Toysrme

You can lookup when your frame finished assembly. http://toyota.mnc.ru/framno/longindex.html Using mine as an example: VCV10 0158887 November - December 0152363 - 0163278 So we know my 1993 ES 300 was probably in November/December of 1992. Look your car up. If your car is in the last production run it will have sealed struts. (October 1994) From the Toyota Nation Ultimate Camry FAQ: Sealed Serviceable It doesn't matter what you use, either strut will bolt up. You might as well buy a new strut. It costs the same as buying a new cartridge. The only differance in mounting is that the factory sealed struts have a bearing mount. Nothing changes about suspension geometry / mounting. My vote is you buy brand new sealed struts. There's no reason to pay the same amount of money to wind up with half a strut that is over a decade old. (Tho that is a testimate to the original design)

You can mount any generic light. Not a fan of the yellow projector foglight pfffft! They're awsome LoL! Onlybehind the GS yellow foglights for kewl foglights! To each, his own. You know you can disassemble the fog light & take the yellow out right? You better sell them things, they'll fetch a handsome price. If not on a Lexus forum as a replacement, then on Toyota Nation. Camry owners go nutz over cool ES parts like projector lights.

Reset the ECU (Pull the EFI fuse for a second & replace it). If it doesn't get better, check the coolant temp sensor.

No. A piggyback, or full blown custom engine management are the only options.

The red blinking security light; right under it is the remote switch that turns the key on & off. Make sure that's set to ON. Otherwise the battery in the remote is dead. Pretty cheap. $10 at Lexus & if you can get in the key you can just change the batt. Keep in mind the key's don't have a lot of rabge. A weak battery will open the doors like 10-15' away. My new batts work maybe 40-45' in a 100% empty parking lot. About 30' if it's full.

That's actually a really good idea. The way I see it in theory; it'll push the roting into the studs, but it'll knock them off. And if it doesn't work do it in reverse too! LoL!

Be sure to look upside down too. Sometimes the cut-outs for the clutch mount can leak.

Sounds to me like you've go it covered! I'm not sure if a penatrating oil could clear a clog or not. If it doesn't get better; run 40psi through the two drain holes, if it doesn't get better, try 80psi. I wouldn't personally go any higher.

The obvious answer is the switch, or it's contacts are bad... Take the panel off & find out.

AFM adapters sell for $10usd about everywhere & normally come with a pod filter also.

What damage is there? Bumper, fog lights, headlights, frame/supports. Typically on any car, a good general estimate is $1000 a body panel for labor, repair & paint. Not including other things needed for things like lights, housings, glass, etc.

91 http://autopia.org/ - greatest car care forum... ever http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=30 I'd bust out the dremel & de-bur first, then fill & sand. It wouldn't be a hard thing to do except for the two light textures in the wheel. Go figure LoL! I still think check for damage before writing it off. Once you touch that wheel up, no way to check unless it fails.

Hijack, sorry 91. ;) Ya, not every day you see a lexus lideways! My favorite Lexus related picture is still the LS430 Motortrend had sideways @ Michilen test proving grounds in their A Taste of Tire Testing article. (Great reading btw - should be required to read to drive a car) ;) Grab a rear sway bar if you don't like understeer. I love my whilteline. Never been more careful in the rain hah. Light end is way to easy to get to step out on dry pavement with a wheel flick & lift off oversteer action. Fresh paint, that's a killer. So is the first rain where you wash up all build up on the road. Ew!

Lest there is more than the superficial damage in the picture, then probably not. More so than the wheel, I would be worried about the suspension parts & geometry itself. If you're lucky, the wheel is probably just a little out of balance. I would at least take it off to inspect the inside of the wheel, tire & suspension parts. Don't feel bad, we all slide our cars around at some point too! Case in point, I flipped my protege backwards off a 20' cliff, landed on the trunk & rolled between some trees on the roof. Woot! I still get this ES sideways, but this car only get's a workout on some big gravel roads near some family way out in the country. Gotta be careful, that rear sway bar will bite you in the !Removed! real good if you let it heh.

In no official order: Sticking throttle plate Mis-adjusted throttle cable Worn out dogbone mount To rule out the throttle cable, you can simply grab the throttle itself & rev the engine. The throttle itself can be cleaned by hand with a cleaner & scrub brush. For that matter, it'll run like a brand new engine if you take the entire upper intake air chamber off, clean the inside by hand & clean all the components on it (ISC, EGR valves).

btw take a picture of the reading on the cluster.

A-la Toyota's 1994 Camry Repair Manual It could be either/both. The coils & ignition sensing equipment are ruled out by default, so skip checking them. I would start by replacing the o2 sensor & resetting the ECU (remove EFI fuse a second & replace). You don't have to remove anything to get to either o2 sensor. Tho no one is going to talk you out of taking the upper intake manifold off, cleaning it & it's associated components (Throttlebody, ISC/IAC, EGR valve) by hand (good way to ensure future reliability & regain lost horsepower from carbon build-up).

What you don't want to do is hit the rotor itself. It's not going to help if you break off outside chunks. I'd try a dead blow hammer first, then maybe take a chisel & a sledge & split the rotor where the bolt holes are. I had to do that on my civic the first time around years ago. But that's seriously a last resort to me.

Sounds like you've got weak ignition in some cylinders. A 3vz-fe will run on 2 of 6. Stupid !Removed! OBD-I won't even throw a code. :\ Check the coil, dsitributor's rotor & cap, plugs & wires. On a side note: What's: The cam timing Ignition timing "VS" voltage comming from the air-flow meter (Yellow wire-blue stripe, or cut the top off & check the votlage on the flap arm) with the engine off & the key ON, & with the engine idling what is the voltage on VF1 & VF2 with the engine idling Fuel pressure @ idle Unplug the cold-start injector's electrical connector & see if it goes away Check injector duration (Digital multimeter's dwell function) How bad is the gas smell / fuel vapor. If the cat is bad, or you don't have one, it's going to be like that until the o2 sensors warm up & the engine enters closed loop mode.

If you catch me on AIM, I'll send you the 1994 Camry repair manual. All the major systems are identical. A lot of the sub-systems have minor changes, some are completely different, but normally similar enough to figure things out. Like the dash & cluster is different, but you get to see the ins & outs of taking stuff out & the general idea on how they work). The radio is different, but most of the important wiring for it is the same. Stuff like that.

94lex your interior lighting probably doesn't work either then. Check the DOME fuse in the fusebox. That's where the trunk system get's it's power. Toyota/Lexus is great. They use what? Maybe 30 fuses in the whole car & label them. (They combine a lot of things). The F150 outside has maybe 50 tiny fuses IN ONE BOX, & they're not labeled, just numbered. Stupid domestics... & They wonder why everyone likes imports better LoL! Ya what broke with the odo? Does it not have power, or did youa ctually feel the button break?

The alarm is on a timer. Anytime the doors are locked, or lock themselves, the alarm arms immediately. Hood latch, door locks & trunk are protected. A short while after arming if the doors are unlocked form the inside - it goes off. Only way to turn it off is to take the key & turn the ignition ON, or wait it out. (Key can't stop it, at least mine never would) & lemmie tell ya... When a lexi alarm goes off, it wants everybody to know 'cause it doesn't go out for a long !Removed! time. Anyway, that's how I've understood the alarm to work all the time. The glove box trunk switch turns off the driver's door trunk button. There's a switch to turn the remote key on/off. Anyone got anything else to add? I would hit up some used place for the steeringwheel pad. I honestly can't think of anywhere they would have them for cheap. If you don't have anything locally, TAP recycling has earned a good reputation in the greater Toyota community. (I should get paid by these people... I've repped them a bunch lately. How's about that 22rte for free we're still talking about! LoL!)

Because that doesn't mean the o2 sensors are bad. They become even more innacurate as they age - towards the rich scale for safety, wasting fuel. They also become lazy, slow to respond, and at times they won't respond at all.

O2S11(V): 0.650 - bank 1, sensor 1 (rear bank) O2S12: 0.555 - bank 1, sensor 2 (post-cat) O2S21: 0.650 - bank 2, sensor 1 (front bank)

Ya it's a stretch from the bottom, but less in the way. I've taken my rear out from the top. The trick is moving things like hoses out of the way.