TurboGS300

Yes, however, then the windows wouldn't work from each individual switch, if that were the case. <_<

Yes, the IFR6T-11 should work just fine, or the BKR5EIX B) Make sure you compare them to your old ones and let us know how they work out.

As long as you stay at around 4100k to 5400k, they're no comparison to HID's, however, brighter and whiter than stock. <_<

silverstars or PIAA should be fine as long as they're not over 65 watts. You can buy a used headlamp or seal it up with silicone.

Pull the EFI fuse <_<

Try emailing Lexus, if no one has an answer. B)

The only difference are the harness lengths and the manufacturer. The first three are all the same except different wire lengths, measure the old ones. I think Denso is a better brand name. Call them on the Densos as they don't have any pics or try the crossreference. They are all wired the same so you cant go wrong there. B)

if you'd searched you'd have found carson toyota or toyotaandlexusparts.com B)

Small amount of spray expanding foam to cushion the brake case if you cant get to it and wrap it with something. I'd make them fix it, they installed it! <_<

I like the iridiums better, they will last longer! Also they are harder so less wear, better conductivity! Which means set'em and forget'em. The iridiums are only about $2 more so they are a much better deal. They may be the last plugs you buy. Here ya go. Plugs

Most likely drivers switch is bad. <_<

Let me do some checking for a fair price, I'm in Phx AZ B) So you need the whole mirror assembly, or just the glass?

Congrats, You can buy just the center piece from places some dash kit places. Do a searchon google. I think it's around $50 0r $60. The cupholde can't be bought alone you must buy the whole assembly, $149! Or keep checking EBay like everyone else. Sidemirror EBay or junkyard, Do you just need the glass only or the whole assembly? I will have one shortly as I'm replaing mine with JDM's just need to paint the JDM ones. Leatheseats, I just bought a new set of skins so I will be selling my old ones, drivers seat is worn on the bolster side with small tear, all the rest are in great condition. Otherwise you're looking at over about a $1000 for a new set of skins that you can install or pay someone to install. B) I like mobil one synthetic or Amsoil synthetic for oil.

You should use a DMM to check for the heater wires. they will be the only 2 wires that will give a reading through each other with the sensor disconnected. It would be easier to buy the OEM one as it is prewired! If you buy an aftermarket one you'll have to figure out the <_< wiring. Yes, you have to replace the whole sensor

I'm sure it's normal and that since it's an automatic transmission and works through fluid pressure, it takes a second or so for it to find the right gear <_<

Moving a car, then putting it in neutral will only work if the starter is engaged, however, only for a manual transmission car. If the starter has a bad spot on the armature or the starter ring and the solenoid is fine putting the car in gear with a manual transmission will move the armature or starter ring to a different spot and allow it to work, until the bad spot comes up again. <_< It

Make sure both battery terminal are tight! Make sure all wires connections to battery and grounds to the frame are good and tight. Make sure battery cables are not corroded inside. it's gotta be something simple like this. Which explains why it worked when you jumped it. <_<

Ok then, it's pretty simple system, I'll post more when I get home, however, these are the 3 main steps to repairing it. B) check cut switch check for wires shorting check TRAC ECU and replace

Could the "flickering" be blinking, as in a trouble code?

The black is going to be hard to maintain and will show every little scratch, plus the heat in LA isn't going to help out either. I'd choose silver <_<

Yes, you need the height adapter and you don't need the reversed, although I got it. You'll just have to spin the battery around if you don't get the reversed. B) 800s is the correct battery.

Pressing or pumping the gas pedal really does nothing on a fuel injected vehicle, except let more air in. B) So, there is a pressure drop. Check for leaks or routing of the gas line to close to any exhaust components. Also check the check valve SRK mentioned.

If you had a new key made and it wasn't programmed then you probably don't have the chip in the key. Not sure what year it started on the GS4's. IF there's no chip it has to be the starter, starter relay, or wire connection.

Sounds like the starter is going out or maybe something with the chip in the key. Is there any kind of indication on the instrument cluster that tells if the key is being read and understood? Honda's have a green key symbol, fords have the theft light, not sure what Lexus has. Also check and see if anyone tapped onto any of the wires for the starter and maybe it's causing a bad connection, seems to be pretty common here recently. Previous owners tapping into wires for things and creating bad connections. <_<

Well, since I've owned my 93 GS3 had a slight bit of vibration in the drivers seat when my car idled. For some reason I attributed it to the aftermarket exhaust Because of another members post on another Lexus forum about replacing his motor and tranny mounts. I decided to go ahead and do it. I have 115,000 miles, car still rides great, just a little vibration here and there, nothing to whine about. Well after pricing it out I choose to take it to my shop(Toyowest). I usually try to do everything myself, however, their prices are usually pretty decent and they do great work. So I bring it in for motor and tranny mounts. They just called to tell me the mounts are trashed, broken in half. However, they also found, when they lifted up the motor, a leaking dipstick O ring($120 parts and labor), leaking oil pressure sensor($235 parts and labor), leaking trans cooler lines($50). I had the tranny flushed 15,000 miles ago, needs to be flushed again!($169) I also mentioned a slight noise I heard occasionally that sounded like a bad drive belt tensioner, turns out the power steering pump is leaking from the shaft. because someone didn't change it frequently enough when it was new I changed it at 90,000, damage already done, should have been done at 15,000. Remanufactured power steering pump + labor ($400). As usual, I'm leaving paying close to $1000 Oh well, I'm glad I decided to do this, who knows how long or how much damage might have been caused. The car never leaked on the ground, so there was no evidence it was leaking and I never noticed any leaking as all the areas were hidden from normal view. I did notice a little tranny fluid on the lower splash shield where the tranny hoses go in/out of the tranny cooler. However, after I wiped it up it seemed to have stopped leaking. Everyone of the items being replaced are common failure items on the GS3's.