Toysrme

The age old addiage is "Avoid constant engine speeds & high loads". I don't believe in the high loads (See previous posts of mine on break-ins - I believe it helps), but I can see constant engine speeds very early in the life *maybe* being a problem before the first oil change. But I also find that for the most part. That's hard to believe too. It's just so hard to believe any "rule of thumb" or "old school belief" about breaking in any engine. I can't tell you what to believe. I believe that driving it like you stole it is better for the rings, and bearings later on, but I also believe that break-in, as far as engine/transmission mechanics go, is fully completed at the factory - if not completed so much that by the time a car hits the boat, get's to the lot & sits for a week - it's broken in anyways. Do what you want, just change the oil ROTFLMAO!!! If I had a new car. I would drop & clean the oil (Or atleast change it myself) the very day I bought it; along with dropping $20 on an "legit" oil anylisis kit so fast your head would spin. The only way you would ever know anything, is watching the ring, bearing, cam lob & cylinder wall material wear rates drop like a rock past the first oil change as more & more of the original wear stuff is cycled out of the system. Soooo my official opinion is drive it like you stole it. My unofficial opinion is my official stance on oil drain intervals. Short of anylisis, you'll never know & if you're not up to anylisis, then you should just be contempt with whatever tingles your single. That's just me.

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I glad you're enjoying it!

I can't stand K&N filters, or any of that type / marketing. All of the vortex genirators are BS. Sometimes you can make a small differance in the mixture & mixture patterns with a throttle body spacer on a carbed engine. We don't use carbs so...

Paint care is a must regardles! Na, it doesn't make a differance. You can make that front under-tray I posted about a long time it. It won't actually help in the city, but the faster you're driving, you can tell it cuts some drag. Top speed improves measureably. Gas mileage, is miniscule... But with gas $3 instead of $2. Little things like that can add up over a couple of months. I forget if we've been over it, or not. Big wheels... Big no-no if you're *that* strapped for mpg. That wouldn't conern anyone with them tho. Like my grandfather always said, "If you can afford a new tractor, you can afford a new barn to put it in". And my daddy always said, "If you can afford the 4 barrel muscle cars, you can afford the gas, and tires to run them". Wheel mass makes a much larger differance in accelleration, power to sustain, and braking effort that most people care to really look deeply into.

Depends on if they charge the $3 a gallon for good kerosene, or $20 a quart! hahaha

What were the actual results in PPM? (Parts Per Million) Looks good, Toyota v6's of all kinds rarely wear anything important. Boatloads of boring oil anylisis on Bob's forums for Toyota v6's. Try to keep comparisons in the same families. If not specific generation, atleast the same engine family itself. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...;result_start=0 To break it down quickly: *You'll see that mobil 1 is notoriously beating down. *Average life for mobil 1 dino is 7500miles - without any viscosity change & without being in the "addatives are wearing out, it's oil change time". *Mobil 1 synthetics, hello 10,000-12,000 mile + oil drains. See... Toyota/Lexus/Whoever isn't stupid. That old 7,500m oil change isn't a dumb idea, nor oiut of left field too long of an oil interval. Notice all the sludge letters said 10 months / 10,000 miles? That'd be when mobil 1 dino would be in the "We shouldn't wait any longer to change". Synthetics would be just starting to show some addative droppage. And people thought they were stupid with the 7,500m changes & wondered why they would warranty sludging (which I don't believe is an engine problem) out to 10m / 10,000 miles. Breakdown for dummies from Bobistheoilguy.com

Sway bar bushings, strut bushings/mounts, end-links. I always put money on the sway bar bushings first. They're the cheapest & don't take too long for the experianced to change.

It may not have fully punctured. If it's not leaking, or going to leak soon, there isn't a problem. Buy one of those $5 tire repair kits. It'll have a load of tar coated rubber ropeys for patchys A T handle round pointed filey A T handle needle hicky Insert the tar/rubber patch into the needle hicky half way down the length of the tar/rubber patch You pull the <insert inserted object here> out Run the filed up & down the hole to clean the area QUICKLY shove the rubber patch into the hole, and with a sudden motion, jerk the needle hicky out. Tire patched perminantly as perminantly gets, check inflation, resume normal life.

<in all modesty> I single handidly brought seafoam from the toyota truck guys to the toyota car guys. It's use runs rampant.

Cooooooool.

Seafoam, Marvil Mystery Oil, Kerosene/Diesel fuel.

38psi all around (Gen 3 & 4 Camry sprec in Europe for driving 90mph+, or extended highway speeds). New plugs / good ignition. o2 sensors being in good shape. Staying away from heavy wheels. (I.E. aftermarket large diameter, and/or wide wheels.) Decarb the combustion chambers, intake etc. A lot of people swear by a fresh PCV valve. From there fresh fluids can slightly reduce losses. Transmission, differential, powersteering. If possible advancing ignition timing & lean the mixture will help slightly too. From there exhaust upgrades. Y-pipe, headers, cat & cat back may a little too. Short of o2 sensors, nothing can help, or hurt as quick as the driving habits. From years of watching discussions & driving my old one. My official opinion is that any of these v6's getting >23 city / 25 highway are in pretty good shape. Regardless of how new, or old they are.

Maybe the (intake) resonator is loose. I wouldn't think so, but anyone else got anything? Any exhaust leaks?

There's always the old joke. "How many powersteering pumps does it take to run a Camry/ES? Three. One to fail, the second to leak & the third to work!" Ahhhhhh sad, but true.

No problem. Good luck with it. I bet yall just knocked the little spring off that holds the cog in place & it went spinning around abit. No big deal.

It's all about changing it before it turns bad. As long as you do that, it doesn't matter so much. MG with a stock cooling system = God's greatest testimant to the fact that tck changes his coolant. LoL!

Werd on the > $1 regular gas in 1990+ & gas is cheap in Alabama (Relatively). I remember when I was 4-5 & you could always see the old muscle cars & non-road legal racers (Cricle & drag) filling up with av gas at the 76 station. it was $1.05. (86-88). When I first started driving gas was $1.23-$1.35 in the late 90's. I got to college & freaked the *BLEEP* out when it hit $1.70 for 87 !? Thank god for the civic & the rolla...

There are 2 blow-by/crankcase vents. 1) The open breather from the front valve cover to the intake pipe (Between the TB & MAF) 2) The PCV valve on the rear valve cover that feeds the intake manifold directly Unless you run a catch can, filter it, or take the valve cover off & fix the fact that it can suck up trace amounts of oil - you'll always have a bit of oil in the intake manifold. The oil isn't a rael problem, the huge amounts of carbon build-up is a problem. :)

Sounds OK to me. As bad as I'm sure you want to get that thing out of your shop. I would strongly suggest watching the o2 output & drive that car around making some hard, long accelleration runs in 2nd gear. You give a car back to someone that's running lean & you'll kiss that headgasket goodbye all over again. Just shoot for around 830mv (.83v) the o2 sensors at wide open throttle all the way through the redline. You can just plug into the engine bay DTC & run the wires inside the window.

Thinking about it more. I doubt yall moved the arm. If you guys hit it hard enough, you could have made the spring that holds the cog in place move. At which point the cog is under spring tension - it woulda spun like a top. If you look in the closeup of my cog you can see scoring from where it was adjusted at the factory. Why don't you see if there isn't more than 1 scoring mark on your cog.

Well it's good to know we've got too much fuel! :) Now we can concentrate on spark/fuel. NGK 6779's if you want to start with new plugs. $1-2 a pop. No big deal. So the obvious problem, is we have too much fuel dumping into the cylinders. (Or a case of really weak spark.) Test that AFM real quick tomorrow morning, If you want, get hands on with the damn thing. You can manipulate it by hand to open (more fuel) close (less fuel). Either stick your hand in the pipe, or just turn it via the arm. (Make sure it will open all the way smoothely. The ONLY AFM "failure" I have seen myself in real life was because the flap door was sticking). If you look VERY carefully at the cog, you can see that there will likely be scrape marks on it *if* it has been moved. Ya if they broke the AFM loose & actually hit it enough to bend the swing arm in there (You'd have to like.. nearly destroy that black plastic piece, so I doubt it). Ya, that'll throw the entire fuel curve of the engine so ungodly far off it won't be funny. Looks like that. I'll tell you like I tell everyone else. Mark the starting position on the cog, else you're asking for loads of trouble... Only re-tune it after exhausting any else under the sun & verrifying the fact that the AFM is the problem.... Because the AFM cog changes the *entire* fuel curve. Top to bottom. More tension = leaner, Less tension = richer. Don't expect to top the AFM out around 0.03v. That's a boost-only affair. Vacuum can't do it. Concentrate on getting the AFM output on a multi-meter & checking idle, cruise rpm, transitions & WOT. I have to appologize too, I was watching a video of my AFM output. I idle at 2.9-2.7v (Normally 2.85-2.89v) If the AFM output is OK. I would probably check the TPS sensor (Since you have the multi-meter out already). That's the VTA signal. If that's OK, I would jump down into the nitty-gritty of pulling spark plug leads & injector leads & testing the cat / backpressure. (It's easier to me to drop the cat out & run exhaustless than it is drill & bung & weld back together.) Bits of randomness. Fuel filter excess fuel. Nope. I was thinking massively lean / rich. They hardly ever clog (lean). Cold compression values are junk. They'll let you know if it's blown, or not blown, but nothing much relivant past that. (People are just too lazy to take the intake manifold off a second time.) It's freshly rebuild, that !Removed! oughta be over normal spec in the 180's. (psi) o2 sensors wouldn't cause that big of a problem. You spend the first few min in open-loop mode. If you want to test them without pulling out a multi-meter, just disconnect them. That will force open-loop.

So to re-cap, what's the problem? It's running like crap after a few min? You better damn well make sure it's not still overheating. You better re-check the *timing* too. Both ignition & crank/cam timing. Warm it up & check compression. Is it rich? Is it lean? Poor spark? Vacuum leaks are common in this kind of sintuation. Change the fuel filter. Ya... I said it... There's something that I say once a blue moon. New injectors have new springs. It takes them longer to shoot the same amount of fuel. (The old injectors stay open longer on the same pulse width.) They shouldn't have the same pulse length. If they did, they wouldn't be squirting the correct amount of fuel. (btw Damn 2 clogged injectors? It's rare enough to just hear of one!?). Plugged cat 2win! I wouldn't immediately think it's the AFM (MAF = hotwire, AFM = VAFM i.e. Vane Air-flow Meter) at all. They're a low failure rate part, and if someone is adjusting one, you have to adjust it a long way to make anything more than an appreciable change. Does it look like silicon a redneck would use, or does it look like it was silicon somebody at a factory would put on with Japanese loving care? The AFM's are fine-tuned to the engine itself, then the cog is sealed & the idle-bypass screw has an aluminum plug hammered in at the factory so most people won't play with it. Until they get online & figure out they're a dizzy & AFM cog rotation away from turning a 185bhp engine into a 195-200bhp one. (Hence, does it look like it came like that, or does it look like somebody cut the thing off, adjusted it & put it back on?) For the AFM: Read the voltage on the VS wire (Blue wire, yellow stripe), or cut the top of the AFM off. (Slice the silicon & pry the top off carefully) & clamp the multi meter lead to the armature itself. DO NOT pull the connector off the AFM without taking the clip off. YOU WILL rip the traces & pins off the AFM & if you're very lucky you can soldier them back on. Keep in mind EVERY engine will be a little different... Every AFM will be set differently. As a compairison, and my engine is far from stock, but that is as good as you'll get. In park: The key in the ON position gives around 4.1-4.3v The engine IDLING @ 750rpm is around 2.7-2.9v The engine @ WOT, bouncing off the fuel cut is around .2-.3v (Stock average would probably be more like .3-.35) It's a genII Denso AFM, meaning it's a backwards scale (lower voltage = more flow). If you still think it's fuel, you should look at the o2 output on the 2 main sensors also. Normal .45v (.4-.5) at idle. Around that cruising. You want atleast 780-800mv @ wot to be safe. 830 is a sweet spot for power/torque, anything more is factory bloated rich-ness & it's likely running a 10:1 AFR. Anything less could be lean, could be an o2 sensor that's old, & could be an o2 sensor that's not hot enough. (They're un-heated.) Cold-start injector doesn't inject much fuel, I say bypass that idea. You can check the TPS sensor. On other Toyota's of the type & time they're known to go out-of-adjustment. That is nearly unheard-of in the ES/Camry circles (Even tho it's the same part as models where that is a common thing.) 42 is the speed sensor. Those are easy to replace. OBD-I Toyota is unsensative, uncaring & doesn't do anything in diagnostic mode. Good for tuning, bad for troubleshooting. The bright spot is atleast you're working with their most advanced OBD-I system. It has diagnostic mode II. If you set diag mode II, it will trip & store every single out-of-spec issue instantly. That means you'll get the speed sensors b/c you're not moving 6mph, ignition codes b/c ya aint turned the engine on yet, etc. lol But you can set that & drive around for 5-10 min & see what that picks up. *Edit* Wrong idle voltage on the AFM. Eh. Can't remember everything dead on all the time.

Great job! I love people that have good reasoning skills! (Don't matter for you, but maybe someone in the future) Some of the cruise control units have direct control over the transmission solenoid<s>. You ditch the cruise control & the ECU goes haywire thinking the solenoid<s> are malfunctioning. Hah!

After seeing multiple people online, and on ebay getting screwed buying v6's, A/T's, or M/T's getting the bait & switch. (i.e. 3vz-fe to 4vz-fe, 88-91 A540-E to 92-93 A540-E & 94-96 A541-E's, and buying E153 M/T's for a 3vz-fe+ only to get an E152 M/T from a 2vz-fe.) The time has come to find legit sellers, and boycott anyone that won't do otherwise. I've been in contact with *every* active seller on ebay over the last week. Some are pricks, some are whatever - we don't care, and a few are informed, and helpful. The tops for me to deal with so far, for being outstanding to work with, and quick to act of things I have asked them to do are: CNS Motors on ebay. (Andy Lee - 626-452-1153) (Sells US spec engines) (Tops of everyone. Email reply in hours WITH 100% new, specific pictures across the board.) tomsforeignautoparts on ebay / Toms4n.com (Dan) (Sells US spec engines) (Another person that was good to deal with) Other reputable sellers would be: ask4crash on ebay (Jamie) (Import engines) (Admits to selling vz-fe's to 2vz-fe owners, but seems to be polite, and will offer a refund to anyone that his importer sends an unspecified engine too. Says they've never sent, nor seen a 4vz-fe.) FYI, 2vz-fe to vz-fe swap has been extremely common over the years. Unlike the 3vz-fe 4vz-fe fiascoes of the last year, or two. Not up to par (i.e. people I wouldn't personally plunk down hundreds of dollars to) are: motorworks111 on ebay (Major attitude problem/not helpful in the least) ALL v6 dealers have been informed that they need clear pictures of the engines they are selling. Specifically, they need to include pictures of the block casting, and the "cc-displacement" label on the intake manifold. These are "compliant" pictures, sent by CNS Motors for our example purposes: Everyone is free to do what they want, but this really is for the good of the entire community (Not just this site...). So I'm asking everyone to get involved. You never know when you might need a new major component, or want to swap one into something else. Anyone not showing similar pics for *all* Toyota v6's for sale... Anyone not accurately describing a transmission... Don't buy them, and feel free to tell them why you're not buying from them!