monarch

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&cmd=si&img=217 I'm trying to find out how to find and remove the steering rack solenoid filter screen http://www.saber.net/~monarch/solenoid2.jpg Am I on the right track?

If you install a magnetic engine oil drain plug don't ever expect to see any metal shavings on it because it is a gimmick product.

BTW, you don't have to buy OEM oil filters. Lexus can't void your warranty because you use an aftermarket oil filter ← But using an aftermarket filter still risks engine damage in subtle ways like this: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/fram.jpg The Toyota oil filter on the RX300 & ES300 can be reached from above (after the engine has cooled off) by using a cap wrench like this http://www.saber.net/~monarch/oilfil20211.jpg connected to a regular 3/8" drive ratchet handle.

The 2001 RX300 shares the same Toyota 1MZ-FE engine with several other Toyota models. All 1993-2005 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines use the same Toyota oil filters. Toyota dealers price them lower than Lexus dealers do. There are 3 Toyota oil filters that are Toyota approved for use with the 1993-2005 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines. 1. Toyota 90915-20003 filter. This is the filter brand new 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines come with. It's designed by Nippondenso and made in Japan. Very few dealers carry it, but they can sometimes special order them and it's the most expensive filter. 2. Toyota 90915-08922 filter. It's made by Purolator here in the USA to Toyota's specifications. It's the least expensive filter ($3.87 each at 1sttoyotaparts.com) All dealers carry it. 3. Toyota 90915-YZZD1 filter. It's designed by Nippondenso and made in Thailand. All dealers carry it. Priced midway between the 90915-20003 and the 90915-08922

Have the plug wires, distributor caps and rotors ever been changed? With OEM replacements? If not, they are long overdue. Also, have the valve clearances ever been checked and adjusted if necessary? If not, they are long overdue.

If you don't have $7,500 - $12,500 to pay for a 1 owner, low mileage '90-'94 LS400 with extensive service records then you will could up with a $5,000, multiple owner, high mileage LS400 with sporadic service records that needs or will soon need $5,000 - $10,000 worth of repairs.

Excellent? No, it's just generic engine oil information that is not necessarily applicable to Asian car manufacturers. For example, the article says: "Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used." . But the facts are even for the 2005 models, Nissan says 10W-40 is fine for temps above zero degrees http://www.saber.net/~monarch/nissan.jpg and Hyundai even approves of the use of 10W-50 http://www.saber.net/~monarch/hyundai2.jpg

Are you absolutely sure it's motor oil that's leaking? Nearly all the '90-'94 LS400's develop power steering fluid leaks and factory original power steering fluid is colored brown - the same as moderately used motor oil.

I rented a 2005 Chevy Impala two weeks ago and drove it 900 miles. The Impala is supposed to be "above" a Chevy Malibu, but I found the Impala was a primitive automobile. The interior was made of cheap looking, feeling and sounding plastic and there was lots of engine and road noise. The Impala's of the 1960's were smoother, quieter and more richly appointed than this 2005 model was. I have also rented many 2002 - 2004 Camrys while on business trips and I was delighted with how smooth, powerful and refined they were - almost as nice as a Lexus.

Senior aged drivers and other unhurried drivers can go many hundreds of miles before the engine and tranny mounts wear out or before any suspension and steering linkage components and bushings wear out. That's because they don't make abrupt starts or sudden violent accelerations and don't speed around corners.

If your recently purchased 2000 RX300 has had engine oil changes every 6 months or 5,000 miles or sooner then there is no possibility of engine sludge. But, if your vehicle did not come with service records or if the previous owner stretched out some oil changes to 7,500 miles or beyond, then one of the engine's valve covers should be removed to inspect the valvetrain for the presence of sludge.

WORST CASE SCENARIO: 1. The smell is from oil leakage cause by faulty installation of the oil filter, oil drain plug or oil filler cap. 2. The oil light came on due to low oil pressure caused by insufficient oil and the engine has been damaged, but may still runs well. Typically, the "damage" results in higher than normal engine noise, particularly ticking type noises. Now if it turns out the engine oil level is fine or no more than 2 quarts low, then your engine has not been damaged.

The owners manual of the RX330 / ES330 recommends premium for better performance, but also says regular is acceptable. At lexus.com there is an owner FAQ that explains: "Use of lower grade fuel will typically cause some degree of improper combustion, which results in engine knock. When the engine management system detects knock, such as with the use of lower grade fuel, the ignition timing will be retarded. While retarding ignition timing helps to minimize knock, it also reduces available performance and fuel economy." Some brands of premium gas like Shell's premium also have 5 times more of the detergents that keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean of power and fuel economy robbing deposits.

On this forum there are always some posts from owners who are having problems with clogged catalytic converters and EGR valves and failing smog tests. One of the underlying causes of those kinds of serious problems is not changing the spark plugs soon enough. Worn plugs = higher fuel consumption = more unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust = more carbon deposits in the EGR system and higher temperatures in the catalytic converter.

Yes, all tutorials leave out one step or another. It's human nature for a pro to inadvertently leave out something that could be critical for a novice attempting a job. That's why it's important for do-it-yourselfers to have access to multiple tutorials covering the same job. And Lexls, since you are not a pro like 92Lex, your tutorials may tend to be even more valuable to a novice because you are less likely to leave out important steps and take things for granted the way a pro would tend to. Then on the other hand, a pro like 92Lex can offer insider tips that a non-pro wouldn't know and even think about.

Would you consider using a Toyota filter or a Fram filter in a new German luxury car like a Mercedes? Or just a Bosch filter or Mercedes filter?

A simple solution to avoid another disaster like you experienced is: Buy only from a private party, one owner seller who has extensive service records on the car. Especially an older owner who has driven the car gently. You can search newspaper classified ads nationwide for such cars at www.cars.com. Usually such sellers will want a slightly higher than average price for their well kept car. The extra cost is well worth it since the car will have little mechanical wear and tear.

Maybe the head gasket was already busted before your friend took the car in to get the radiator replaced. The same cooling system neglect that could have caused the radiator to develop a leak could have also caused deterioration of the head gasket.

Thanks for all your procedures and nice pictures. I think loads of people here like me would really love it if someone like you could post the procedure with pictures of how to clean the filter in the steering rack solenoid control valve? Plugging of this filter appear to be the root of all evil in the '90-'94 LS400 power steering system (plugging causes excess pressure buildup in the system which in turn causes premature power steering fluid leaks in the steering rack, pressure hoses and in the power steering pump itself)

An uncomplicated, risk free, method is to buy a 7 foot long piece of 1/2 inch outside diameter piece of vinyl tubing from a hardware store and suck out as much old fluid as you can from the power steering fluid reservior, measure the amount removed, then add back the same amount of Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Drive around the block and repeat the suck & refill procedure for a total of 6-7 times. Within an hour you'll have most of the fluid replaced which is sufficient. All the "flushing" techniques involve removing the likely brittle and cracked return hose, starving the power steering pump of oil for a second and other hassels like accidentally getting air and dirt into the system. More time consuming and more risk of componet damage, plus the expense of replacing the cracked and brittle power steering hose that would otherwise last 30 years if not touched.

Jeeps, like many other American cars, would be incredibly popular if they were reliable and durable like most Asian cars. Just basic common sense. But Americans don't even try to make their cars reliable and durable. To generate sales, American car makers rely on eye catching bold styling and cool sounding Hemi V8's; e.g. Chrysler 300. For years and years the entire Jeep line has had one of the worst frequency of repair records of any car make in Consumer Reports owner surveys.

Toyota / Lexus rotors have a minimum thickness spec listed in the factory repair manual. A micrometer is used to measure the thickness. Generally, by the time the pads need replacing for a 3rd time, the minimum thickness spec. will have been reached or exceeded. This is assuming you use factory original pads at replacement time. Aftermarket pads - especially metallic pads - can wear down the rotor much quicker. So that's one reason it can be false economy to get inexpensive pads at a Autozone / Pep Boys type place instead of factory pads from an online discount Lexus dealer like Sewell Lexus in Texas.

There's more to it than that. Although slick willy aftermarket parts salesmen may present lab test that prove aftermarket air filters filter air as well or better than a factory filter, in actual use the aftermarket filter may still allow alot more dirt into the engine: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/fram.jpg

Yep, draining with the front end of the car pointed slightly uphill and draining over a period of days is a trick that works for all rear wheel drive Toyota / Lexus cars. It's also why do-it-yourselfers should measure the amount drained to be sure they add back the correct amount of new fluid.