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steviej

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Everything posted by steviej

  1. if you would like to maintain fuel economy and pass your next inspeciton, then you would want to get it replaced. Also, if you don't replace it, unburned fuel will enter the hot catalytic converter and severely damage the element over time thus setting you up for another more expensive repair in the future. They are not hard to replace if you have an O2 sensor socket. There is a wire that comes out of the sensor that you don't want to damage. I have seen them for as low at $100 and as high as $300 from aftermarket Lexus parts wholesalers. How far are you from Garland, TX. you might want to consider this LOC sponsor for your repair work. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=7198& steviej
  2. I throw in a bottle of Chevron w/Techron fuel system cleaner with every other oil change. That comes out to be about every 10,000 miles or 6 months. It is readily available at the Exxon/Mobil stations that I fill up at. steviej
  3. I said it before, everyone's got their own opinion. steviej
  4. the net has two loops that fit on pegs that are mounted inside the trunk, at the on the inside of the back wall, up high. The rim of the net is bungie cord material so it stretches and stays taught. if you need a pic, I can pop one tonight of my 02.....shouldn't be that much different. steviej
  5. $30 from IronToad.com mind you, the picture is a general picture. http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=1997es300 steviej
  6. your ES is FWD, the diff is up front. If you do not do regular changes of the fluids and filters, you are certainly setting yourself up for major problems down the road. "You can pay him now, or pay him later" m2pc........absolutely right about shifting in the New England cold. steviej
  7. funny thing with Lexus, they never state in the supplemental manual when the tranny fluid SHOULD be flushed. They only suggest inspeciton of the fluid on the 30k intervals but never say what to look for or when to definately change it. However the dealerships are going to tell you to do a tranny and diff fluid flush every 15k miles. I would say do what m2pc suggests and drain and fill yourself this time. Your 60 k is coming up soon, so have the dealership or whoever does the 60k service flush the tranny system again then. If you do it, use Toyota T-IV tranny fluid. If you are not burning or losing oil then you probably don't have a sludging problem. Just change it and the filter every 3-5k miles, like you are doing. Careful, the filter is a &*@# to change cause the manifold can burn you. Wear long sleeves. I am concerned as to one thing in your post, carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless. Describe the smell that goes away in 5 minutes. Is it more like rotten eggs, petroleum burning, metal, or what? I'm guessing it is what is getting by the cat until the cat heats up. steviej
  8. have you tried Longo Lexus? or was that where you were insulted? steviej
  9. Jazz, I have the Dunlop SP A2's on my ES. The salesman said he was seeing alot of premature tread wear on BMWs too. I only have 3k miles on them so far, so only time will tell. They are good in the rain and snow. Very good on dry. welcome aboard. steviej
  10. I used to use Fram all the time (on my previous three cars). Never had a problem with them. There are two syndicated radio auto talk shows out of Boston, and both of them say the Fram filters are fine. The high end Fram filters (X2 I think it is called) are supposed to be very comparable to Mobil 1, K&N, etc. There is alot of controversy about filters. OEM vs Amsoil vs Mobil vs etc. You will get several links that compare and review oil and filters. For example: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com is many times sited for information. It all comes down to what you want to pay, how often are you going to change your oil and what you are comfortable with. If you search on oil filters or oil changes, you will be overwhelmed with information. Give it a try then decide for yourself. personally, I use synthetic oil and change it and the filter every 5000 miles. I have used Toyo/Lexus, Mobil 1 and K&N Gold on my 02 ES. I like the K&N the best cause it has a nut molded into the casing so it is really easy now to remove the filter out from under the hot manifold. steviej
  11. you can find a bad wheel bearing this way too. mind you, you are only wiggling the wheel/tire. Don't try to rattle the whole suspension/steering. sj.
  12. it's #1. Toyo/Lexus brake fluid level senors are very touchy and will indicate that the fluid is low even when the level is above the min. mark. Just add a little DOT III fluid to the reservoir. DON'T get this fluid on your paint as it will strip it right off. steviej
  13. as was mentioned in the other thread that you posted this in, this seems more engine related than tranny related. maybe a dirty throttle body or a sticky trottle position sensor. steviej please, in the future, don't double post as it gets very confusing.
  14. word of note: WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a solvent. I don't know if it does or does not degrade clear coat. It is rare that clear coat can fail and even come off, thus allowing direct UV light onto the paint, but it does happen. check with a body shop and see what they say. Just ask questions, don't commit to anything. steviej
  15. Alan, my thoughts exactly. danp007's problems sounds more like a dirty throttle body or a throttle position sensor. steviej
  16. press the issue with 1-800-25-LEXUS. If it is condensation, ask the dealership for data on how many he fixes due to routine condensation vs standing water. Look around the lot and see how many used and CPOs have "condensation" keep on them. the 800 number wants complete customer satisfaction and if the car is still in the warranty period, there should be no question and no discussion. steviej
  17. I can't wait to sit in your car and listen to it. DISCO station here we come. Wooooo whhhhooooo, toot toot beep beep toot toot beep beep!!!!! :D steviej
  18. scroll down to the bottom of your screen and scan the links that flash up for mats. steviej
  19. get the code read. There are many things that set off the CEL (check engine light). Can be anything from a loose gas cap to a failing EGR valve to a faulty O2 sensor. you won't know until the code is read. go to Autozone, they will read the code for free. Keep in mind, they might not be able to connect to your port. But it is worth the trip. If they can't, pm me, i have istructions on how to do it yourself. steviej
  20. check the wheel bearing. jack that side of the car and support it with a jack stand. grab the tire and 12 and 6:00. Pull the bottom towards you and push the top away from you. Then reverse that. If you feel any play in the wheel or hear any thumping, it may be your wheel bearing. if it sounds like a low pitched growl.......it smells like a wheel bearing. steviej
  21. don't skip it. It is a critical one. Are you good with a wrench? Most of this stuff can be done by yourself in the drive way if you any inkling of what to do under the hood. The hardest ones would be the brake fluid, coolant and tranny/diff flush and fill. look around you area for a reputable Lexus independent mechanic and see what they give you for pricing. My 90k is about $1200, my 60k is in the ballpark of $700 at a Lexus dealership. I've got an 2002 ES. I am really leaning to doing most of the 60k myself. steviej
  22. here is a link to a reputable source in the US. I have purchased stuff from them in the past and their bulb prices are very reasoanble (even for PIAA). D2R bulbs = 107.99 ea. (bartkat, was your $80 a pair or each.) http://www.performancecenter.com/products/...c3a48097ca2de1a steviej
  23. got a better idea. A bunch of us are meeting up in Edison, New Jersery on Sunday, April 25th. Deleware is not that far away. Plan to meet up with us, and that way we can see and listen to your fine craftsmanship. B) DIYs are the best. steviej
  24. On the light stalk, turn the switch to DRL off (if it is like my ES). In this position, mind you, the Auto function is disabled and you will have to remember to turn the headlights on at dusk. The reset procedure (as well as the light positions) should be in your owners manual. Have you read that. Like I always say, "when in doubt, read the destructions". steviej
  25. nancyd, go with what you know and are comfortable. There is nothing wrong with using the all season treads from March/April to December and the snow tires from December to March (give or take couple of weeks). I'm in Boston so I can totally identify with you on the snow thing. Trust the process with the dealer. Lexus wants 100% customer satisfaction. They will do right by you. your husband sounds like my father. He is a retired automotive instuctor, so every new or persistent noise has to be indentified and rectified (if possible). Enjoy the ride. steviej
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