capnfred

If the abs lite is on pull the code, it will tell exactly what is not right.....good luck

If your handy enough to replace the components, you can get the vacuum pump from Autozone and the guages....then its a matter of cleaning it out, triple evacuating it.. sucking in the oil... adding the gas... and your good to go...

thanks for the help, I did find a diagram on Alldata.... combined with yours it should giter done

bad connection .... disconnect the battery, remove the connections on the alt and battery, clean them nice and shiny... reassembe and your probably good to go.

If it will start then immediately die, check the connector to the MAF...take it off and put it back on... that mite make it....if not that.. then need more info. good luck capn

That is an emphatic NO!, once its been compressed it cannot be reused,,, you can try it if you like but the integrity of the gasket has been compromised... been turning wrenches over 55 years professionally and as hobby...it mite work just fine but it mite not.... not worth the risk..... capn

How much did toyota want for it... thanks

check the AC relay under the hood... burned contacts, do a search on the forums for the AC relay.. there is generic repalcement available from the auto houses.. or take it apart and clean the contacts.... you should be good to go. capn

The A/C problem is probably the AC relay....well known problem with the toyota family.....do a search on AC relay... you can buy it from Toyota, or get a generic one from autoparts houses....or if your inclined, open it and polish the contacts with your ladies emory board...as for the door, that too is an easy one.. the linkage between the outside door handle and the lock mech has come from together, this one takes a bit more work... but its still pretty easy. I will give you a step by step... 1. lower the offending doors window about 3-4 inches 2. disconnect the neg. term of the battery 3. remove the door trim, unplug the connectors on the back of the door 4. remove the door speaker 5. remove the 3 screws holding the inside door handle to the door 6. remove the dust cover from the door 7. remove the screw securing the weather strip to the back of the door 8. remove the weather strip across the top of door 9. remove the three 10 mm bolts that attach the window regulator to the window glass 10. carefully remove the window glass from the door by working the glass up and towards the rear of the car 11. look at the linkage that should be connected to door handle 12. replace the broken piece of plastic with a new one or like I did use a tie wrap (cable tie) 13. make sure the door unlocks from the outside, then reassemble the above..... It sounds hard, but its easy, just lots of stuff you have to remove. I will be replacing the window regulator on my 95 soon, and can take some pics of the various things and post them if you like I have now idea how much the little plastic bit is, but lately little plastic bits have been rediculously expensive for what they are... a plastic spacer for my ranger tranny shift lever was over 140.00 from Ol. Henry....BTW it works just fine without it...LOL, if you have any questions feel free to pm me... or post them here good luck.... its a lot of little detail things... but its not really hard... the only tools you need is a 10mm socket, a phillips head screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver, a bit of patience and about an hour .... go for it ... here is the part no. for the plastic clip 69293-12040.

Does anyone know of or have a copy of the wiring diagrams for a 95 ES, I have the 93, and the 97, and unfortunately there are too many differences between the 93 and 95.... thanks I am trying to figure out if the combination meter (instrument panel ) from a 93 will work..... they have different part numbers but other than an additional indicator (headlights on ) everything else seems to be the same..... the ckts are a bit different electronically, but I believe functionally they are the same.. any help is appreciated.. capn

Nice turtorial. where did you get the FSM's, I have one for a 97, but there are too many differences...... thanks capn

Lou the radiator is relatively easy to replace, disconnect the ground connector from the battery, remove the splash shields under the front of the car, drain the coolant by removing the radiator cap, then opening the drain valve on the left bottom of the radiator, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, disconnect the lines from the Automatic Trans to the bottom of the radiator, disconnect the hydraulic lines to the fan, remove the to clamps on the top of the radiator, remove the radiator, while you have it out, clean everything nice and shiny, (makes it easier to put together) reverse the process to install it.... if you plan on keeping the car see if you can find a metal radiator.....if not then go with the plastic.... good luck, hope this helps capn

Interesting concept, will try that, I replaced the harness on my 93, but still get the error will try and jump the two and see what happens.. since the sensors are high impedance devices it should not affect the ecu.... thanks will let you know the results... btw on the 93 the two sensors are connected by only one connector.... thanks again capn

nope no mods, have been driving the car this weekend, and no blown fuse..... so will continue to follow the quest.... thanks for the response, any others are appreciated... capn

Good evening, the gauge fuse (10 amp) is blowing intermittently, because the fuse feeds a plethora of ckts, I am hoping someone else has had a similar situation. This is a 93 ES-300....if know one knows of a similar problem, I will have to do it by the process of elimination....fortuneately many of the ckts that it feeds are relays... so by removing them one at a time maybe I can isolate the problem.... or maybe one day it will metamorph to a constant problem... which will be much easier to find.... as we all know the intermittent problems are the bane of the technician.... LOL.... anyway any comments are appreciated and will be read with interest... capn