smooth1

why are drilled rotors considered noy so good? what about the rusting thing? I didn't say they were not so good, I said they are more for track use, and if you want a good set, you'll have to spend a ton of money on it. The only real advantage on the street for drilled rotors is reduced weight. there is less spinning mass, so advantage goes to drilled rotors. And on the track, drilled rotors do remove more outgassing, and dissipate alot more heat, but there is no way your using your brakes that often and that hard on the street to be able to need that much. When we track race, we replace rotors based on hours of usage, and mm. thickness. And they are replaced regularly. That's why they have 2 peice rotors to help cut the replacement costs down. for the street, vented and slotted are more than sufficient. If you want more braking ability, then go to steel braided brake lines also, or step up to a larger caliper. As for the rust thing, all rotor faces rust. And if you spend enouph money on them, then you can afford to have the holes powder coated black, red, yellow or whatever. And if there is any rust in the holes, if your driving the car regularly, then it's not really a problem. Mine are usually spinning to fast for anyone to see them anyway. LOL!!! I have alot of friends that have drilled rotors, but most of them spend $3K or more on em and do it for the looks. I think it's a waste, but whatever.

Yeah, I think I've only ever had 1 bad one. And I've have used a bunch. ( All for different cars though.) I have never been a chemical tool user. Trying to fix stuff with some magic potion just never appeals to me. Not to say that some of those things don't work. But just to note, the BG44K won't fix any bad injector seals, or if the electromagnetic plunger just above the atomizer is bad.( Which is what I think.) It will only help if the injector is clogged or blocked, and even then it may not unclog it enouph to help. So if it doesn't work, or works temporarily, you may still have the same issues as before. But it's a cheap alternative. So what the hey right? Start there and maybe keep me up on how it's going and if the problem is resolved, what the issue ended up being? I generally try not to get to much into diagnostics over the website like this, as I don't have the motor in front me, and I can't run any scans and do some datalogging to see the problem for myself. And then go from there. It's generally alot harder to do it this way.

Hey there Is250 sexy Chic. Hmmm, well, while I certianly understand your frustration, but I don't think it's Lexus or the dealerships fault that there are nails and such on the roads which cause flat tires. And if the patch Goodyear put on is leaking, then I would take it back there and have them fix it right. And while your there, have them fix the other one. Also, keep an eye on the objects they are pulling out of your tires. I would ask for them back for collecting and inspection. If they look the same, then you might have a prankster leaning screws under your tires. If not, then maybe look for a different way to work. They have fix-a-flats and so on. Although you need to be careful what you use as some are corrosive to rims over time. Also make sure you do have the correct tire pressure as low tire pressure seems to pick up more stuff. And the reason you generally have a rear flat is because the front tires roll over the screws/nails/debris, and throw it back and then the rear tires roll over it. When the front tires first hit it, they are usually laying down and mostly harmless, but once in motion again, you increase the chances of rolling over the sharper edges.

If you go to the search feature, and put in nav+override, you'll get like 4 pages of related info and past discussions of this and others on the market and lots of people and their experiences.

I think your looking at brand new ones. I would get rebuilt ones. Try here: Mr. Fuel Injector I would just call em and tell then what year and model you have. I don't think they keep thier website up very well. I've bought other injectors from them that weren't even listed, and some were less then what the site said they would be. But you might want to just call around locally also. And ask if they come with the seals. They usually do, but I have gotten some that didn't.

They must gap them or have them specially gapped for Lexus at the dealerships then. ( I've never bought them from there before.) Hmm, I'll have to check into that.... As for the fuel filter, you'll have to take out the back seat and fold the rear section of the carpet forward. On the driver's side floor is a round metal cover with a wire harness running through it. Pry off the cover (it's glued on) to reveal the pump top. Remove the wire connector. Carefully remove the orange snap-lock from the fuel line, then pry the fuel line up and off. Remove the bolts and flange holding the pump in place, then pry the pump loose and lift straight up and out. The filter is on the pump. And don't smoke while your doing this! LOL!!

What other points did you touch on? And you think because I touch up my rock chips myself using professional tools for the repair I must not be to picky? Why?

Yeah, you have a fuel injector issue or a fuel pump/pressure issue. I don't think your coils are bad. Considering the mileage and age of the motor, I would suggest just replacing all of them and the seals. You can get a full set of 6 Denso fuel injectors for less than $150.00 retail, and I would just get a new fuel filter and replace that at the same time. I test the pressure of the fuel pump off the fuel rails with a small gauge, but I don't know how you would be able to that. I have a feeling if you replaced the injectors and the filter, you should be good to go afterwards. the reason it seems to run better at higher rpm's is becuase fuel has more pressure and is squeeking past the bad injectors, or the fuel filter is still able to allow enouph fuel by it when it has more force. Which is why once the rpm's fell from cold idle to warm idle it started to have problems again. I would also pull those plugs and check em. I know it's a PIA, but I have never seen a plug come out of the box that was correctly gapped for the Lexus motor. Pregapped plugs are almost allways .026-.028's. Lexus uses a .043 gap, or 1.1 mm. Which is huge!! I usually gap to around .040 though. So maybe pull the easiest one to pull, and check that one.........I almost bet they aren't right.

Hmmm, I'm not really sure your having a coilpack or spark plug issue. You may be having a fuel injector issue. And as for the transmission thing, I think the car just went into a limp mode or a safety protocal due to the cel being thrown. I have some questions if you could answer them would probably isolate the issue better: 1) If you reset the cel, and start the car, does the cel come on while idling? Or do you have to drive it? 2) Did you notice if you stayed under say like 3K rpms the car runs fine, but if you go over XXrpm then the cel comes up? 3) What gap did you use for the new plugs? 4) Have you checked the coils to make sure they are all still connected right and everything looks good? 5) have you run low on coolant or overheated the car recently? 6) Have you checked your fuel pressure and fuel pump?

Yeah man. I remember when I was a kid and he came out with "Live at Carnegie Hall." I never laughed so hard! I bought the tape and even to this day, I remember most of it word for word.

mediocre

Drilled rotors are ok, it's just that you have to spend a ton of money on a good set in order for them be any good and last any amount of real time. If your gonna try a save a few bucks on em, then skip it, and just go with slotted. Which are really better for the street anyway.

The problem I see with the Smart is the Nissan Versa has 52 more hp, a real back seat, gets the exact same gas mileage, and is $1500.00 less. Maybe not so Smart.

I was referring to #11023. They use it for a drying towel, I use it as a final wipe down polishing/buffing hand towel.

I just remove it by hand. But I only chose that because I thought the blue pad was a bit to expensive and the bonnets had to be purchased on top of that yet, and I like doing the final wipe downs by hand anyway. I really like thier microfiber towels. The gold color ones with the black edges is really nice, and I thought worth it once I got em and used em. I planned on getting another set.

What? I have several friends that work in and own body shops. One of my best friends specializes in high end custom paint jobs. And they allways get people calling with rock chip repair and light scratch removals. So they go out get the same kits you and I can get and fix them at an upcharge. Nobody is going to pay the outragous price it would cost to have a complete front 4" section across the hood painted, and reclear coated just for rock chips. Even the best painters have to blend and feather the edges of the new paint line. They would almost allways tell you that they would rather just paint the entire hood, so then they only have to color match, and not worry about blending so much. So your saying that rather than use less than a drop of paint to fix some rock chips, the only right way is to repaint the entire hood? Yeah.....I don't think so. I think the kits offer a very nice option. And as for the "young inexpereinced guy", that's why it takes more than just cracking open a phone book and calling the number that "sounds" good to ya, and setting an appointment. Sometimes you can get lucky and get the right guy the first time, but if you ask around, and talk to the right people, somebody will know or have a guy that has been doing it for years and he does this great job,,,and all that. You have control over who you let do stuff on or to you car.

Wait a second,,,,hold up......You mean to tell me that the only two ways you know of are the paint pens or taking it to a body shop? What about all the chip and scratch repair kits? And what about shops,( usually mobile) that specialize in paintless dent removals and rock chip repairs? What about the kits that use syringes and small bonding and filling agents to fill the rock chip in first, and then a micro applicator syringe to apply the paint? Which I beleive are the kits or are very similar to the ones the pros use? Like: Touch up Kit Langka Kit Color Kit I was waiting to see if anyone posted thier experiences with some of the other kits out there. I have used the syringes and those work great! I haven't used the Langka kit, but I learned about the Color Kit from another company that uses it for some of thier cars and it does look ok. I didn't think it looked as good as doing it with the Syringes, so I was waiting to see if anyone had used it or something else like it.

The Legend B)

And btw, I know you have dismissed the oil control valve, but........it could be stuck or sticking. As the oil control valve also is connected to the VVTI, which would affect timing and could also be a cause. Although I don't think that is the case here, I just wanted to point out that a semi sticking or stuck valve may not throw a hole bank of codes. I'm not really sure about it being a coil issue also. As the coil packs charge two cylinders, and you would be having an issue in both of those, not just one. Have you inspected the injector seal?

Hmmm, if you know which cylinder is having the misfire, then you might just want to move the fuel injector to a different cylinder, and see if the misfire follows to that cylinder, if it does, then obviously you'll need to replace the fuel injector. If not, then it's something else. Lexus uses a high a high impedance fuel injector that should measure between 13.4-14.2 on your multimeter. But to check the fuel injector's performance, you'll need to connect an Oscilloscope to #10, #60 and E01 in the ECM while the car is idling. Then look at the injector signal waveform to see if it is performing correctly. You should see a 100 msec./division at idle. Your specifically looking at the injection duration which should be 1 msec./division at ground.

I don't think I have ever owned a car without tint on it here in Florida. MAn, you can get a sun burn on your arm from just driving around down here! Maybe get a lighter non-metallic tint?

Maybe mix some "OFF" in with your wax?

The windows and door need to be reset. Just open each window all the way with thier own controller, and then close them, the master on the driver door should work again after that. It sounds like you may have something that has come loose, like a short in the wiring harness or connector off the push button start. I have heard of symptoms like your, but not at a running speed like you stated.

yeah, same bolt pattern and offset.