tundra-lover

I heard that same thing, and have been doing it for a few years with no problems! Just turn the fan on high with the AC off in the fresh air setting usually does the trick. You can really tell if you don't let it out, and get back in the car and turn it on vent. Side note, for us guys running a 97' model year: I know a couple of us have tried to change out our cabin filter with no luck. I know there is one just right of the gas pedal, but my mechanic couldn't figure- or me for that matter- how to get it out to replace it???? I know it's replacable, because the parts counter shows it as a repalcable filter. They didn't know about it till I showed it to them! The thing has 114k miles on it, and probably looks pretty darn nasty! Anybody changed it yet?

It's a common problem with the 3.0 V6 motors, and I had the same. We ended up pulling off the entire throttle body, and cleaning it. It still didn't help much- but it was dirty, so it was nice to have it cleaner. Sometimes you get a sticky throttle cable, and can be replaced. I ended up sending the throttle body out to Downey in California, and they bored and polished it for about $350. It ran like brandnew after that, and idled around 700rpm. Adjusting the set screw is kind of a bandaid for now.

The Lexus market is geared toward the 40+ age market! And of those buyers, the majority want an automatic- They don't want to shift! It was never designed for young buyers, along with the other Toyota line-ups like the Runner, and Tundra. I've called, and written letters complaining about it- They don't care about the 5% who want manual tanny's. Besides, the price on the newer line-up is more than most young people will ever make in a few years. I too hate the automatic, but we have no choice, unless our last name says "Foose" or something like that- so we could afford to put a Supra six-speed/computer upgrade in our car. But I would just rather have the Supra! Some of the companies are getting the point, but from what I hear, they will be coming out with a GT Lexus line-up for 06'. You can check out the article in the latest Road and Track, or Car and Driver- can't remember, but it's this months.

You need to have a shop look at it, and drop the pan to inspect for metal shavings on the magnets. And, most tranny shops do not transfer the warranty to the next owner. They can also check it for codes, did you get a check engine light? In some cases, you can keep flushing the system every time it starts to slip untill you can afford to replace the tranny? The dealership won't be of much help to you at all, as they can only replace it. So, I would find a reputable tranny shop in town, and witness the pan for your self! You could be looking a new overdrive as well- if the whole thing needs to be replaced it could cost $2400. Oh, ya! You need to check the tranny when its at operating temp, not cold. If they changed it, I'm sure it was just a drain and fill- about 4 quarts.

First of all, they don't dissable the alarm- they just don't care! If they want it, it only takes a minute to get what they want- and your left with the alarm still going! I don't really understand what you mean by "aftermarket systems screw up the electrical, and don't work right anyway." The factory alarms are a nice deterant to some, but most people like the keyless entry it provides. Most thieves will go to a car without an alarm first anyway. One of the benifits to an aftermarket is, you can have shock sensors placed about anywhere, remote start, GPS alert- like with High Jack, remote engine shut-off, blah blah blah.... just about anything you want! And yes! There are very good systems out that also come with a remote that will page you when something happens to your vehicle, and also show you on the remote what area of the vehicle it was done to! You can add to the one you have- like remote start for $200, or just bypass the stock system, and put in a better one for around $400-800. Most places will stand by the work done, and offer warranty's.

I think I know what your talking about, but can you be more specific? They are softer than some cars out, but the steering has always been known for accurate feel. For example the latest test with Car and Driver with the IS 300 compared to several other cars in same category. The only thing you can do, if they offer the parts is polyurethane bushings, coil-overs/struts, and a TRD Strut brace- or factory Solara suspension support (aka strut brace), and maybe some higher performance wheels/tires. These will all help with steering feel, but do you want to pay for it not knowing if it will be the "better" feel your looking for? They don't seem to offer much for these cars- to many people (old) satisfied with marginal performance, an automatic tranny, and enough room for their golf bags- (no offence)!

This is kind of interesting to hear that it is much the same problems with other models of Toyota. I had heard the same thing with this in the Tundrasolutions site, and they ended up posting a fix that had something to do with the way the window track held the window? I'll have to check it out, and see how they did it- My Tundra was fine, so I didn't pay much attention to it.

From what I remember about it, its 6years or 100k miles. But! Yes- But, you have to completly flush ALL of the other fluid! They say its compatible, but from what the mechanics at Toyota say- they wouldn't suggest the expense of changing it out, and to just use the 2year stuff that came with the car. I'm not sure of the implications if not completely changed out, but it doesn't sound like its worth it.

I have just called the parts department at Toyota, and they can call for a Lexus part and then see if it's the same as what they have? They usually get it from the same wharehouse. You have to get in with someone at the counter- kind of buddy buddy, and they will usually help you out!

From what I've heard at Toyota, it's good for six years! I was waiting for it to come out to do my car, but it needed to be changed before it came out- so, I'll wait for next year to change over to it.

First of all, your dealing with a bunch of idiots overthere! It *BLEEP*es me off just hearing about it! It's all the same parts as the Camry, and I had mine done from my Toyota mechanic because he is Lexus/Toyota cerfied- not that it matters, and it cost me the same as all my other Toyota vehicles- $189 plus tax ($220 out the door)! You can take your car to any Toyota shop, and get the same damn price as for the Camry. Infact, you can have them talk to my service advisors Manager, and he will explain it to them if you'd like? 801-363-0595 @ Mark Miller Toyota. Oh, if they decide to charge more, make sure they tell you what it includes, as some company's like Honda will also do the drive belts and water pump at the same time- which only costs about $450. Good luck bro! And one more thing, your motor is a "non-interferance" motor, so if you break the Timing belt- it won't hurt anything- unlike Nissan, Honda etc. But the suggested mileage for a ES 300 V6 is at 80k miles ( I bought mine at 110k miles and changed it then).

Thanks steviej, I did try to look at all the lines and check the sound level at different rpm levels without much luck. I ended up having my Lexus/Toyota mechanic go through it after work yesterday. He took it for a spin, and then put it on the little computer. From what he said, it showed no error codes, or any other problems. No engine light came on, but I told him it defintely sounds different? He suggested that I just keep an eye on it for a while, and it may surface later. I just hope its nothing serious! No charge to me, so I feel a little better. We'll see what happens!

Hey guys, I normally drive with the stereo and air on, so I don't hear much from the motor. Not that you can usually hear the motor anyway! In the past I've paid attention to how the motor runs, and it's alway been smooth and quiet. Almost everything has been replaced in the past few months I've owned it, and I'm now up to 114,500 miles. The car idles a little rougher, and you can kind of hear a kind of extra bit of "air" almost as if I were running a cold air intake, or had a belt rubbing a little bit? I'm worried it may be something major like a bearing, or a valve- although I'm unsure of what that might sound like? After noticing the noise yesterday, I called the dealership for an appointment. If anyone can help re-asure me that it may not be anything major, please help! I'll try and keep you posted after my appointment today! It's just that everything on this car has been a major repair, and I can't handle anymore. Thanks :cries:

Ya, steviej is right! You need to stick it to them overthere! I would take it to the service manager for sure.

You might want to broaden your search to include a Toyota mechanic, as some of them are certified in both areas.

Sorry, I should have said a difference in 3mpg not mph. I do have a side note: Interestingly, in recent local news segment, they spoke of gas mileage. From what I gathered, there is no difference in the station BRAND of fuel- as tested here in Salt Lake City Utah. It all came from the same place! Some of them did have some different additives, but there results showed no benefit to upgrade your octane level unless specified in your owners manual (for example: supercharger, turbo, high compression). In other words, if you wanted more performance, and changed from 87 octane to 92 octane- THERE WERE NO PERFORMANCE GAINS. I think someone here posted a section in our manuals stating the car didn't require high octane. This being said, and since I'm at a higher elevation, I haven't noticed any changes with running the 87 octane vs the higher octane. So, I guess I'll just keep running the cheap stuff!

Almost every Toyota made has had rear spring issues, and they start to sag. I've had the same problems with mine, and have been in the process of looking for an aftermarket replacement. The problem is, all of them have a 1" drop, and they all talk to me like I'm crazy to want the stock ride height. They may make an aftermarket coil-over style that you could leave in the stock position? It would probably cost as much as a stock replacement- I'm guessing? In the past with other sites, they would contact a company like Eibach, and suggest a group buy. Someone like them could custom fit a set for your car, and they may already have some that would work, that are made for a different vehicle. Other than that route, I'm kind of out of in-expensive ideas! Anybody else been through this?

I think one of the problems I just noticed was that your running a Bosch plugs in a Toyota! That is a No, No for foreign vehicles. I would be willing to guarantee a instant change if you change back to a Denso plug, and I would suggest running an iridium plug. Usually in past experience, it has caused more problems using the American plugs in a Japanese motor! Good luck with it, and I think most of us would be interested in the results.

Sounds about the same as here in Salt Lake City. I do remember spending about $25 per dent and $75 per panel a few years ago, but eventhough it costs more now, I highly recommend it!

I've only noticed a difference of around 3mph if I run the car hard? For the most part, I get 20-21mpg every time around town, and the last all freeway drive to California with the cruise set on 85-95mph the whole way with the AC on, I got 28mpg. My 97 is mostly stock, with synthetic Mobile 1 oil and tranny fluid, new iridium plugs, RedLine Water Wetter and new coolant, new paper air filter, 91 octane, and tires aired up properly. I'm contemplating a new re-usable air filter?

Nice Job! I love the car, and your tastefull choice in application. I was just looking for some nice wheels, and found that the Enkei looked the best. I really liked the ones you chose, and wondered if they were 7" or 8" wide? Also, what size tire did you run? I would also like to change mine to Windom emblems, but don't know where to get them? If not, I'll just paint my emblems pearl black.

Thanks!

Funny you brought this up, as I was just headed down to have my mounts done. They just did the KYB struts on my 97' and it still sounded like something was wrong. We found out it was the mounts for sure, and had them price it out for me at the Toyota shop, as they are also Lexus certified. The mounts are the same as the 97' Camary, and the cost was about $62 per side, and the labor was free because they felt bad about not catching it earlier. I don't think the labor should be more than a couple hours, plus the alignment cost. The only thing is, that you'll be wanting to replace the struts in while anyway. They made a big difference in handling in my car @ 110k miles. So, I would definitely do them both for sure! Its cheaper to do it at the same time.

Thanks for the info, and one more thing... I just wondered if anyone knows at what point did they change from my 97' style driving light (opaque) to the newer "clear" looking lens? I thought maybe 99', but I may have to go back to the dealer and ask what year their car is. Last week I had the parts department look up the picture (blow-up) of a 99' and a 97' driving light to compare the fitment. They look identical, but I don't know if they used the clear lens that year or not? If anyone is running a 99', can you tell me if your driving lights (a.k.a. fog lights) are clear or more opaque with verticle lines.

That would be a nice theory, but not always the case- no matter what shop, or who works on it. I've owned enough Toy's to know who's honest here, and happen to be close friends with my local Toyota/Lexus tech. I'm also very good friends with the owner of the tranny shop I had to take it to. I've seen what they did, and know the parts that were damaged. Only those damaged parts were replaced. No sensors, but Oh ya, if it were- the codes would read when they do the diagnostic! Usually when it smells like a refinery melting down, you have a problem not solved by fluid change. And yes the fluid level was CORRECT! So, you can take this information for what it is. Unfortunately for me, I bought a car that was not poperly maintained.