BA_GS400

Got a minute? My friend and I started the installation around 4:20pm and ended around 8:45pm. That includes reading of instructions, taking our time, before and after pictures and a test drive. :) We didn’t encounter any real difficulties at all really. It was actually fairly straight-forward, but then again, we’ve both worked on our own cars for many years. Also, there was no need to remove the caliper, as the manual suggests. (we didn’t do it) We *did* use a quality set of ‘outside-the-spring’ style of spring-compressor, but, we did not use a special tool for the upper A-arm/ball joint separation from the steering knuckle. Don’t cringe, but a few good whacks with a good hammer did the trick. (California car, no rust) The initial test drive was only 5 min. or so around the suburb. Plenty of swaying through imaginary cones and a few wide U-turns in both directions going a litter faster than would be usual and a few hard braking moves completed the initial test. I had no creaks, groans, rubs, thuds or anything like that. Yea! We apparently got everything tightened back up right! RIDE AND DRIVE REPORT: For the most part, these Eibach springs perform exactly as I expected they would. That makes me happy. I would have ‘wished’ they were a bit stiffer, but, all in all, I would much rather have the springs be a little too soft than a little too hard! Straight-line driving in town, or on the interstate is, to me, exactly as stock. I live in Dayton Ohio so our roads are decent, but we have snow and cold winters so the roads are certainly not perfect. It was only when hitting a good sized bump that I could feel more harshness than the stock springs. This type of bump is only felt very infrequently so I have no complaints there at all. Slalom test: Yeah, I used imaginary cones again, but I thought the car was noticeably more responsive. This could be the lower CG or the progressive-rate springs. Either way, I enjoyed it! :) Clover-leaf on-ramp test: I need to do more testing here. I keep getting stuck behind Buicks or finding ramps with construction dirt on them. In my testing so far, I’d have to say that in moderate to slightly aggressive driving, the car does not seem to have as much initial body roll. If you’re being really aggressive, then *Yes*, the car does exhibit the stock-like body roll. (no complaints here, just an initial observation.) Braking nose-dive: Seems to be very noticeably less! Very happy here as well! Match of Eibach springs to stock shock/strut dampening leaves a little to be desired if driving aggressively AND over roads with undulations in them. This is my INITIAL experience. I was at about 65-75 through some sweepers that had these undulations that I was UNAWARE of. The car DID NOT like them. It was as if the car was wiggling through that turn! It stuck, but the wiggle was very unsettling. It seemed as if the springs were doing one thing and the shocks were doing another AS I was RACING through the corner. If I had been driving normally, I’m sure it would have behaved perfectly fine. I paid $239 and I’m happy with what I got for the price. I can see the need here for some anti-sway bar improvements, and with that I’ll probably have the cornering level that I am looking for while still retaining ride quality. My only complaint, really, is that I think the car should have an extra ¼” drop up front, or at least a ¼” difference between the front and the back. I may still do this at some point. As measured in these pictures, the top of the wheelwell in front was 26 3/8” and the rear was 26” even. When parked in certain places, it seems very noticeable to me. If you look at other cars in the Gallery or on other sites and video’s, you can see the trend. It almost becomes obvious which cars have adjustable coil-overs. (in my remote judgement) These pics were taken with a Video Camera so quality is probably not quite up to Dig. Camera specs. My friend has some pics with his Dig. Camera that I hope to post up soon. In the mean time, here are my pics. PS: On the ride home late that night after a good Frickers hang-out, I was on the Interstate heading home. I'm rolling along around 70-75mph or so in the middle lane with very light traffic and I noticed a dark red, convertible GT Mustang slowly roll up on my left. (his top is up, windows up) I let him roll by, then I eased into the gas, and before you know it, we're pedal to the metal for "ahem" a really long time. It was really close, almost a dead heat. We came upon some traffic and slowed down,....and about 30-40 seconds later we were in the open again. We both hit it again but this time I get SERIOUS and close my windows and sunroof to reduce the drag. I put a good 3 or more car lengths on him that time! :) Good times, Good times. ORIGINAL:

this should be interesting. I was under the impression that you could get a blank key from ebay but it still needed to be cut and programmed, blah, blah, blah. so, I ended up paying $176 for a new master key plus programming. I know it's a lot, but I don't have time to dk around so I paid it. :) I wonder how much I may have gotten taken for? :)

I dunno but I do know that SHE'S DONE!!!!!!!!! :D :D Pics to come in another thread

bummer, I can't see the pics! None the less, welcome to the site man.

THANK YOU for those pdf's man. Those are really helpful! :) I've got the torque wrench covered, and probably the spring compressor as well, but I don't recognize the first mention of the SST. SST 09610–20012 That's the 'ball joint separator'. I don't think I have this tool! I'm wondering if Pep Boys or Auto Zone have that?? What is SST anyway? "Special Service Tool"? Where is the best place for me to pick up a Service manual anyway, I would expect that Lexus would rip me off. Is a Chilton's good enough?

I thought I spotted only 3-4 bolts holding on each muffler/polished end. Dude, you CAN do it!

in that video, I still like the Rod Millen, but, I kinda like that "Tanabe" as well. I'm a little concerned that it may be too loud/raspy, but, I'll at least price it out. Thoughts from anyone else?

Well, it didn't happen last week, but it looks like it will happen this week. My friend and I are going to put the Eibach's on my GS400. I was just curious, is there anything unusual that I need to be prepared for? I'm expecting to just take off the wheels, undo the shocks, undo a nut on the upper control arm and then carefully get the spring out. (proper safety followed of course) (ok, I just looked. I saw a sort of 'spring/shock' combo so my steps are tainted by old-school experience) :) Any tips? (other than reminding me that I should get a manual! :( )

If your car is like my 99, then it's actually a hard-drive update, i had mine done last summer. They had to order it too. They'll want to charge you for it if you are not under "warranty", but, I believe you get 2 free updates while under warranty.

I hope this helps brother. I would also suggest that you call a local rim shop, or automotive shop that can order Zenetti rims. They should have a dealer only brochure or something with "hopefully" the exact info you need. This is what I could find, it may or may not be the company you seek, but it seems right to me. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Dun and Bradstreet, Inc. G B Automotive Products, Inc 12661 Crenshaw Blvd Hawthorne, CA 90250-3303 TELEPHONE: 310-973-0946 ********************************** EXECUTIVES ********************** VICE PRESIDENT: Philip Berman, V Pres SECRETARY: ISA Berman, Secretary SALES: Joe Zarat, Sales CLUBS-LODGES-ORGANIZATIONS: Gordon Berman, President *********************************** EMPLOYEES ********************** Employees At This Location: 16 - Actual SALES TERRITORY: U.S. PROPERTY: 17,000 Square Feet - Rents TRADESTYLE: Zenetti Wheels Google: 888-446-1499 Other: May or may not be same shop: G & B Automotive co-owner Shane Garazian xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx PS. I also agree with Telefunken, and have done those things in the past myself. Filling out a "dispute form" from the Credit Card company, where they then reverse the charges, has always gotten me the desired results.

hang on, I have a source for info like that, let me check.....

dude, that ride is phat! can I say that? Is that right? lol! j/k! the paint and wheels play off each other really well and the tint is just right! With a ride that sweet, there's no need to be speedin'.

yes, i have the nav..... You do to, right?? Do you have that amp in the right side of the trunk? Edit: The more I think about it, the more I have to go back to the original post Blue.... "i have read in some posts here that the stock system doesnt have bass mid and treble adjustments, and the nakim. does..." I don't think that's a correct statement in that other thread.

I hear ya Neo, I hear ya loud and clear. I didn't realize that such a small damn lip spoiler would be "so much". (in comparison to a full front replacement.) The full front could very well take me a year or two to get, in that, I may have to buy the parts a little at a time. Depends upon whether I get that $10 Mill that Ed McMahon is telling me I've won. ;) The painting isn't such a bad deal. I have a friend who owns a paint shop and we barter my PC skills for his painting/prep work.

Thinking out loud here..... I find that exhaust info really puzzling. Usually, on almost any factory car, you can get noticeable increase from exhaust upgrades. Better Cat. Convertors, bigger pipe size, lower restriction muffliers, even to the better bends of a mandrel bent pipe vs whatever the stock setup is. That's not even discussing headers, which must be an obvious improvement if you can find a quality set. I was wanting to upgrade my exhaust based upon all of that, but now you've got me second-guessing!! :cries:

that would be interesting because I have that amp (or some 12" piece of electronic gizmo) there in the trunk. perhaps there was a mid-grade stereo system?

I don't have a definitive answer for you, but, my 99 is the same as yours. I have nav and had read in Lexus sales docs that you cannot get the Nakamichi and Nav together. I have the bass/mid/treble adjustment like you do, but am not sure if this radio is a slight upgrade over the stock radio. (I have 6CD too, as I presume you do, but again, I'm not sure if they all came with it)

it's not for me personally. I have always liked the 'one pipe on the right, one on the left' look.

who in the HECK is giving you that line of crap? :chairshot: 1qt for every 1000 miles is not acceptable in any daily transport vehicle. Either they mis-understood you or they don't want your business/do not want to help. In general, there are two area's that can cause blue-ish smoke in the exhaust. (burning oil) 1. worn valve seals. these tend to show up as blue smoke during initial startup, but not so much once the engine is warmed up. 2. Worn piston rings. this tends to show up as blue smoke when you are taking off from a dead stop, or during heavy acceleration. Neither one is cheap. You could possibly slow the rate of burn by running a thicker oil. ie 10w40,......maaaybe 20w50. Of course, there's always that "Restore" stuff they sell at AutoZone or Pep Boys! :) I'm not a believer in the stuff, but hey, ya never know.

it probably came in over the Sat. Link.

check the RPM's before and after the moving of the shift lever, also, listen to see if there is a difference between shifting from Park to Reverse, and Park to 'any forward gear'. It may just be a U-joint, then again, it may be that your rpm's in Park are a touch high, making for a more noticeable shift into gear from Park.

it would be temporary in the sense that what I REALLY want is one like you have Syph! :) What was that, L-Sportline?? ps. thanks for the info, I am going to PM you soon with parts needs.

Whether it's RMM, L-Tuned, L-Sportline, Eibach, or whatever, where to you buy your more expensive items? The only place I'm aware of is Lextasy. I'm so green!!! (sorry, I can't create a poll because I don't know who the players are!!!)

I've seen this on a few cars in the Gallery. I can't afford a complete kit right now, and was thinking about this as a temporary solution to modify the front a little bit. (Still deciding upon which grill to get....) Car gets lowered this week too! woohoo! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/GS/18949P1010035_med

I do not know how much of a part the ECU/computer plays in your transmission since it's a '93, but on "NON"-ecu controlled tranny's, it's just a matter of the right springs, vacuum signal and small bearings in the transmission. (ie. a shift kit type of setup) the ball bearing just redirects fluid flow internally..... Since no one is answering, perhaps you should talk to a dealer, then a tranny shop to see what they both say.