther up into the bay to get to the exhaust manifold.

From Autozone. Distributor cap - $12.99 Rotor - $3.99 DENSO STANDARD - $1.89 PCV- $2.49/$3.99 Fuel Filter - $12.99 Air Filter - $9.49 OR Ebay an AFM adapter for $9.50, they come with a pod filter. Unfortunately, you're going to get raped on the o2 sensor. 2vz-fe uses a 4 wire sensor. The good news, is that the 90+ 2vz-fe's were the first Toyota v6 to get an o2 sensor. The great news is it only has one sensor to replace!

tck, I bought a Bosch one Wednesday for $29 at Autozone to replace my lazy rear bank o2 sensor. The differance between the $25-30 lambda sensor, and the $60-90 lambda sensor is that the expencive one has a matching pigtail. Personally... I couldn't give a rat's &#33;Removed&#33; about the connector. The lambda sensors normally come with heatshrink & a crimp. I always soldier everything, but it really wouldn't matter if you just crimped it. Paying twce the cost for the same sensor with a factory style connector... Aint worth it to me. I mean seriously... If you want to retain a connector, cut the stock one off & crimp/soldier it on the new o2 sensor LoL! OEM VS new Bosch @ 107,000 miles.

They just don't want your biz.

No don't buy an OEM one from Toyota/Lexus. Go to a reputable performance / exhaust shop, and have them make you a new one. It'll not only be many times cheaper, but you oughta get 10-15hp from a good y-pipe, and 5hp if you ditch the cat convertor. Custom Y-pipe oughta cost 250-300usd to build, I wouldn't pay over 250CAD. The driveline vibrating is not caused by the y-pipe. The top engine mount (dog bone) is more than likely worn out. That's the black mount on top that goes between the passanger wheel well & the engine. Unbolt it & inspect the rubber, it'll likely be split. You can either rebuild the mount with 3M window Poly (bust the rubber out friday & put the mount back on sunday evening after the poly has dried), or buy a new one.

Wierd. I'm at such a loss for narrowing it down, I think it would be bad if I just randomly listed things. (I don't like people that troubleshoot by randomly suggesting things; it's counter-productive!)

Sorry, I should have explained! Gen3 Camry / ES bottom rears will bolt to each other. What doesn't line up just perfectly should get covered by the body cladding. I remember some NOPI pics of a Gen3.5 Camry that used ES parts. Like the shaved handles+frameless doors/windows, front 1/4 panel+hood+bumper+headlightswap. That's common (snd tons of work). What set it apart was that it had the ES bottom bumper+plastic cladding done, but retained the aftermarket Camry tail light & trunk(which, themselves are very different). Honestly... The Camry body parts are mainly the same price, so I don't know why we're talking about it. =) I vote do like McElligott! Buy some used JDM panels. The front 1/4's have the cool side turn signal! :P

No. Toyota sets their engines to run excessiely rich in open-loop mode to account for extremely poor grades of gasoline not found in developed countries. So that logic is very, very flawed. By excessively rich, peak power comes at 13.2-1. Nearly every factory Toyota engine will dyno 12.8 & richer. The Camry engines (3s, 4s, 5s, vz, 2vz, 3vz, 4vz, 1mz, 2mz, 3mz) at times dyno down to 12.5! (The v6's nearly all do - That's us!) That's normally the target for mild-medium forced induction. Simply put. The engine can't use the fuel & they bog down. The long term effects are slightly positive. Like I've siad dozes of times. If it's a Toyota engine from around 1980 +, there's at least 10 easy horsepower waiting to be found from simply leaning parts of the fuel curve.