TurboGS300

EBay, maybe $20+ shipping? <_<

Check EBay for average prices and also to see what others are paying. I looked for 6 months before finding my GS300. I got an AWESOME DEAL and it's in superb condition. <_<

HID's are the only way to go. Nothing else comes close. B)

Way to go mailman :P

You don't need to do that. Either fix or replace the frame thats on there. Most frames have a slot the plate slides into on the bottom so it doesn't rattle, either it needs to be adjusted or replaced with one that does. If it still rattles some after adjusting or replacing , install some dynamat on the back of the plate. <_< Oh yeah, yes you're whipped and you should be ashamed of yourself, have you seen how most women drive and treat their cars. :chairshot: Unless you've been married for like 25 years, she should be driving that avalon. <_<

The fmax kit has alot of issues, as far as fitment of piping.

Don't buy the ES, get what you really want. If you want a GS go buy it, it will hold it's resale pretty well, even in 9 years, as long as you do your part. B)

B) yep, it's like changing the oil, only slightly more important

Tags, tax, and title fees are paid in your home state. You know you'll be paying interest on that money for the next 6 years or so, I would pay for tags, tax and title out of my own pocket. If you want to do it all in one deposit the entire check in your account and then wire the lexus dealer their fee and the rest left over is for tags, tax and title. Oryou could give it all to the lexus dealer and have them refund the difference back to you. <_<

This has been covered before many times, try searching if you need any additional info and then asking if you don't find what you need <_<

I'm reminded of a simillar problem I had on a ford ranger. It was the heat shield, but it was rattling because one or more of the welded mounts for the heat shield had broken off from the heating and cooling of the exhaust. Probably a bad weld. <_<

I checked on my car 2100rpm's equal 60mph with overdrive on. 3000rpm's with OD off. 3000rpm's is pretty high with no OD option, I wonder if somethings not shifting? Speed sensor maybe, or would that affect the speedo? <_<

<_< There should be a switch in front of the cupholder to adjust between like sport or touring or something to that effect. B)

What's a good brand? I see rotors on-line for ~$120 a set. ← Brembo, something that has a plated hub for rust protection. I bought a set off EBay for $139 for all 4, they look fine to me.

Yes that used to be the correct way to adjust. Now with OBD-II and electronic throttle etc. it is easier and more accurate to use a diagnostic tool. ← Kewl, thanks colin <_<

Thats strange my repair manual gives no % ony voltages and ohms and pinout to use with a multimeter. It's the original lexus manual, 2 big thick books. Could it be that mines for a 93?

Not sure if we're thinking of the same thing in regards to sway. I'm thinking of sway in the front if so then thats a way to stiffen it up. I would try the rotors first, maybe get some new drilled/slotted ones, guy is pretty knowledge if he says rotors. I'd go with his recommendation first. Then, if the problem is still there try the shock brace and sway bar bushings or even a stiffer bar B)

NOPE, it's not enough power. B) Just click on the user name to read posts or topics by that person.

What is that angle % and/or where can I find that info? If I reinstall the old sensor or install the new one will the car still start w/o the adjustment? ← On my Fuel Injected ZX12R, you can set your TPS sensor with a multi-meter and looking for certain voltage in the plug while you adjust the sensor. (it has slotted holes where it's screwed down, allowing for a clockwise/counterclockwise movement) ← You can do yours the same way you just need the shop manual for the values and terminal identification. The % is more for a scanner like the high dollar snapon and mac's B)

Take it to the dealer, they can check it more indepth then autozone. <_<

You could try a shock tower brace to stiffen it up some. Maybe shocks and springs as well and change the swaybar bushings. :whistles:

EBay :whistles:

B) Maybe take a soldering iron and heat the contacts of the fuse till it releases.

It's not that bad, so go to it! Apply lots of dynamat under there, especially all around the sub so the vibrations don't go any further. You could even unbolt the sub and put a layer of dynamat underneath it, like a gasket.

BE CAREFUL ON MY TOYOTA COROLLA 2001 THAT I USED TO HAVE IT HAD SCREWS HOLDING THE WIRES TO THE FUSE, IT WAS A 100 amp fuse. Go buy a new fuse so you can see if it is a blade type or has screw holes.