BA_GS400

for what it's worth, a 'jerking' feeling or 'chug chug chug' kinda thing is generally going to be spark related as opposed to anything fuel related. You could also try running the engine at night, pop the hood, and look around very closely for any blue spark as a friend revs the engine. Perhaps a wire or spark-plug insulator (ceramic) is allowing the spark to short against something.

Just for reference, I have the PI torque converter. I HIGHLY recommend getting a tranny cooler for it, expecially if you do much stop and go or even a little in-town driving. I think there was an earlier question about installing the TC yourself. If you've done heavy car work in the past, I'm sure you can do this too, but, unless you've got the stands, a friend, a tranny jack and a full Sat. afternoon, you might want to leave it to a tranny shop or to a Lexus/Toyota shop. I've done a handful of trannys and STILL opted to have a shop do it! :) I ran my TC without a cooler for approx. 3 weeks until I was able to get the cooler installed. During those 3 weeks, I had no less than *THREE* separate occurances where I could SMELL my tranny fluid! Since the cooler install, not a single instance. BTW, I drive pretty aggressively, hence, I'm usually makin' the converter work hard. ;) Oh yeah, I did get a bonafide 4-5 tenths improvement at the dragstrip.

I'm a little surprised that GooGone did not work for ya! I had similar trouble on an older Acura Legend though. The only two other things I can tell you should work, are, "Goof Off" - it's yellow with a red label, *OR* Nail Polish Remover. That is is what I used on my Ac in the end.

AFTER EIBACH: I'm happy with the Eibach but I'll let you be the judge for your own tastes. The H&R's are going to ride stiffer for sure.

heheh, having a little pic trouble here. :) This should be an "after" Eibach spring pic......

BEFORE EIBACH:

Congrats on your ride man, I'm sure it looks good on the chrome 17's. I have a silver one and it came with the same rims. I used the Eibach springs, $240, to lower mine and remove that gap. Well, it lowered the car about an inch anyway, but to REALLY remove that gap AND keep a good ride quality, you'd have to go with coil-overs, which is a spring and shock assembly and those are more expensive. More like $800-$1500. If you go with springs only like I did, you'll find the stock ride is there for the straight line stuff, but with some improvement in the corners as well. From my personal experience, I can see that I should also buy some new appropriate shocks from a good shop like Koni or something because now my springs and shocks are not well balanced. The new, better, shocks are probably going to run me $400-$450. If you look at a bunch of the pictures in this sites gallery, or at other Lexus sites on the web, you can get a good idea of how the car will look with either springs, or the more expense and 'lower' coil-overs.

I definitely could be wrong on this, but, I thought the only place doing the extrude honing here in the US was in North Carolina, but after a quick check it looks like I'm wrong! http://www.extrudehone.com/worldwide/index.html I can only guess at the expected increase as much as any other knowledgeable guy. ie. referencing gains from similar displacement engines of other manufacturers, etc. I saw some pics of the inside of our manifolds on another site once and it sure ain't pretty. Actually, it was really bad and made me wonder how the heck we're getting 300hp!

That's funny! :) Just to be clear Neo, I wasn't implying that you WERE talking down or anything, I've just seen similar mis-readings in general from disparate people in other threads on the 'Net. I'm sure you have too. I was only trying to offer an un-involved viewpoint. I know you were being helpful. ←

That's funny! :) Just to be clear Neo, I wasn't implying that you WERE talking down or anything, I've just seen similar mis-readings in general from disparate people in other threadson the 'Net. I'm sure you have too. I was only trying to offer an uninvolved viewpoint. I know you were being helpful.

the only two mods purchased were the HKS mufflers (not even cat-back), and the torque converter. I did run with minimal fuel in the tank, I use synthetic engine oil,...removed the rear tire and 17" chrome rim and removed the air filter too. oh yeah, I DID NOT have good gas in the car either. Kinda *BLEEP*es me off for being so unprepared. I wonder if the timing might have been ever so slightly retarded by the ECU because of that. Synth. differential fluid would be an easy change that might net .05 or so. car has 98000 miles on it.

I had a 91 Legend coupe just before this GS400 I have now. There is no comparison. Seriously. Maybe with the GS300 as far as power is concerned, but, after that the Lex is simply more comfortable, quieter, etc. I drag race every car I've owned pretty much, and bikes too. (for fun) My GS4 did a 14.5 at 96mph with only HKS mufflers on it. I might have gotten a tenth or so at MOST with some better weather, but the weather wasn't too bad. The shifting on the GS is less than optimum no matter what you do. (undershifts a lot....slushy when manually doing 1 to 2) Anyway, my first pass with an aftermarket Precision Industries torque converter netted me a 14.1x at almost 98mph. I fully expect a 13.9 with the Supra 3.76 gears and posi unit. Maybe that cold air intake or SRT w/ECU will be another tenth or two. Then there is the Cat-back possibility, aftermarket catalytic convertors and if you have money, you can spend about 600-900 and have the stock exhaust manifolds extrude honed. Good luck and have fun man!!

Neo's a good and helpful guy, don't hold his curtness against him. ;) (as a side note, I can see where using "For starters", can be mis-construed to mean..."look here first !Removed!".) :) Anyway, I wasn't aware of hardly any major changes in those years in question. If anything, it would only be minor options like color, rim design/17"/chrome options, maybe something like the stereo manufacturer, stuff like that. (heated seats....) Externally, I think they are visually identical. either way, Neo is correct that there is an archive at the Lexus website. Edmunds.com is the next best place.

I was quoted $200 for by a friends shop. I ended up doing it with a friend and it only took 4 hrs for all 4 springs and all the correct tools being handy. I bought the Eibach for $240 and they dropped the car about 1 inch. They give a nearly stock ride quality in a straight line and on normal street imperfections. Brake dive was reduced, and body roll slightly reduced in cornering. They are progressive rate springs. I thought that I had heard that the L-Tuned springs were a 1.25" drop also. You might want to ask other L-Tuned owners, or check their website. That guy you checked with might not be the norm. I've heard that H&R springs are low, like the 1.25" - 1.5" you're looking for, but they are also pretty firm. Hope you have saved the cash to get new shocks too!

If you were really that hard up for cash, and willing to accept used ones, you could always try a place like CLICKY It's a national network of auto salvage places and you just click on the part you want and it tells you instantly the places that have your car or part in stock, ready to go!

good advice, and I sure hope it helps! I'm have to go out on a limb though, and say that I think it's something different. it just seems too consistent in it's nature to be a connection, and the description of the problem is off IMO. I would suspect a solenoid to act like this, where it will click only, but not even attempt to turn over. I would suspect a loose connection to be a little less consistent. (again, just my opinion here...) now, I have to admit that the problem sounds like no other starting problem I've seen, so,.....I'm wondering if it could be the key?

I agree. To add, there are probably competent tranny shops in your area that might be able to do the flush as well if the dealer won't come down on price. Oh yeah, the fluid costs about $4-$5 a qt, so, you'll need a bit more than the $8 mentioned above. I've heard it's 4 qts in the pan, and I believe the entire tranny and convertor total up to around 15 qts.

So far, 14.1 at 98mph. It was decent air but not 'great' air. I wish I could have gone back before the season ended.

Yes, I stalled it all the way up to 1800 which is my stock stall for the 99. I've been racing, at the strip, for years and years with a lot of different cars and bikes. My 60' times before the convertor replacement were 2.25 and traction at my local track is never a problem. It is well prepped. I know that it goes against "conventional wisdom" that the brake stall doesn't help, I can only say that I AM able to floor it 100% right out of the hole, and I tried to time it a little earlier than when I was doing the 'brake stall' method. That is how I kept the reaction times down. PS. I shallow stage.

a good comparison in my opinion. is the Audi all-wheel drive? I'd believe that the edge for "modding" the car with suspension, bodykit, etc would go to the Lexus. Tough comparison though. How reliable is that Audi 4.2? Have you checked edmunds.com for input? I find the GS to be a tad more sportier when properly outfitted, and the Audi a bit more adult/mature looking.

I can say that because I have TIME SLIPS. :) Where is your stall at on a 430?

You do N O T have 500hp.

you're right, it is absolutely the RING and PINION that will give you the gear ratio. This is the only way. If you didn't get those, you can buy them from aftermarket......

Yes, even though the e-shift display says 2, you will launch in 1st gear. I drag race at the strip a lot, have taken the lex there a few times and can guarantee that. JPI is right, the torque convertor, although a bit expensive, is a H U G E help in getting our barge of a car off the line. I'm getting 2.0 60' times and 14.1 ET. Before the Torque convertor, it was 2.25 and 14.5 ET. The next best thing is the gear ratio. Rear ends from a TT Supra will fit, but that's expensive mod too. I've done all variations of launching at the drag strip and can tell you that for our cars being stock, it doesn't not help to put your foot on the brake and gas it a little before launching. (ie. brake stall) Some places actually sell a "shift kit" for our car. ie. Rod Millen Motorsports. I'm thinking about getting one myself. I think they're 80 bucks or so.

those coatings you're referring to are only put onto the "non-pad" area. you can certainly delay the rusting of the had and finned area by these coatings, or, try to G2 brake paint. It is good stuff. Perhaps those other rotors are still shiney because the owner drives like an old lady. Perhaps the car lives in a garage most of it's life. I doubt that they are doing anything 'special' to achieve that look personally. ps. zinc is a good rust preventative. look at some of the good stuff at www.eastwoodcompany.com