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About kluthage421

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  1. I have changed mine every 30k including the filter ($30) and just recently switched to Amsoil Synthetic ATF, which made my transmission noticeably smoother. Make sure to drop the pan, try to put it in a solvent tank and clean off the magnets. Put on a new gasket with the proper adhesive and your good to go.
  2. I've reached 143 on the road with my 2000. At that point the air force is too much for the engine.
  3. All I have to say is you are awesome and I will be ordering the cluster....Today! Thank you. Although the car is an automatic, it is very important to monitor your RPMs. A mechanic laughed when I told him it was broken and asked why I needed it. If this works, this thread should be "stickyed" at the top. Found one on eBay for $50 after shipping ~80)
  4. Yours goes halfway? I see we have a different model year. The 2000 operates differently.
  5. I bought the parts myself for $175 including water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulley, cam and crankshaft seals and had Pennzoil put it all on for $250. Cheapest place for parts is or here:
  6. I just wanted to add a few thoughts to this forum. First, I just put a complete timing belt kit (timing, serpentine, water pump, pulleys, crank/cam seals) on at 113.5k. The belts looked good. It was 23k past the recommended interval. Also, once the sunroof fully opens, if you push the open button again it will go back another 1/2 inch. Not much, but why not enjoy as much spring as possible ~80)
  7. Hi were you successful in fixing the rpm guage? I have the same problem on my 98 es300. RPM is completely at 0 so it seems to be electrical but not completely sure. No. I have not had time. I seem to have forgotten about it but, when spring rolls around every little annoyance is going to be fixed.
  8. I had the Bridgestone Potenza RE960's before the Continental ExtremeContact DW's I just fitted and the Conti's are better. Check out the charts from Tire Rack: The Conti's stop 23 feet shorter in wet, over 7 feet shorter dry, and pull .11 G's more in the wet...Stopping distance is a huge seller for me because it can mean the difference between an accident and a close call. I hit 110 in them already and they are smooth and hitting the apex of turns is very easy. Somehow
  9. Hello, I just wanted to add some information to the wonderful forum database. I put some 225/55/16 Continental ExtremeContact DW's on my '00 ES300 today and took them out for a rather spirited drive and I must say they are awesome. I can't get the traction control to come on unless on gravel or wet road, they are smooth and quiet, and the stopping distance is amazing. I had the gas FLOORED around a cloverleaf and the back end came out just slightly. I also have KYB GR2's on which might help a bit ~;0) I was moderately concerned about rubbing but they fit just fine. They are classified as an M
  10. Yes, the main connectors. I checked to make sure they were all connected properly an cleaned the contacts.
  11. Ohm out the windings? I found a YouTube video of a guy doing it on an air compressor.
  12. Just wanted to say it has been 8400 miles since my last oil change in my 2000 ES and no problems at all. I always clean it out with sea foam for 250 miles before an oil change with AMSoil and regularly push the car to high rpms. She does 140mph just fine ~80) 103k on her now and running smoothly. The entire throttle body has been cleaned, sea foam in the PCV valve, brake booster hose and gas tank regularly. I am going to change the oil today to see how everything looks. Didn't mean for it to go this long. I might open the crank case to check out everything. Good week to all...
  13. Whoops! Sorry about that. It is a 2000. Thank you!
  14. Hello, Thank you in advance for any help. I was driving the other day and my tachometer stopping working all of a sudden. I have removed the entire gauge cluster to check the contacts--no luck. I don't think there is an individual fuse for tachometer. All other gauges work just fine. I'd rather not pay $500 for a new gauge cluster. Is there a sensor that determines the RPM's? Thank you. Bryan
  15. Yes, that's correct Jack the car, remove the tire, unsrew the bolt that holds the sensor, follow the wire and the connector is behind the backside of the seat. Disconnect the connector then tie a string to the connector, slide it out through the hole by pulling it down and out. Then tie the new wire at the connector plug and pull gently through the hole and connect in Reversed manner. After installation you need to reset code, using paper clip at diagnostic panel and ignition key, follow your manual for instruction or simply using a scanner tool (OBD2) code reader. Same as the 1999 up to 2001
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