Toysrme

Check the switch. Check the recirculation valve operates.

Quit driving it until you sort it out, or you'll warp a had & blow a head gasket when it overheats. Replace the thermostat, pressure caps & flush the coolant. Make sure the fan operates on high when it should. (Bridge OP1 & E1). Check the water pump & radiator. Get the code for the check engine light.

330's are sorta wierd looking. But murano's are *BLEEP*ing retardid looking. Keep the ES x 3,000%

Bull*BLEEP*.

205/65 R15 3100rpm .735 4th gear 3.933 final drive

Why have I seen this particular question come up a dozen times this month on the ES boards, when there's only two!? LoL! http://www.mysportscar.com/tools/topspeed.htm + specifications

Snapped some quick cellphone pics. Quality sucks, so deal with it. LMAO! I'm missing some machines. Especially the non welding ones. We have several press brakes, benders, acouple of mills, a lathe, two large vertical bandsaws. Lotta stuff in the CNC shop too. Just finished getting approval for another 5-7 350MP's, 15 laptops, and a $178,000+ water jet cutter + the software & computers to run it. I pimp this. (I know I've said it before LoL!)

Probably mis-understood you & thought you meant 2007.

Vacuum gauge for the win. :) The biggest, "should own, but never used" car tool ever. Even professional mechanics have quit with the vacuum gauges.

Rip the stock *BLEEP* out & go aftermarket. <oops> LoL!

Well... RX = Highlander Highlander = Camry paltform. You could always get a set of Camry v6 / ES, and a set of Avalon aftermarket sways & see if they fit. Not sure if they would, but that's the best shot. Sienna van ones are Camry... They have a Japanese aftermarket, but IDK about anything else USA wise for them.

Everything is the same minus labor & parts cost from an actual Lexus dealer out of warranty. Their costs average the same as any other marquee name. Atleast $90/h. Many good brand dealers (Nissan, Toyota, Such higher quality cars) are beginning to charge such rates also.

Because a failed valve stem seal will drain all the oil out while it's running. In this case, the valve lobes at through the vale shims, and on the offending bvalve that went thrgouh that piston. It ate through the bucket, the valve stem, and finally the retainers. Dropping dothe valve into the cylinder. There's a differance in a cracked valve stem seal, and a failed valve stem seal. When there's nothing left, the oil simply circulates down into the intake, through the engine all the time.

How he says it'll be a problem. no. It being a problem, yes. What's his name's 1mz-fe was completely destroyed from a valve stem seal completely failing to seal. I oughta know. He was nice enough to send me the piston & rod from that engine! Monitor oil levels & you should have a valve adjustment don't like every 75-90,000 miles anyways. Just nobody ever does it. (Adjusting the valves would be the time to change the valve stem seals. It's still alot more work, but you get half the labor done already so.)

Agreed. Drain it & re-fill it. Think about changing your spark plugs. You never know what those idiots do. Mad props for atleast sounding like you thought about doing it yourself. Not only is having a !Removed! not a requirement. But chicks that can do basic maitnenance are *BLEEP*ing hot! Trust me. :P

Pretty much indeffinately. We lack design / mechanical problems so. Pretty much just whenever the clutch material finally wears out, or the bands give way & the bands are pretty relatively big so. We don't really ahve problems with the bands. So really... Just keep ontop of it & they'll last an un-answerable amount of time LoL! There were 2-3 v6 3rd gen Camry's (92-96) on toyotanation a couple of years ago that ahd eclipsed 300,000m without being touched so... Good job on the fluid!

What type of fluid did you use? Drive the car around (If possible without it slipping) until the fluid is warm, park, shift to all gears & read the dipstick while it idles. What is the current fluid level? (It must be checked warm & running.) Does the throttle valve cable feel like it has slack in it?

The sunroof seal is designed to leak. Inside the tract where you can't see, there is a drain hole in each corner that drains under the car. When the drains clog up, water spills over the tract into the car. Blow the holes out with 20-40psi of compressed air. You'll be fine. (Even if the seal is almost completely rotted away.)

Strut tower braces are bull*BLEEP*. The generally interffer in some manner with the upper intake air chamber, nor will you ever find one strong enoh to actually improve anything. It's all flexible *BLEEP*ty materials, and on the very rare occation you find one strong enough, it still uses flexible sections, and if you were to just hard-weld a bar on there. It not only costs you weight, but they don't move that damned much tobegin with! We do not have front, or rear tower braces. We do have front & rear sway bars (Anti-roll bars, same thing by any other name right?). 1st: Upgrade the rear sway bar, if you own a non 92-96 car, think about upgrading the front sway bar also as it's smaller. Searched, u ahve a '96. So stock front sways bars are plenty good enoguh 2nd: Upgrade the springs & struts to more aggressive models 3rd: 215mm tires will provide the maximum balance of grip & transient responce. Wider will increase grip & slow transition & vice-versa for tires of less width. Your stock is 205/65 R-15 http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Will show the "compatible" sizing to not throw off your speedo/odo. That's for handling. You can adjust the transmission a small amount via the throttle valve cable. Do so! Get a new y-pipe for the engine! High-flow cat helps even more. The Camry SE had the hidden option of a shorter differential gearing. You could always do that if u can find them, but that also trades off things... The car can be made lighter. Ditch anything you don't need. Spare tire (please atleast keep an inflator & patch kit). Passanger seat. Rear seat is just foam so it's not really that important. Some 1mz-fe's from that era have oversensative knock sensors. If yours are, relocate them. Run 89-94 octane gas to appease them. around 20-25psi front is pretty much the best for traction, but don't drive at such a low level. The thing with tower braces, is that if they're good they will do something. The problem with them is that they do so little, it's literaly like getting that last few percent of an upgrade after you've done *everything* else. Oh! Change your powersteering, transmission & differential fluids. Hawk HPS brake pads up front Brembo Blank rotors Dot 4 fluid. Auto-x'ing really isn't as hard on the car as some people like to thing. It's not as stressfull as going on a real race track & they normally only last 2 minutes at a time max. So... Just good pads & fresh dot4 fluid & you won't even have a hint of brake fading.

Yup. Make sure the needle isn't sticking!

Impossible to be the injectors. The ES uses the 2gr-fe which has different heads / etc and no direct injection. It's also about 50lbs lighter becuase of that. I still think it's the valvetrain. Like, the roller rocker setup they're using now. Cause that's the only real fundimental change & you know they didn't just make like a million of these engines only to have that many of them have incorrectly adjusted valves from the factory lol! Eventually someone is just going to ahve to buy a $2-3 mechanics stethescope & figure it out.

Download the repair manual, or check your car manal. It's the only other stalk on there for you to turn!

Until the plastic breaks off. Then you use something along the size of a 5/16ths socket if I remember mine right. Park on level ground 20' from a wall. Measure the distance from theground to the imprinted dot on the lenses infront of your low beam projector (in the middle of the projector). Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the cut-off. It should not be perfectly flat (Center of the beam at the same height). You want them pointed down somewhat. Projectors give more intense light nearer their greatest light distrobution. Tho with the stock halogen lighting, the light drops off from the center on out fairly quickly. A hair quicker than the Camry's Reflective housing in my opinion. Grab a set of $5-7 9005 Sylvania bulbs, melt, filt, or grind the one offending tap off so you can insert them into the 9006 low beam socket. 9005/h3's lack the black reflective coating to reduce glare on the tip. (Not needed), and they produce 1700 lumen instead of 1000 lumen of output compaired to 9006/h4 (Normal low-beam) What translates into is about a 15-20% light gain across the board. It's not signifigant... But it is a noticeable improvement. And that basically means after a year's runtime, you've still got about the same loutput as a brand new 9006 would have. Ofcorse compaired to D2S HID's @ 35w, they give 3200 lumen. And at 50w they give 5,200 lumen. :) I love me's some HID's LoL!!!!!!!!!!!

The high & low beams do run together. With stock wiring, the fog lights only operate with the low beams, tho a tiny re-work on the wiring to the relay solves that.

Just tell people that ride with you you dropped a 350 in it & it's just all the torque steer you have now.