tundra-lover

Hey guys, I've got another question for those who may have replaced their driving lights. From what I know, the 97-01 is pretty much the same- body wise? My question, is that I've recently seen the same body style as mine at the local dealership with CLEAR driving lights. I have no idea what year this car was, or when they started using the clear style lens covers. The parts department was no help to me, so I'm leaving it to you guys. I would like to replace them with a nicer lens if possible, as they are pretty beat-up! I'm almost sure they would fit? Any input would be great!

I've got a 97, and the windows were just tinted. From what I've understood about Lexus cars, BMW's, and some other European cars, the tint will cause loss of AM signal due to metallic film? I haven't really noticed any problems other than I had to put a different film on because the film didn't like to conform to the larger than normal defrost lines? I thought this might be interesting to here any problems you guys may have encountered with this for future reference.

The bottom line here, is that no matter what tranny maintenance you do, you need to drop the pan and inspect it for wear by way of the magnets is vital. The whole point is to catch it before worse things happen. It is much cheaper to replace things, before it causes more damage to other vital areas! Just doing a drain and fill won't tell you anything! I would think that its a form of cheap insurance. So telling other people its a wast of time to check/clean, or replace the metal screen is NOT good advice!

This is killing me to hear all this! I can't believe that nobody has bothered to get any information from a reputable transmission shop. True, you may be able to get the fluid clean which may indeed clean up areas- thus causing more problems. However, your missing the fact that the clutches inside wear out, along with other intricate parts, and the torque converter- some even the OD. I've changed my fluid when I bought mine, and I would suggest going through the previous threads on this- because of the same questions are brought up. Anyway, the tranny started to slip soon after the drain and fill. Yes, the pan was dropped and checked for any metal shavings- None! It was just dirty, and the previous owner decided that no ATF changes were needed? A month later it began to smell and sound very badly, so I took it in and dropped the pan. It had metal shavings, and was toasty hot! She was done, and I stuck a fork in her! I couldn't sell the car, and the thought of keeping it -only to replace it with a used one didn't sit well with me. Also, having one of the big name tranny companies try to put a mass produced replacement from another car didn't sit well with me either! I had a local reputable shop, "LELIS AUTOMATIC" tear it down and rebuild it completely with carbon fiber clutches, rebuild kit, and new torque converter at the tune of $2300. After break in period, all the fluids were replaced with appropriate Dexron level synthetic ATF. The shifts are firm and smooth! Very quiet, and cool! So, if you want to keep changing the fluid- it may be a good band-aid for you! But, plan to have it fixed soon. Oh ya, don't forget to tell the buyer what you've done if you decide to sell it!

The point of doing the drain and fill, (which should be done every 15,000 miles)- is to inspect the filter (which has magnets on it) for any metal particles. This is will notify you of any problems! If you just go and have it drained or flushed without inspecting the pan, your wasting your time. The dealership's don't really know anything about the tranny's anyway- as they will outsource the repair, or do swap. All they can do is drain, and flush! I would just have them inspect the pan, along with a drain and fill with a good synthetic like Mobile One. To get it changed over cheaply, simply change it one more time when you do your next oil change- by then it should be mostly synthetic. Unless, you have some metal in the filter that shows premature wear! Good Luck!

I was at the dealership last night, and noticed that a newer ES 300 had some driving lights that were clear (like the headlights). The ones on my 97' are more opaque, and kind of older looking. It looks like they are the same shape, and size? Have any of you tried to upgrade them to a newer year? I tried to look up the information in the parts book, but I'm unsure of what I'm looking at. I don't know the year of the car I looked at, but I'm sure it was the later of the model.

Thanks! That worked great, I was able to do it last night, and didn't break anything!

I just had my windows tinted a couple weeks ago, and noticed that they must have gotten some cleaning solution into the 3rd brake light housing in the back deck. I can't figure out how to get the cover off without breaking it, and the company who tinted the windows will take no responsibility for it! I know there are some stereo guys on this site who may know how to take this off? Any help would be great!! Thanks Mucho!

While your in getting the mounts done, you might as well do the struts. I have a feeling you'll be wishing you did. Mine has 110k on it too, and they were shot! It is much more refined than before. If you wait, you'll just have to have them tear it all apart again, and have another alignment done. May as well save the money?

Doesn't sound like you've ever owned a truck before?? Just kidding, but I do wonder about a stiff ride? I just did the struts in my 97' with KYB's, and it still isn't nearly stiff enough. They forgot to change the strut mounts while in there, and I have to go back because the noise is driving me crazy! They cost about 67$ a piece plus labor to install-though since they forgot will void the labor charge for me. So if you do it all at the same time, it will save you about $100. The strut replacement alone cost me $350. Still very worth it, even though not as stiff as I would like it.

They did it on TLC's program called "Rides"- to a newer IS-300. I believe, they dropped a Supra six speed tranny, with a LS-400 V8 along with the LS's computer which had to be reprogrammed to trick the computer somehow?? They didn't go into great detail about it, unfortunately! I believe it was Chip Foose who designed it, and had his engineer go over- correct me if I'm wrong. Sounds very expensive, and you may as well by a Supra.

This is a huge Toyota problem all the way down the line! I've owned every model of Toyota, including trucks- they all do it! As far as what is causing it- It too is all the same! If you notice, the problem usually takes a while to occur. I finally figured out with the help of a great Toyota Guru, that it was the build-up of dirt on a small plastic piece located at the top of your door pillar. IT IS NOT YOUR BELT TENSIONER! This is kind of hard to explain, but I'll do my best without any pictures: If you follow your belt, as if your in the drivers seat- with your left hand, go up to the door just before it goes behind the panel. You will see a small plastic piece that the belt passes through. Everybody good so far? GOOD, now- what happens is, it will get some build up from friction/dirt/grease from your hand. If you take some emry paper used for sanding, and kind of lightly sand it down- it will go though much better! This should let it go up when taking your seatbelt off, though not as good as some other car manufactures. If you take it to a dealer with a good tech, they should be able to figure it out. If not, send me an e-mail, and I can help! Sometimes, I wish that Toyota would get together with the European's/German's to produce better door hinges- that don't let the door close on you, as well as better seatbelts! Maybe they could at the same time get with the American's to learn how to make more horsepower? Oh, well! I hope this helps guys!

It's the same as Camry, and definitely change the rubber mounts while at it! They cost around $70 a piece- they will make noise after a while. I just did my front struts with KYB $78ea. and $90 for installation, alignment was $50. After taxes, it was just under $350 for the front. So far the Toyota dealer is much better to work with in my experience.

When you do suspension work, you can encounter a "seating" that should go away after a little driving. My front struts did that for a couple days after replacing them.

VERY BAD IDEA guys, I know it sounds like it's an easy way to do it, but your missing the point!!!! I can't stress this enough!!!! The entire reason that you take it in to have the pan dropped, is to have them inspect it for metal particles on the magnets- on the pan! How can you tell if your going to have problems unless you drop the pan, and clean the flippin filter?!! It's not worth it, just because it may be quicker for you now. I should be glad that some people are even changing the fluids at all- so, I guess I should say keep up the good work!

I think I've read a coupld posts about changing badging to different styles: chrome/pearl/gold. I'm looking to take mine off all together, and wondered if anyone has done it to a 97'. I'm a little concerned that it may leave some holes in the body- where they are attatched? Does anyone know if it's clean, with no holes under the emblems? I may later replace with the black pearl, but for now I would prefer it to be clean looking. Any help would be great! (My body shop doesn't seem to know unless removed, and I don't have the money to buy a different color yet).

Well guys, thats what I get for buying a used car. I kind of feel like an idiot for selling my other one? I guess you never really know- no matter how much investigation you put into a used vehicle. Soon after buying my 97' the tranny began to smell hot! I made sure all of the vital fluids were replaced, and thought it was just from being on the highway for a long time? As I discussed on a previous post, the tranny began making noises- and not holding a gear as it should. After having the pan dropped, and inspected- they found some metal shavings on the magnets, and agreed that it was not shifting properly and also thought the overdrive may be having problems.(3 months after purchase- 110k miles). After tearing it down, they found worn out clutches, and needing a torque converter, and some other rebuild misc parts and fluid replacement- the overdrive was fine. I ended up getting the national warranty for three years, and much better service than any dealership-as they would only use a used or something rebuilt from some other vehicle, not knowing what was done to it. I know exactly what was done to my car, and have much better parts- that I requested: like carbon fiber clutch discs etc. It feels much firmer, holds a gear much better, and shifts smoother- better now that I just had them change it all over to synthetic! The total cost came to $2375 with the nationwide warranty. I'm still *BLEEP*ed that I had to put the money into my "commuter car", but I feel that it will last for years to come. I also learned that from talking to many people about this situation: NOBODY realizes that your tranny needs to be regularly serviced!!! Please get yours done- and if you haven't, and you try to sell your car- TELL the person you sold it to! Because they will have to pay for your ignorance! Can you tell I'm still *BLEEP*ed- they guy that owned my car did no service to the tranny at all!@*#@ The guy before him did the 30k only. I hope this helps you guys in the future, and I want to appologize for my understandable hostility as stated. PS: I still wish it were a five speed!

Sounds like someone hasn't used any leather conditioners over the years? You may want to use some Lexol leather treatments on the leather that's still good to prevent more problems. Hopefully you can get some leather to match- unsure of cost. Good luck man!

I've asked about this before with NOT a lot of feedback? I think most people don't care about upgrading the stereo for some reason (besides a couple I shoud say). From what I've learned, if you use the stock location, and replace the stock size 8" free air- you won't get much out of it. Not many companies make them, and you'll probably need to get a bigger amp just for the woofer. The local stereo shop here suggested removing the stock woofer, and using the location as home for a port- and run a nice box in the trunk. If you find out something that works better let me know, as I may be interested too.

Here's the deal: The dealership told me that they only use remanufactured units, which kind of scares me (for the amount of money). They also gave me the option of a used tranny, if they can find one? They are looking today, and should call me back soon. So, my boss happens to married to the guy who owns a local (highly reputable) shop. The son kind of runs the show down at this shop, and he went on to explain how they have to use a factory overdrive piece. Then they completely go throught the whole thing, and replace any seals, or hoses etc. Apparently, the tranny fix isn't too bad, but the labor is what kills ya. They will have to drop the sub-frame, exhaust, strut mounts, lower the motor etc.... It's not as bad as they make it out to be, but I'm sure it's more complicated than you average Ford Explorer/ Dodge Caravan special. Even with my "good-buddy" discount, the very least could be around $2500? I'll let you guys know what the cost of the used one would be with install. Thanks for the input@!

:( Yep, final verdict is in today: It's toast! My Lexus is not a good investment after all! It will end up costing between $2700-3100. The overdrive is about gone, and the rest I'll know when, and if they tear it down. Sad day today guys!

Ya the Toyota dealership works on them, no problem! Most of the mechanics are Toyota/Lexus certified, and get the parts from the same place. As far as the ES 300 is concerned, it's "95% the same as the Camry" as the mechanic's told me. I've been getting mine done at Toyota the whole time! It's like taking Lincoln to the Ford shop, or a Volkswagon to the Audi shop! No biggy! You'll generally save more money, from my experience. Good Luck!

My 97' has 110k on it, and the struts are shot! The suggested replacement for OEM shocks are around 60k miles? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think struts were built much different. I've done all my trucks before they die, just cause of the crappy ride. Aftermarket ones are much better, and I think you would like ride a whole lot more! Seems like these guys here have had luck with the stockers for around 100k miles?

:o I've seen a lot of information about tranny problems on this site, and started having some of my own the last couple of weeks! I didn't think anything of it, until one day on the freeway: It felt as if my foot slipped off the gas pedal, and quickly went back- the only problem is that I didn't take my foot off the pedal! So far, this has happened four different times- all at highway speeds (50-75mph). Then today as I came to work, I heard a loud noise resembling a semi-truck downshifting! I thought a semi was behind me, as I looked around- NO TRUCK! I soon realized it was comming from my car, and it quickly went away as I tuned down another street about 15ft later???? (kind of thought the manifold came loose, then realized it was sounding like it was beneath me). I called my service rep, and he said it doesn't sound good! My car has 110,000 miles on it now, and I had a tranny service about 2 months ago (about 4qts new fluid). Engine sounds great, fresh synthetic oil, no modifications, complete services! I thought back, and remembered my 4Runner had problems- ending up being a sensor, and shifted fine ever since? I hope thats all it is! I don't want to put big dollars into this car! Any help would be great guys! Got off the phone and found out that these tranny's have had problems with the overdrive giving out (as some of you may have experienced). This may be the initial signs of the car not wanting to stay in overdrive?? The mechanic at Lelis Transmission suggested a check that involves dropping the pan, and inspecting for metal. No check engine lights have come on, so no codes would be present. He also told me it could be anywhere from $2300-3100 to go through it (having not looked at it, it's merely a ballpark). Side note: all you synthetic guys out there- "Running synthetic in the tranny is a good idea, and won't cause any problems" as stated from Toyota's mechanic's and the highly recommended tranny shop. Any input?

I've been running "Hawk" brand pads on my trucks, and love them. I'm not sure if they make them for the Es 300 or not? They claim less brake dust, and better bite, I'm not sure if it's semi-metalic, or ceramic? I've also heard that the Raybestos QS is a great pad?