Toysrme

Find an 87-91 Camry / ES 250. TAPRecycling.net , or find a local junkyard.

Vacuum leak, or the throttle plate is being held open too far.

The way I look at it. For the cost of a ski-rack you acn buy my Civic hatch, that still get's 40-45mpg & is a royal POS great for hauling things. LoL!

No it doesn't! Atleast it's 1/2 way there.

God I wouldn't The E52/53 swap costs more than running a fully built race automatic transmission LoL! Besides. For less than the cost f the swap you can just buy a 92-93 factory M/T online. They're only worth 3500-4500 to begin with. Miguel change/flush the fluid & adjust the kick-down cable if needed. If it will move in reverse without slipping, but slips in drive. Add another quart of fluid to however much is already in there. You may be reading incorrectly. Sometimes they're just a !Removed! to read & you wind up a quart, or two low. (If you pull the dipstick out & it's foamy. Then you have too much fluid.)

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEW! Nasty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The few ski racks I've seen put in a wind tunnel bring the drag co-effecient of a car to the equivilent of a semi-truck. Mind you the surface area is still small, but the cd's are just crazy.

1 It wasn't installed correctly. You need to ditch it's current ground & give it a real chassie ground. 2 The switch, or relay is likely broken. Pull the door panel off & check it 3 If you search for the antenna's, they've been discussed alot. Replace it, swap a cheaper Camry ant on it, swap an S2000 ant on it, or go to the expencive of shaving it off. 4 It problably is off it's track. Try the stickied FSM - factory service manual. I don't play with sunroofs lol! Or go to a Toyota dealer... 5 Email TAPRecycling.net how much a used one would cost for a 1992-1994 ES 300. They're not that hard to swap. I swapped the same stick & crusie control stalk in a Corolla afew years back. Same thing. I would highly suggest staying up on your regular maintenance. Flushing the coolant out / replacing the thermostat & radiator & intake manifold pressure caps would be a major priority if you don't know the history of the car. (As would be flushing the transmission fluid, and the engine for that matter.)

Get rid of the carbon & clean the EGR valve. You may have a cylinder lean also. The valvetrain is kinda far out there. But yeah, check the timing too, and the o2 sensors. Thats for fixing the knocking. Understand that the code isn't thrown for knocking. It's thrown when the sensor has a short in the loop. Either the wiring, or the sensor is bad. That means pulling the upper manifold off, along with the lower.

This is a 1996 5s-fe Toyota Camry with 114,000 miles. This is after ONE treatement done in the manner I outlined in my previous post. (I.E. following the directions on the can) On old oil right before changing it. This engine spent about the first 100,000 miles of it's life running cheapy oils. The last 14,000 miles run on synthetic. $5 a can - $2.50 of the product used = Results.

Well that is some severly bad luck! It's a multi-layer steel gasket so it shouldn't have blown. It could have overheated & warped the head/block. Could have cracked it too, but that's even less common. If there's lots of colant in there & it won't move. I would bet it's seized up from lack of oil. There's a pretty easy way to find out. Take you a 14mm & get the Y-pipe down. Then take a 10mm & drop the oil pan. That'll let you look at the bottom end.

91 ES 250 91 ES 250 91 ES 250 92 ES 300 92 ES 300 92 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 92 ES 300 92 ES 300 92 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 93 ES 300 Looks like M/T ES's are getting easier to find as people sell them around 15-20 years old.

HBD

For the ES/Windom... There are two sites of any size on the entire internet they are troubleshot on. ClubLexus & Lexus Owners Club. Neither of which have many members. There are two more sites of any size devoted to the actualy Camry platform itself. ToyotaNation & SolaraGuy. How many actual v6 problems do we get a week across all four? A dozen, or two at most with hundreds of thousands of members? How many Corolla forums do I know of? A dozen offhand lmao! Toyota has sold like what? 600,000 Toyota Camry based vehicles in the United States alone annually for like 10 years. Yet these four websites are all you ever see problems posted on????? That's insane reliability. And of all the problems, you tell me. How many of them are maintenance related. How many of them are actually "stuff broken with real problems". And of those, the majority of which are going frankly still going to fall back to either user error, or bad maintenance. Which again, is a user issue LoL! They're not the best cars ever, but the simple truth of the matter is that if you do everything you're suppose to with the car itself & older cars in general. Barring some random failure these things can be driven into the ground & do it longer than you want to keep the car around. & Hey... When you do break them. That's when we shead our Lexus badges & go to the Toyota dealers saying we have a v6 Camry. (Yes, both Lexus, and the ES's have always done very well in the JD Power surveys. You have to spend 2-3x the money to get into cars that even then *may* not out score them depending on the year. For the money they're killer. Always have been if you're looking for entry luxury. That's why noone else competes with them in the luxury end of entry luxury cars. Everyone else has to go sporty LoL!)

Just remember that you're most likely going to be needing more fuel & not less on the AFM cog. ;) Lean is fast, but it aint good LoL!

You'd have to show me a picture of the wires. The breater hose connects post MAF. If the intake is left open at any poitn after the maf, it will throw it off.

Yes, it's OBD-II (Tied for the worlds first OBD-II car - so if you ever go somewhere with lala's saying only 96+. Just humor them & say it's 96+!) I would check for vacuum leaks.

2) You have to put it in a vice to compress it. Honestly if you go real easy, you can use the bolts to get the tensioner on, but you must be careful. You will strip them if you go to far on one side at a time. 1) It's not as good as the wasted spark, or coil on plug ignitions, but yeah. That distributor oughta be able to go alot longer. You really just replace the cap & the rotor on them when they crack, or get out of spec. The distributor itself nearly never needs replacing. Only when the magnetic pickup sensors for camshaft & crankshaft have died. (Not very often.) They're magnetic sensors... All descent magnetic sensors have a very low failure rate regardless of what they're installed. It sounds to me like they're not lined up properly. Make real sure the crankshaft is showing 0*btdc on the gauge & that the cams are dead on. There is a little notch on the valve cover that sort of gives you an idea where the distributor would line up. Remember the distributor does set the base timing, which is adjustable. If you've replaced it, line it up the best you can & if you get the engine running, let it idle a min, or two. Connect TE1 & E1 to put it in diagnostic mode & set the timing to 10*btdc with a timing light. Make SURE those cams are dead on. Pull the valve cover off & align the cams using the actual alignment marks if you have too.

I agree, they're having teething issues with it. It's not out of the ordinary with any completely new car platform. If you don't believe it, go look & see! I do agree it's becomming abit annoying on that car in particular... Find another company that will actually send techs to the car to inspect a new problem & you'll be doing real well.

Aslong as it's not a salvaged title & you check the thing before hand...

Bridge OP1 & E1 in the diagnostics port & make sure the fan spins to high. Replace the thermostat & the other pressure cap. Make sure the radiator is not clogged. Replace the water pump. Do not continue to drive the car while it is overheating, or that head will warp & blow the gasket. Then at most afew hundred buscks is going easily turn into half the car's retail value in repairs.

1gr-fe 2gr-fe 2gr-fse 3gr-fe 3gr-fse 4gr-fse The GR block is Toyota's newest v6 block generation.

Yes, change the existing endlinks & bushings. There's near no change the end links that are on there are going to be very good at that age. I would use some poly bushings. Sorta defeates the purpose of upgrading the sway bar if you're just going to put rubber back on there.

Me too. I saw that on bobs along time ago. :) or something like it.

If it's not a GR block, it's not interferance.

No. It's easier to do if you drop the exhaust pipe. Just be sure to change the end links & grease the bushings well, or it'll be squeaking very soon.