Toysrme

I'd buy the 430. But I'd buy it purely because it has the 3uz-fe v8 in it begging for management, drivetrian upgrades & some forced induction.

They won't do anything unless the engine fails, and the extended warranty on them is nearing an end. Just start flushing the oil system. Diesel fuel is king for speed. I'd say seafoam, or something like an old stand-by like marvel myster oil. Just do afew flushes. You'll clean it right up & be better than new. I've posted directions before. Diesel is the cheapest & works the fastest (Which means it's the best in my book, since it's that much sooner till restored oil-flow if it's bad.). Just heed the specific direction of letting it ONLY idle (no revving, no driving) if you do it. If you go to a Toyota/lexus dealer. Most of them I know just buy cans of BG & stuff that in there for a flush. So don't think for an isntant that any mechanic, or dealer has some super special flushing machine that'll clean it out. :) Just flush it afew times. You'll be fine & dandy.

Just aslong as you get rid of the old crap I don't care. I've done asmany transmission flushes using the cooler lines as I have drain & fills during oil changes. Personally. On mine I flush them & go 2-3 years doing pan drains during oil changes before I flush them again.

Change the power steering & alt belts, or atleast add tension to them. It's time for a timing belt & water pump if you didn't do them @ 60,000 miles.

It's the fluid pick-up. Its reffered to a filter because it has a pick-up screen.

What fluid did they put in it? TT-IV or Dexron-III. You should have dexron. Not going into gear in a timely fashion is normally indicative of low fluid pressure. Which is almost always caused by a low fluid level. Let it idle to warm in park, shift to all gears & while idling check the level. It oughta be up to the top hot mark if it's on real level ground. If it *is* at the top hot mark. Dran the pan & refill it with 4 quarts of fluid.

Thank you for admitting import superiority. They'll be worth a hell of alot more than Impalas are... They only made 13 million *BLEEP*ing Impalas lmao! Blah blah blah - blah blah, blah blah Stock Supras, and MR2 can both crank out 11-12s 1/4 mile times. Yet turn, stop & get descent gas mileage all at the same time. All while increasing in value. Especially for Supras over the last 5 yers. Ouch at early Mk-IV costs. Yeesh. So who cares? lol

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/art.../0-60times.html Minus a buick grand national. Muscle cars are slow crap without extensive drive-train modifications. v6 Altima/Maxima's with $300 in mods are as fast as most mustang / Trans-camero's ever built, handle atleast as well, have 4 doors & get twice the gas mileage all around. http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/11...t-corvette.html So some of the best avalible in the muscle car years: .65g of cornering force High 13 second 1/4 miles Tisk tisk tisk at old american cars.

Not really. Dry fill - 6.75 liters (7.10 US qts, 5.94 Imp.qts) Drain and refill - 2.5 liters (2.6 US qts, 2.2 Imp.qts) Differential oil - 0.85 liters (0.89 US qts, 0.75 Imp.qts) All Dexron-III It says 2.6qts. But I think that's a bit wrong. I think they're measuring just the pan capacity & not including what will drain back out of the valve body & dump to some extint. 'cause I get more around 3 quarts out most of the time than 2 1/2. So it's a 7 qt system. It'd take 3 drain & fills & shift to all positions & drive around abit & park & shift to all positions again to statistically change the majority of the fluid. Which is close enough. To me, it just takes little time to flush one using the cooler lines instead of doing that 2-3-4+ times. So I do it that way.

You do realize there is a 10mm allen bolt on the bottom of the pan that facilitates the same thing, but much faster right?

Nice piccy. I didn't realize they moved the ES to a 3 spoke wheel too. And for no reason other than to horrify everyone. I just saw a post on Toyotanation showing an '06 4 cylinder SE Camry optioned out to $37,000, winding up over 40K. Crazy *BLEEP*.

Calculate the mpg. The miles per whever you are in the tank gauge is meaningless. Hell they keep 2-2.5 gallons of fuel past empty to begin with. That's like... Another 40-70 miles till *really empty. But in your case. I would definately check the responciveness of your o2 sensors. They'll be worthless @ 225,000m if they've never been changed.

Backfiring is a taletail sign of running signifigantly lean. Check that there are no vacuum leaks, and that the entire fuel system is A-OK. Top to bottom. You will destroy the engine when it backfires if it runs to another cylinder & causes a massive detonation in that cylinder. It'll shove the piston down while it's coming up with no place to go. Shattering a piston, or snapping a rod, or wrist pin like a twig. It's critical that you solve that. You should also check the cam timing while you're at it.

Your transmission has 5 solenoids. Ours has 3. And yes, the Napa ones are surprizingly MUCH higher quality. The wiring is much thicker, the harness is heat shrinked better, the solenoids actually incorperate a large hold-down bar. They're prettier... I kid. But yeah.

If you can drop the valve body yourself, pull the solenoid off & put it back together. About $125-150 with a PAIR of solenoids from NAPA. (Which are much higher quality than the OEM parts btw.) Otherwise about $300 bucks.

Tell them to get a *BLEEP*ing oil seal off a Toyota Camry.

That's normal. Lance the WARM idle for the car is 750rpm. +/- 100rpm.

2 gallons in reserve from empty. It's an 18.5 gallon tank.

It's a torque convertor. Aslong as it's not locked, you don't do anything to stop, or go. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm Automatics are superior to manuals in any way you want to view it when they're setup properly. Don't start. That's another discussion.

We can't help you. You don't have a refferance point to what kind of gas mileage you are getting... It's an 18.5 gallon tank. Fill the tank up. Drive it till it reads the empty mark & fill it up again. Divide miles driven by gallons it takes to fill the tank.

What you do is take a long object & use it as a lever against something strong (Say like a suspension arm). Loosen the adjustment bolt, lever some good tension on the powersteering pump to really pull it pretty good. Hold it in plce & tighten the bolt. It's alittlebit of a pain, but that's pretty much how you do it.

Probably dropped a shift solenoid. Check the codes.

Because P0171 is bank-1 too lean. You shoulda started by checking the bank1 (Rear bank) o2 sensor.

Background: Automatics are awesome. While the older automatics do a phenomenal job matching the shift pattern to the powerband when accelerating. You can find yourself wishing for a different gear at part throttle. Say flying through the entry of afew corners. Low does fine for first gear. 2 can still downshift to 1st, and there is no way to hold third, or fourth. Annoying... So let's make this thing our !Removed! without spending hundreds on a transmission controller! Theory: If we can control the shift pattern. Our cars will have s*x with us. Instructions: We'll need about $15-$20usd in basic electronic hardware. 1 6-position, double pole rotary switch 1 push button switch 1 DPDT Relay 3 15ohm 25 watt resistors 4 SPST Relays Around 10-15' of wiring (I used 20gauge) For this example. We'll be using a 3vz-fe. For later transmissions, please check & understand that there may be an extra solenoid, or two that control other features. Most importantly the line-pressure. I wouldn't personally do this if your line-pressure is controlled by a solenoid instead of a throttle cable. Shift Solenoid 1 = E10 (S1) Shift Solenoid 2 = E9 (S2) Torque Convertor Lock-Up Solenoid = E8 (SL) Here is the shift pattern for S1 & S2 that derive the four gear ratios of the A540e transmission: What we are going to do is change the wiring to the shift solenoids the control the gear selection (in drive) of the transmission. We are going to re-route the stock wiring through a DPDT relay (AKA Primary relay). When the relay is normally closed, they will pass the ECU signal as normal. When they are opened (powered). The relay will switch the circuit through a 15ohm 25 watt resistor to chassis ground. This will satisfy the stock ECU's desire to always see a 15ohm load from the solenoids. From this point. The SPST relays (Secondary relays) will be spliced into the solenoid wiring AFTER the primary relay. When the relay is in the closed position, there will be no current to the solenoid. When the relay is tripped, it will supply the solenoid with current from a 12v supply from the common rail. **************************************** For the torque convertor, we will splice one SPST relay(primary relay) onto the SL torque convertor lock-up. Normally Closed will pass the ECU signal as normal. Open will send the ECU's current through the remaining 15ohm 25watt resistor on it's way to chassis ground. Our last SPST relay (secondary relay) will connect as the others. Spliced in AFTER the previous relay. Open will connect a 12v supply from the common rail to the solenoid. **************************************** I suggest the torque convertor secondary relay to be connected through a normal push-button switch, or toggle switch. **************************************** **************************************** The primary relay's coil supply should be put together & routed to the switch area. Route a wire from each of your secondary relay's coil to your switch area. You should have four wires. A line from S1, S2, SL, and the two first relays. **************************************** Now for wiring our shift circuit! Our 6-pole switch has 6 positions, and 14 connections. 2 connections will stand in the middle (Connect both of these together to a suitable 12v power supply.) The remaining 12 connectors ring around the switch. This is a double pole switch, so on any of our 6 positions, it will connect to two of the connectors. (Specifically, opposite sides.) You can wire, to any way you wish. I chose: Position 1 = Drive (normal ECU) Position 2 = 1st gear Position 3 = 2nd gear Position 4 = 3rd gear Position 5 = 4th gear Position 6 = Drive (normal ECU) To do this, from your starting position: Empty, opposite empty Connect to S1 (solenoid 1) and first relays, opposite empty Connect to S1 and first relays, opposite connect to S2 (solenoid 2) Connect to first relays, opposite connect to S2 Connect to first relays, opposite empty Empty, opposite empty You can obviously do your own variants. Such as one position holding a gear, and locking the convertor. I would keep it a separate function myself... **************************************** **************************************** Ta-da! We now have the ability to successfully bypass the stock control whenever we want, and select any gear we want (Including normal Automatic features), and at the same time controlling the torque converter lock-up how we want. Anytime the 6-pole switch is in positions 2-5. The Primary relays will swap the ECU to see ground. And the secondary shift solenoids will be operated in the manner of gear selection. The Torque convertor will operate at-will of your switch. ****************************************

Do a compression test to make sure you haven't blown a head gasket.