tundra-lover

My 97' uses a 22" and an 18", but they didn't have any 18's in stock so I just used a 19" and a 21" which works fine.

I like the stock replacements my self- cheaper. But, I've used the Michelin with good luck, and the PIAA's look really nice if you want to drop $20 a piece. Rain X works great, just make sure you buy the paste style! I have changed over to some similar stuff in a purple bottle, I think it's made by Castrol?? Its much easier to take off!

Touche'! Point taken. 10k vs. 100+k with a Rolls.

Check all door seams, like behind the side mirrors and below the window trim in door jam area.

I'm 28. This has been interesting to read, more young people than I thought. I'm also interested to hear the coments. like: people buying the car because of its "prestige?" It's the most rediculous thing I've heard! That is the one thing I've not like about owning my ES 300- every time I tell someone what it is, they think it's some expensive tricked out car? It's a nice car, and I would hope that people bought it for a better reason than prestige. Most of us have had to work hard for our first form of transportation, and to have a car like ours first should be seen as fortunate. I grew up poor, and had to find alternate forms of transportation, as well as ride my bike to work and school. A car was seen as luxury to me. In my little mind, our cars should be seen as dependable, strong runners with a long track record. I've had many cars since the early days, and the last few (no I'm not going to list them) have happily been Toyota and will be till my eighties! I'll get off my soap box now.

If it's not in writting at the time of purchase, you can usually forget it. They just want to make a sale. As for the CPO thing, its just another way to make more money off used sales. I would suggest to most people not getting it unless it's a ford or chrysler product. Just remember you have seven days to take it back by law (depending on your state) if you run into any problems, and you can remind the dealer of that as well. For the dings, you can have them fixed by a mobile dent repair company for around $30 per dent. The little dings, you can do yourself with factory touch-up paint from the parts counter or body shop. Probably wouldn't hurt to have it looked at (free) by the body shop to ensure a wreck-free car. (piece of mind).

Sounds like a good deal, very rare find. I would have it checked out by your local Lexus/Toyota shop for any needed repairs, and also run it by a body shop to see if has had any major work done. The body shops can usually tell if the whole side or end has been replaced or repainted due to collision- one thing to notice are the little stickers with the vin# on each inside panel. This will notify you of original parts.

I used Bosch, Purolator, Mobil 1, K&N, and sometimes the OEM Toyota one. The funny thing about Toyota is that they all use the same filter. So, I would just by a case of them as the 4Runner, Tundra, Tacoma, and ES all take the same number. It made things a little easier. I know these are all pretty good filters, and most will give you an effeciency percentage on the side of the box. Most of these are around 98% I think? The other thing to look for is an anti-drainback valve. Cost is anywhere from $5-10.

If they're leaking, yes it's time to replace. If you don't the tire will just bounce up and down fairly free when driving. If you needed to preform some evasive manuevering, you could run into problems? For now, it sounds like it may just be a crappy bouncy ride. Definitely do the mounts while your at it, the old ones can make noise.

I said $40 more. That means add the 40 to the 160 and you get $200 for timing belt install! Comprende'? I would rather have them preform the labor. Don't you guy's get the little brochures for different maintenance offered at your local shop. I get one every couple of months? It has a coupon for timing belts for $189 plus tax along with other services like plugs etc.... I had my timing belt, and several other things done. Infact I pulled the receipt, and the timing belt cost $220 out the door. You do the math.

They willl not replace your muffler with a stock OEM muffler, unless you order it from Lexus. Brakes? I don't know, or really trust the shop around here. I would rather buy the pads I want my self, like some Hawk or Raybestos QS, or OEM.

$15. Not worth it! And no, they do not usually carry any synthetic oil unless one of the tech's happen to have a case of it. It's easy enough to do, you can do it!

I like the stock Solar option for the strut bar. I think its like $70 from Toyota.

For $40 more, you can have it installed for you at the dealership.

Call them, they need to hear it bro! Try going to the Toyota shop, much better for me.

I like that, "stealership!" Thats great! Why would you want to use a stock pad with a Brembo rotor? Why not a set of Hawk, or at least some Raybestos QS? I think you may be able to get some Raybestos rotors that are slotted/drilled for that car for a little cheaper.

I wouldn't believe all the here-say about different oils. The reason people were having some leaks with synthetic was because they had build-up in the motor, which was cleaned out by the synthetic. The build-up they had before that was stopping a leak was removed causing the synthetic to slip on by. The synthetic, from what I understand is refined down to a finer molecule, which helps lubricate smaller channels better- which is great for hot and cold. Highly recommended by many manufacturers now. I personally have never seen anybody who has changed over come up with a leak, infact in some cases it has stopped leaks? As far as the blends, I say crap or get off the pot! Either go one or the other.

To reset a code, you have to take it to the Lexus or Toyota dealership. Did you disconnect the battery before installing the newe one? I would probably stick with the one's designed for the ES.

It would help, as posted before to run the fresh air on high with the AC off before you shut the car down- to let the condensation evacuate.

I'm running a 225/55/16 on my 97'. I had some rub issues in the back, but it was a simple fix. It may not rub on yours depending on the backspacing? If it does, it would be the rear fender trim (the black piece that screws onto the fender). The other area that rubbed was the lower front side plastic molding (on my car it's painted the silver grey color) at the very top. I wish I had pic's to explain better. When I say rub, I mean by a couple mm's at the most. You shouldn't have a problem, if you do just take a dremmel to it. It is also much easier to remove those pieces from the car, and grind them down just a bit and reinstall. My problem could also be do to the struts/springs allowing the car to nearly bottom out in the back with a loaded car. Since thats the only time it did it. Well worth the looks!

Well, I don't pay much attention to going by the manual. I think some things need more attention- one of them being the oil. I for one change mine sooner than later. Usually around 4000 or so, which I can do in three months. I can definitely tell a difference when changed- both in color, feel and sound in the valve train. I wouldn't go much longer than that. It also will usually need a quarter of a quart during that time. I also don't care much for testing my oil, and know its better than the stock Toyota oil. Lets get off the legal talk- Its like being at work. I go here to get away, and try to be of some sort of assistance. Makes me feel a little better at the end of the day.

Sounds like your looking at the tranny drain plug- not the oil drain plug, which is on the pasenger side.

Even if it didn't read any oil, you still have oil. In some cases you can be only a quart 1/2 low when the dipstick reads low or nothing at all. I hope it was only briefly or just the fact it wasn't in all the way, but if the engine light didn't come on your probably fine. I just get in the habit of checking the oil everytime I fuel up.

Wow! I think we get the point with the whole Amsoil thing, and those who want to persue it- Have a good time with what ever you choose. Many people have had good luck with it. I have never tried it, and am happy with Mobil 1 or what ever I can get the best group buy price on. I've ran Red Line, Royal Purple, and Mobil 1 with very similar results. Many of my friends are weekend racers with NASCAR at our local track, and are strong advocates to these oils. After tearing down an engine, you can then tell a bigger difference in synthetic performance. I also like the way the car runs smoother and valve train is more quiet on the daily driver, not to mention my increase in mileage.

I'll see if I can get some pic's this weekend if it doesn't rain. When I went to the gas station last night, the AutoTrader listed a few with very similar miles and options from $10,500- $12500. The newspaper had none. And yes, I'm very familiar with all the different price guides. I've also never sold a car under High book before, usually I sell them for more than book in less than a couple weeks(so far 11 vehicles). Ya, I don't want to sell it after fixing so many things, but I'm having a problem getting used to it. I'm just not sure. But I know I don't want to buy another vehicle just to repair it as well? Specially if I can't sell it for a good enough price. I'll probably be able to sell it, but have to make payments on the tranny for another year? Looks like I'll have to rethink this one? Thanks!