Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by capnfred

  1. If the abs lite is on pull the code, it will tell exactly what is not right.....good luck
  2. If your handy enough to replace the components, you can get the vacuum pump from Autozone and the guages....then its a matter of cleaning it out, triple evacuating it.. sucking in the oil... adding the gas... and your good to go...
  3. thanks for the help, I did find a diagram on Alldata.... combined with yours it should giter done
  4. bad connection .... disconnect the battery, remove the connections on the alt and battery, clean them nice and shiny... reassembe and your probably good to go.
  5. If it will start then immediately die, check the connector to the MAF...take it off and put it back on... that mite make it....if not that.. then need more info. good luck capn
  6. That is an emphatic NO!, once its been compressed it cannot be reused,,, you can try it if you like but the integrity of the gasket has been compromised... been turning wrenches over 55 years professionally and as hobby...it mite work just fine but it mite not.... not worth the risk..... capn
  7. check the AC relay under the hood... burned contacts, do a search on the forums for the AC relay.. there is generic repalcement available from the auto houses.. or take it apart and clean the contacts.... you should be good to go. capn
  8. The A/C problem is probably the AC relay....well known problem with the toyota family.....do a search on AC relay... you can buy it from Toyota, or get a generic one from autoparts houses....or if your inclined, open it and polish the contacts with your ladies emory board...as for the door, that too is an easy one.. the linkage between the outside door handle and the lock mech has come from together, this one takes a bit more work... but its still pretty easy. I will give you a step by step... 1. lower the offending doors window about 3-4 inches 2. disconnect the neg. term of the battery 3. remove the door trim, unplug the connectors on the back of the door 4. remove the door speaker 5. remove the 3 screws holding the inside door handle to the door 6. remove the dust cover from the door 7. remove the screw securing the weather strip to the back of the door 8. remove the weather strip across the top of door 9. remove the three 10 mm bolts that attach the window regulator to the window glass 10. carefully remove the window glass from the door by working the glass up and towards the rear of the car 11. look at the linkage that should be connected to door handle 12. replace the broken piece of plastic with a new one or like I did use a tie wrap (cable tie) 13. make sure the door unlocks from the outside, then reassemble the above..... It sounds hard, but its easy, just lots of stuff you have to remove. I will be replacing the window regulator on my 95 soon, and can take some pics of the various things and post them if you like I have now idea how much the little plastic bit is, but lately little plastic bits have been rediculously expensive for what they are... a plastic spacer for my ranger tranny shift lever was over 140.00 from Ol. Henry....BTW it works just fine without it...LOL, if you have any questions feel free to pm me... or post them here good luck.... its a lot of little detail things... but its not really hard... the only tools you need is a 10mm socket, a phillips head screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver, a bit of patience and about an hour .... go for it ... here is the part no. for the plastic clip 69293-12040.
  9. Does anyone know of or have a copy of the wiring diagrams for a 95 ES, I have the 93, and the 97, and unfortunately there are too many differences between the 93 and 95.... thanks I am trying to figure out if the combination meter (instrument panel ) from a 93 will work..... they have different part numbers but other than an additional indicator (headlights on ) everything else seems to be the same..... the ckts are a bit different electronically, but I believe functionally they are the same.. any help is appreciated.. capn
  10. Nice turtorial. where did you get the FSM's, I have one for a 97, but there are too many differences...... thanks capn
  11. Lou the radiator is relatively easy to replace, disconnect the ground connector from the battery, remove the splash shields under the front of the car, drain the coolant by removing the radiator cap, then opening the drain valve on the left bottom of the radiator, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, disconnect the lines from the Automatic Trans to the bottom of the radiator, disconnect the hydraulic lines to the fan, remove the to clamps on the top of the radiator, remove the radiator, while you have it out, clean everything nice and shiny, (makes it easier to put together) reverse the process to install it.... if you plan on keeping the car see if you can find a metal radiator.....if not then go with the plastic.... good luck, hope this helps capn
  12. Interesting concept, will try that, I replaced the harness on my 93, but still get the error will try and jump the two and see what happens.. since the sensors are high impedance devices it should not affect the ecu.... thanks will let you know the results... btw on the 93 the two sensors are connected by only one connector.... thanks again capn
  13. nope no mods, have been driving the car this weekend, and no blown fuse..... so will continue to follow the quest.... thanks for the response, any others are appreciated... capn
  14. Good evening, the gauge fuse (10 amp) is blowing intermittently, because the fuse feeds a plethora of ckts, I am hoping someone else has had a similar situation. This is a 93 ES-300....if know one knows of a similar problem, I will have to do it by the process of elimination....fortuneately many of the ckts that it feeds are relays... so by removing them one at a time maybe I can isolate the problem.... or maybe one day it will metamorph to a constant problem... which will be much easier to find.... as we all know the intermittent problems are the bane of the technician.... LOL.... anyway any comments are appreciated and will be read with interest... capn
  15. godzillatreat, if you use an o2 sim, what will happen if there really is a problem with the engine,,,,does not the o2 sensor tell the ecu whether or not the engine is lean or rich... I understand using a sim if you bypass or remove the cat... but doesn't the puter need the o2 sensor input to determine the mixture... correct me if i am wrong... thanks... capn
  16. I don't know of any hoses that are designed to be left disconnected, you picture is a bit dark, so I am not sure which hose it is,,, can you redo the pic a bit lighter..... good luck
  17. Does anyone know how to extend the range on the 2nd gen es keyfob... according to the owners manual and based on experience its about 1 meter... 3 feet....so the only thing the remote opener does is save the paint in the vicinity of the lock.... I thought about a different antenna for the rf portion of the opener...... capn
  18. My 93 had a similar leak, it turned out to be the hydraulic fan motor, I don't know if the third gen es used the same hyd. fan for the cooling,, but mine had a very small leak......I was able to repair it by removing the hyd. motor, disassembling it, and replacing the o-ring.....as a temp. fix I used some "red gasket" sealer with the old o-ring... making sure that none of the goop interferes with the rotor on the motor,,,, have had absolutely no leaks since then, so I will probably not take it back apart to install a new o-ring.... while I had the fan assembly out I cleaned everything !Removed! an span..... no more leak...... yeaaaaaaa capn
  19. I agree with everything said, IMO the ebay seller is at fault, and has sold you a defective radio. I would contact the seller, see if he can get you the access code.. if he cannot then he should refund your purchase price and any shipping expenses you incur to get the radio back to him. You also can contact ebay for relief.... good luck Capn
  20. The flashing light indicates that the AC ECU has stored a fault, enter into the diagnostics and see what the system thinks is wrong with it.... if you don't have an FSM (factory service manual), (and if your going to do your own maintenance you should have one.) The next best thing is alldata... this is an online service, some public libraries have access to this....once you know the fault code you can troubleshoot the system..... I don't know about your series, mine is an 93, but all the controls for the climate control system are under the dash... as for the tach indicating that the compressor is running, well the fine Toyota engineers have the engine control system compensate for the added load and if all is running well the engine should not change speed when the compressor engages...at least mine does not....there are many sensors that the climate control ecu uses to determine if the compressor clutch is engaged or not, and it could be any of them.... so bottom line is that if the run of the mill AC tech works on your car he may end up mis-diagnosing the problem, or could even damage your system..... the Toyota AC system has a few quirks that are unique to them.... and they could mislead the uninformed..... so be careful who you let work on your car, this does not neccesarily mean that your only choice is the dealer, it just means that the technician that you choose should be intimately experienced with computer controlled AC systems.....so enough said,,, good luck.... hope its not a major problem. capn
  21. When you say the radio has now power, is there no display, or does it come on but not have any sound? As for the wiring diagram, check the pinned post at the top of the forum, download the fsm for the es and look at how the antenna is wired, the control for the hands free is a relay that shuts off the right side door speaker only, the rest of the speakers should continue to work....the antenna should not effect the power to the radio at all.... in fact the antenna gets its power from the radio ckt. Hope this helps... capn
  22. Check your local public library to see if they have Alldata, the county system here has access to it in lieu of paper manuals. The only downside is you have to physically be at the Lib. to access it, can't do it online. Good luck capn.
  23. Did the car originally come with a cd player?, If so then its pretty straightforward, find the slit cut in the trunk liner on the drivers side, under the carpet there should be two threded holes in the bed of the trunk, also on the side of the car there is a hole that the stud on the mounting hardware goes through. Mine did not come with a CD player, so I had to run the control and audio lines from the radio to the trunk..... used a harness from a junker, and ran the wires....works great...I could have gone with a newer aftermarket radio, but I wanted to keep the car as original as I can.... good luck Capn
  24. Taking out the rear seat is not difficult,, not sure if its neccessary or not, jack up the car, remove the wheel, find the sensor and follow the wire to see where it goes, somewhere along the way there will be a connector it may be in the wheel well, or it may be behind the seat, or even under some trim panel. There is a chance that the sensor design on the '00 is the same as it is for mine, if it is you can save some serious $$$$ by going to a junk yard. Reember that under all the glamour the es is still just a Camry.. Capn
  • Create New...