TurboGS300

I have sirius , however, it's built into the headunit. I want to get XM as well so I found a bracket for cell phones that mounts to the passenger side of the radio and the XM unit mounts to that. It should look great and is probably the best look you're going to get, unless you have something custom built.

is overdrive on? I think 3000rpm's at 60 is pretty normal. I'll doublecheck mine abit later and let you know. <_<

Just remember also that xovers are not a brick wall, if you set it at 250hz or 100hz it will still play the lower frequencies, they will just slowly get reduced in volume more and more as the frequency drops B)

This has been a great debate :P ,ok so moving on. Now, you think the 6.5 would sound better because it can play lower, that is true. However, when you install a speaker free-air the midbass is drastically reduced and if you have a sub, playing 80hz and lower you'll never hear that 100hz midbass anyways. So, a good boston accoustics or MB Quart 2 way 4" speaker in the factory enclosure with the port hole sealed shut would actually give you a boost in the midbass frequencies. It would sound better than the 6.5 speaker for midbass, because you'd actually hear it. So now who's been giving the crappy knowledge.

:whistles: I think the whole rear deck has to come out, the seats as well. :whistles:

Yep, most had the 2 tone white/grey paint scheme, selectable ride switch, a few other little things :whistles:

No, it doesn't have a supercharger :P

Welcome and congrats. One of the things that comes on the touring models is the ride adjust switch.

So you say It will NEVER be 13.9 at the trunk and that a voltage drop of 1 to 2 volts is ok, ha! Mine is 14.2 at the main battery and at the trunk, looks like your whole theory just took a flying leap. I have a PPI 4800 and a US AMPS sub amp. probabaly around 1100 watts clean power total. My voltage may drop to 13.9 with the stereo cranked up almost all the way.

You got it, the new cable will come however you buy it. So make sure you get one long enough, with a battery terminal on one end and a ring terminal or bolt lug on the other end. Make sure you cut the old cable after the terminal or bolt lug, on the side going to the battery. You have to be able to bolt up the part of the old cable running to the engine with the new cable running to the battery. B)

I'm not saying a 6.5 inch speaker ia a WRONG CHOICE SOUNDWISE. I'm saying the way YOU ARE INSTALLING IT IS WRONG! Do you think lexus put a 4 inch grill over a 4 inch speaker for a reason. I think they would have rather made the grill 2 inches smaller if they felt it made no difference in sound quality, since you the EXPERT, THINK IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. I'm sure every car manufacturer would love to make the speaker grills 2 inches smaller than the speaker. Well, guess what, they don"t. NO PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER WOULD PUT A 6 INCH SPEAKER BEHIND A 4 INCH GRILL, HACK!!!

A buzzing niose is usually something vibrating, either something is loose or it's resonant harmonic is at that speed.

Could be an air leak from a grommet on the firewall.

Maybe I did B) It's just a hack way of doing something and shows you have no knowledge of acoustics or pride in your ride, if you're going to do something do it right. Do you think any professional installer would do something like that, NOPE! To each his own

Thanks, a lot! So, it is pretty easy? ← Yep, just make sure to get the right length and to cut the wire right after where it bolts to the frame. So, you'll be removing the old cable with nothing on one end and the battery terminal on the other. :)

You have to bolt it to the other cable as the cable continues further along under the engine. You're just cutting off the bad part from the frame up, where it's bolted. I think the spray is fine as long as there is NO CORROSION in the wire. If the wire in question is full of white powdery corrosion it's time to replace. You could use the spray on the new cable to prevent corrosion on it. <_<

:D Yep! :D Look up hub centric on ebay, you'll find them a little cheaper!

B) No, you can go up to 20 inch, If you look at the size of the factory tire/rim. It's avbout the same as a 19 or 20 with a low profile tire.

If it's never been changed and has 240 thousand miles, YOU'D BETTER CHANGE IT. Oils and fluids wear out and loose their lubricating abilities and then they become acidic and eat away at things. <_< Should be able to look up the paint from the VIN

Discount tire or EBay. Under $20

You'll have to remove the battery, follow the ground cable down to where it is bolted to the frame. You'll have to cut the cable neatly there. Run the new cable down to the frame and bolt it with the other cable there. Reinstall battery, with new ground. :P

<_< So it has been running fine since you replaced the plugs and all of a sudden yesterday it started doing this? You can troubleshoot the injectors and the spark plugs by unplugging one at a time and listening for a change in the engine rpm or the way it runs. If you notice a change after unplugging and plugging in each plug wire or injector connector then it's working. if you unplug one and there is NO CHANGE then you've found your problem.

t=The shaking is caused by a larger center bore on the aftermarket rim, most of the time centering rings will fix it almost completely. B)

You can get premade 4 or 2 gauge ground cables at checker's or most auto parts stores or you can got to a stereo shop or you can make your own. If corrosion is constantly building up you may have a leak around one of the battery terminals. So you may have to get a new battery. Get an OPTIMA RED TOP if you don't have any stereo equipment or acc. A BLUE TOP if you do have stereo equipment. I would still replace the ground with the larger gauge as it will help the car to work better by carrying more current. Also it will give a better ground. <_<

I have a 1993 gs300.... i run a red top, a dry cell in the trunk and i run about 200+ amps on the amplifiers. My alt is fine my lights only blink while parked. My voltage never goes under 12.4 or so. Try upgrading your wiring. Run an extra 4awg from your alternator to the battery, upgrade your ground wires. Also could be your amp if i'm not mistake the jl 1000/1 is a class ab amp which is a monster on current draw. www.sounddomain.com/id/gompka ← UMMM! 12.4 VOLTS means the alternator is not charging. All your currents coming off the battery at 12.4 cause the alternator can't keep up ← If it wasn't charging then my batteries would die. BTW forgot to mention the 12.4 is at the rear batttey after doing through 20 feet of 1/0 awg cable. ← Doesn't matter, yes there is some voltage drop to the rear, but 12.4 means it's not being charged like it should. It should be 13.9 minimum, anywhere in the car. You obviously are putting way to much of a load on your alternator and it won't be lasting long. The dual batteries are not helping any. Just because it works, doesn't make it RIGHT!!! however, in this case it's just barely working.