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tundra-lover

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Everything posted by tundra-lover

  1. Thanks for the update, although I already am aware of the VVT!!! I was mearly asking for a more elaborate answer than what was available. I appreciate the input and am aware of this not being an available option for any future use without heavy modification.
  2. I don't think it is covered on the body? I is usually only the first three year, or 36k. Mine is doing the same thing, and I was thinking about clearing it my self. If you take it to a shop it shouldn't cost very much. Since you live out in SLC, I would highly recommend Wasatch Body and Paint- down town. They only work on high end vehicles.
  3. I get the gist of what your sayn', but I'm not sure I understand what you mean? You say that the Camry doesn't have the correct heads, or intake- but TRD makes it for the Camry 97-01? Doesn't sound like it's worth the money, but doesn't it add around 75hp and 75lb ft to the 3.0? So I think the 97' makes 210hp, but what does the Camry version make without the Charger? I don't think a big hp gain would be good on the front drive anyway? Interesting....guess that means nobody has done it?
  4. Ya, it was $3500 plus install. But the one for my Tundra goes for $5000 plus install, and they told me it wasn't going to be released (again) for another month. I guess the had a problem with the ecu not reading properly, so they had to make a new ecu to go with it. Hood clearance could be an issue on the ES? I guess it does slope a little more.
  5. Yup, my Lexus is built in Japan. You can tell if your is buy looking at the vin #. If it starts with a J, its made in Japan. If it starts with a 2 it's usually made in Canada, and most 1, sometimes 2, and 4 are usually made in N America. Maybe it was built on a Friday? Good luck bro!
  6. I'm not looking to buy one, or at least not at this time. I was looking at some TRD performance stuff, and found the supercharger for the 97-01 Camry 3.0 V6 and wondered if anyone had put one on? I'm guessing the intake might be a little different since the hp #'s are a little different with the two? I also wonder if the computer is different- the tech's here aren't sure. Any Idea's?
  7. That's what happens when they don't build them in Japan anymore!
  8. Thanks for the input jragosta! No pretending here? (The kettle is black) btw: My fantasies include women.
  9. Its kind of funny how this argument comes up on every vehicle related site! We will always have two kinds of poeple: Conservative (dyno oil, paper filter, stock everything etc..) and the more Extreme who use things to add more power, better looks, and go out on a limb and live a little with some synthetic oil or some drop springs. With my vehicles, some would have called me crazy with what I've done. Its just how I am, and don't care what anybody else thinks. I will always want more of something, just because I can. So, what! I'll buy a re-oilable filter any day of the week. I've never had a problem for the past 10 years I've run them, and don't really care if do. I've heard all the facts, and seen all the analysis- its not that big of a deal.
  10. Yup! It is weird? All of the Toyota's I've bought have come that way? I just thought the Denso, and NGK were the same company? I would stay away from American plugs- they don't work well with Japanese motors.
  11. Here in Utah, we have a law for vehicle purchase that states a return policy up to seven days after purchase. You may want to also check out your local laws, just incase you run into some problems. Sounds like your doing a good job! Oh, if you decide you like one you may want to stop by a local body shop to have them check it out. A lot of delearships will buy them wrecked, and the shop can tell you exactly what has been replaced or painted (for your own benefit).
  12. Your car comes stock with 3 Denso, and 3 NGK from the factory (might be the same manufacturer). If you buy the non-iridium plugs, you'll just need to change them every 15k miles instead of 100k. You won't notice any performance gain.
  13. It's no big deal? I don't know what these guys are talking about? You should disconnect the battery, but the computer will take a few hundred miles to change the air/fuel mixture. Some people will over oil the filter causing the mass air sensor to be covered in a film of oil. All you need to do is clean it off, or try not to oil so much. I can kind of see what they would be talking about, as the hp numbers aren't that great, but I like cleaning mine instead of buying new ones. They have done tests with several manufactures in the past with claims of different contaminants in the oil? It's always going to be better with stock, but if you change your oil you shouldn't have a problem.
  14. It's time for another windshield, this time for the ES! I've been looking around, and can't seem to find one without the green tint strip accross the top? Does anyone know a company that might have one without? I would really like one with a grey or bronze tint, but non would be fine. I have mine tinted at the tint shop, and the laws here regulate the strip to the AS1 line. Because of that, you have a nice green strip left! I don't really like it, and can't find anyone to do the tint illegally anymore. Where have you guys gone to get your replacements from? OEM, PPG?
  15. Well, not alway true. I've leased a few cars, and ended up selling them before the lease was up- for sometimes much more than owed, and usually pocketing up to $3000. I haven't leased in a couple years, but I'm not sure how good the rates are anymore? The trick is to get a car with high demand, and only lease max of 3 years. I still think buying used is the best from experience.
  16. All of your window's should be the same unless its been replaced with aftermarket. The rear window defrost is not garanteed to work, but I've had it done on a dozen of my vehicles in the past with no problem. You need to be cautious of what kind of tint to buy on the back window. With European cars and Toyota's, they use an extremely thick defrost line, and the thickness of the tint will cause it not to lay down as well as some. When I bought my ES300, I had to have it re-done several times before they got it down correctly. I'm not sure of what brand the used, but I do know that the metallic film on the back doesn't lay down very well. It's OK to use on the side, but the shop I went to suggest the same kind the used on the BMW's that is a little thinner and easier to apply. The film they used for my side window's is made by Llumar, and I'm not sure if the back film is from the same line-up or not? But, it matches perfectly with the sides. I did 5% in the back, and 20% on the sides with a windshield strip. You may only like the 20% in the back- as it's kind of hard to get used to if you've never had tint that dark? When they take yours off, they will use a device to put moisture inbetween the film and the window to loosen it up before taking off. Shouldn't be a problem! I would also suggest taking your sub/light out of the back dash so they can cut a nicer line, as well as keep them from filling it with solution- they will not claim responsibility for that. You also might want to search online for the best films, maybe start with Llumar?? Good luck! Oh, the bronze is no longer available here either! I liked it too! Charcoal looks good.
  17. True, I stand corrected. Most of the new stuff is clear coated, and some metallic have triple and even four stage systems (pearl has 3). Most of the standard white Toyota (which I only buy) have been single stage. From what I understand, they pretty much all have clear now. I'm going from my own experience, and the point being that its still a pain to fix. Thanks for the heads-up!
  18. Its on the stock Lexus rim for a 97- the five spoke style, maybe 7" wide. The 215/65 looks kind of tall? My summer tires are a 225/55/16, and you can measure about 1" higher in the front, and I like the way the back sits now.
  19. I wanted to buy the Eibach 1" lowering springs (front only) for my 97', but I'm concerned that they won't work with my snow tires 215/65/15? Nobody around town seems to know anything about lowering Lexus/Toyota cars? I don't really want to put the money into it if I just have to pull them off again. Anybody have any ideas?
  20. Does anyone know if they make factory (painted) mud guards for a 97, or if the Solara ones would fit?
  21. OK, I think I can provide some info for you guys. The Clear Bra version is definetly not as good. I put it on my truck when it first came out in 98'. The Clear Bra version does discolor, and turn yellowish. I would highly recommend anther company like 3M. I've used 3M for this, and it is much better- I just wouldn't use thier window tint! I know a guy here in SLC that had his whole car done at Clear Bra, and ended up taking it all off and repainted his car. You also need to watch them place it on your car- They can cut your paint with a knife and not tell you about it, causing rust in the future! It goes on the same way window tint does, using a heat gun and wet solution to squeegy it into submision. But you should do it when the car is spakin new. Once you get a rockchip, you need to repair it unless you want to have problems in the future with it. If you decide you don't like it, you can have them peel it off. Its not a big deal, just expensive. For a cheaper route, you can just buy the Lexus bra- BUT only if your going to clean and wax the car very frequently, and plan on having a faint line where it goes accross the hood from vibration. As far as rock chips are concerned, welcome to the travisty of owning a virgin hood! I personally hate rockchips, but I drive the crappy freeway's in Utah! So far, I have had to repaint a number of hoods- and am very tired of it. I don't care as much any more. I just touch them up, and keep going. The whole color thing is a bunch of crap! Toyota paint is not the worst, just so you know. The problem is that they do a single stage system instead of a base coat clear coat. If you get a scratch in clear coat, you can buff it out a little nicer. Single stage, you have to be very careful not to go completly through the paint! I think what was suggested, is to have your hood clear coated? This would add another layer of protection, but it would also look a little different and not very cheap. Hope this helps.
  22. I've been doing this for a long time now, and for the best price guesstimate- I would highly recommend calling your bank. Your bank has what your area is using for loan values. Usually most areas use different value books such as Edmunds or Kelly, or my personal favorite and more acurate NADA which you can look up on NADA.com. The next thing I would recommend is looking at your local AutoTrader magazine to see what they are going for. The difference between areas can be as much as a couple grand. I would not suggest going to a dealership, unless its the Lexus dealership- only because they may have sunk some money into it. Other than that you will have no idea what services have been done unless the car was serviced there. Try to stick with a private owner, with RECORDS. I keep a personal notebook, and binder with every reciept and log for period I own a vehicle. I personally have never had a vehicle for sale longer than a week. Look also for a clean one, as the dirt can hide many inperfections that may come to light down the road. Maintained, these cars will go forever! Just don't get in a hurry, and settle for something. I just recently found a 95 with a little over 66k on it, and could have shot myself for not buying it. The best word of advice I can give, is make sure you get what you want to ensure your happiness. If you want leather, get it! etc.... I wouldn't get to worried about the miles as long as you know what work has been done to the car, and you can come up with a list of possible replacement parts in your future budget expenditures. When you go look at a car, take your notebook with you and note everything about the car: Do the tires look good, belts, brakes, tranny service, receipts etc... Then tally up the numbers, and pick the best one. If you are not sure, its a sign to keep looking. If they don't have any records, keep looking. Generaly, when you find the right one, you'll know it! Its kind of like shoping for a mate I guess? So that would make me more of a fisherman (can't keep a car for very long).
  23. Michelin makes some killer new wipers- mine are 21", and 18" for a 97' if I remember correctly? Does the 97' have the same summer/winter mode? After looking at the way they fit, how in the heck do they replace the windshield without messing up your hood?
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