smooth1

/\ /\ /\ what he said. Hopefully your front end is okay also and you don't have a busted control arm or damaged tierods. Take it to Tire Kingdom and let them check it out... any of these repairs need attention. good luck ;) oh and he forgot BENT WHEEL :P The amount of the bend in the rim is referred to as movement. (# 3 on the list) All rims have a certain amount of "movement" in them. When a rim is bent or out of round, then the tire movement becomes out of spec and then needs to be replaced. :P ..... LOL!!!!

Only if metals stopped expanding when they get warm, and oil remains at the top of the motor. Having the increased idle helps expand the rings quicker, and the oil to flow faster as it is much thicker when it's cold, and hence doesn't flow as well. In fact, if you started a cold motor that went straight to "standing idle" and put it drive, the car would probably just die. And you would have to restart it and wait until the motor warmed up enouph to be able to run under load. That has nothing to do with warm cats.

A thermastat is a thermastat, unless you want to change the temputure range of the engine. But you should only want to do that if you have heavily modified the motor.

Dodge

??????

the increased idle speed comes from the car running a slightly richer mix of air and fuel while the motor is cold to help protect it. In the old days they called it a choke.

I'm with dc. ( What he said!!) B)

Welcome to the LOC. Congrats on the car. Sounds like you have a porject car in the waiting. Cool.

I don't ever recomend using outside petrolium detergents in any of your systems. The slight pinging your getting is more than likely just in need of a valve adjustment as you mentioned it happens under slight accelaeration and full acceleration. While you may have some carbon build up in certian areas of your car, seafoam, techron, mystery marvel, and all those do very little if anything to fix anything. Don't waste your time or your money. You would be better off just replacing the fluids. Especially on a car with 145k miles on it. The seals and flex lines can easily be damaged by these.

Space Center

rockerfeller ( or is it rockafeller?)

drive

Well this is to update. I have about 95% of everything in. The inter-cooler came in damaged, so I had to return it and they are reshipping that. I should have that by the end of the week, maybe Monday. So I have to get my a$$ in the garage and start getting everything together. The exhaust was on back order, but should be on the way now, and the header just came in. I'll be posting pics later.

Plisken

( wants his rib back, man we been gettin F**ed ever since!!!) apple

Without fixing it they will spot that a mile away. Then they will just rake you over the coals, and probably not even want the car. Your gonna have to have it fixed. there are a few ways to go about this, but I would need to know how many miles are on the car, the year of the car and how long you had it and how much you paid for it, that way we can go over all the options that make the best sense. And you will have to have an open diagnostic that says what the problem is and a list of the parts that will need to be replaced. I will be able to determine the hours needed and that will give us a labor charge. We have people come to the shop in this situation. it's allways tough. So we try to help when we can. If it's only a valve problem, you could get off alot cheaper. As then only the heads will need to be removed, and fixed or replaced. If it's a cylinder issue, then it gets much more involved as the motor will more than likely need to be pulled and the whole top end taken out and blah blah blah blah.... So we need to address that issue first. By the way, you did check all your spark plug wires real good and make sure they are all connected and all that right? Not that I think this is your problem, but I haven't seen your description of the problem, you said it was running really rough and you saw smoke. A dropped plug wire would make the car run rough, and you would get some smoke, and the fuel smell. Just checking the easy stuff too.

You may have lost a piston ring seal also. If the oil ring let go, you would have alot of smoke also. Or you may have developed a hole on the top of a piston. Do you hear any clanking or unusual sounds coming from the motor also? It could also be a valve issue. Do you see alot of steam coming out of the exhaust ? That would be a tell if it was in fact the head gasket. But only if the break was next to a water jacket. When it's cool, remove the radiator cap and see if there is any oil residue in there. And if you are low on coolant. Your looking for a white/grey goop. That's what oil and coolant mix looks like.

( What did the 2 say to the 4?...six,six, that's all you ever think about is six!!!) ate-----> prime

It's all good bro. But I have to strongly disagree with your statement about aggresively cleaning really dark brown to burnt smelling tranny fluid. Your going to make a bad situation worse. At the point of burnt tranny fluid, or no service tranny's, there will be alot of tarnish on everything inside that tranny. You start cleaning that tranny and your going to create gaps and spaces everywhere, which will only accelerate the demise of the transmission. At this point, just drop some fluid and replace it slowly over time. I know there are people who will read this and disagree with me. But if you don't do regular flushes, don't have your tranny flushed. If you have purchased a high mileage vehicle and can't confirm regular service flushes, assume they weren't done, and just replace the fluid in the pan over time on a regular basis only. If you have a new car, have the tranny flushed every 30k miles, 50k if you have a tranny cooler and don't run it hard.

AGREED!!!!!

junk

yea i like the 5 or 6 spoke rims not sure which it is, i like those better, the aftermarket navi is what i was planning on getting anyway when i got the car. all i need to know is how these handle in the snow, then i will probaably pull the trigger on one. is there any thigns i should get checked out on a used one, anything particular, as far as maintance goes since its at 30k miles? brakes? belts? Pay the money for your own carfax. On that report will be where the car was purchased. Then you can call the dealership and give them the vin and they can run a service report for you. That will tell you if anything needs to be done. There is a 30k mile major service. Costs around $700.00. If it hasn't been done, I would negotiate that into the deal. Also, when you get the carfax, look for when the car was deliveredto the dealership, and when it was issued registration after purchase and how many miles was reported at that time. ( Make sure it wasn't a demo.)

Well, as far as how they handle in the snow, I wouldn't have any idea as I live in Florida. But it has an electronically controlled transmission and it has a "snow" button on it. Which I would imagine helps limit the torque and improve traction. That and traction control with a limited slip differential would make me think it would work just fine. liability? or reliability? The 2JZE motor is awsome!!! One of the best reputations around, and probably one of the best motors Toyota ever made. In terms of expensive maintanance, I don't think it is. Parts might cost more because it's a Lexus, but scheduled maintanances are the same as any other car in general. Oh are you in for a treat. The S2000 while a great looking car, and fun to drive, not the most comfortable. And the RSX is just to tiny. Now your gonna have a car that's just as fun to drive, more room than the RSX, and comfortable, and runs like silk, and so refined, yet very sporty attitude.

It could be several reasons: 1- slightly warped brake rotor 2- brake glaze 3- tire movement 4- uneven tire pressure 5- unbalanced tire 6- worn suspension components 7- brake pad issues 8- a combination of any of these.

LOL!! Talk about living up on the silver spoon!!