smooth1

LOL!!! With a car load of fat people and a tail wind!!!

The agonizing toils of decision you must be enduring Jesus!!! LOL!! I'm not gonna answer this. Everyone has their own opinion. NO, not at all. You just have to be able to control the tranny with the gas pedal instead of the clutch. In terms of what? I don't really understand this question. To me, this question ties into the first question in that there aren't alot of cars out there you can compare it to because of the uniqueness of the IS 300. "Fast" is a relative term. Stock, it's faster than a Acrua TL, RSX, and TSX, Nissan Altima and MAxima, Honda Accord or Civic, etc.etc. If you want the car to be faster than a 350Z, Mustang and that class, yeah, turbo or supercharger, or v8 swap is the only way. Yes. but stompin faster? no, probably not. But 0-60 might shave a half second. 1/4 mile maybe 3 or 4 car lengths. If your not going turbo, then a CAI would be a good first.

Depends on if you still get the warranty. I would call Pioneer to talk to them about it first. I think if you ask them they have alink that they sell theyr'e own refurbs. Might wanna get it direct if you can. Yes desfinately stay away from these, as they allways are sold as is with no refunds. So if you get it and more than that is missing your SOL. And the NAV discs are a couple hundred by themselves. ( Actually I think theyre 150 ish)Yeah, get the iPOD adaptor. I love mine. The AVIC is preset for the iPOD. YOu can even download movies and watch them while driving !!!

The auto will hold about 400 crank HP. But I have a buddy pushing 435 rwhp on a stock auto now fo 2 years with no problems. The stock manual trannys are actually weaker than the autos.

stealth

A little on the high side there LOL!!! I thought the exact same thing!!! LMAO!!!

any guesses to how much this beast costs?

Heres some of the inside:

This is cruising without leaving home. I mean, you can even bring the garage!!!!

I could pack your butt in a cannon and stand there with the lighter until I hear " GO!"

At the starting line, everyone has a chance. And I was laughing because.... Do I need to keep what we talk about a secret?

The ECU is the controller. The idle speed is programmed into the ECU. You have the option of changing that setting with an OBD II scanner. Heck on my AEM I can adjust my idle at any time from within the car. When 99 takes the car in, they will hook it up to the ODB analyzer, and it will tell them what the idle speeds are set to. If the car isn't set to the proper RPM's they can simply change that setting. But if the car is set to let's say 750 RPM, but the car is idling at 1000 RPM, then that would be a tell that maybe a sensor is going bad, like the engine heat sensor, or maybe TPS, (throttle postions sensor). The only other thing it could be is some leaking vacuume hoses. I was asumming they were checked as 99 said that he had the car in for a service and they said the car was fine. BUt it is possible that they ovwer looked a vacuume leak.

city

If everything else seems fine, then you probably do just have a vacuume leak. But you may wanna clean the air intake out and make sure the filter is good too. The engine idle is set by the ECU. You might wanna check that setting to make sure it is set to the correct rpm.

Well, then it depends on the quality of the rebuild. This is just my suggestion. Forget doing full flushes. If the car was new and you did a flush every 30k miles, then great. But I think your taking an unnecassary risk. You should consider just replacing about half the tranny fluid at most at a time, with stock tranny fluid. Don't convert to the synthetic. Your not going to get any more benifits from doing a flush on a rebuilt tranny. If your looking for smoother shifts and all that, it's not going to happen. And if it does, it may be at the expence of the long term life of the tranny. I know that changing tranny fluid sounds like it should be a good idea, but when your guessing about the condition of the tranny, it might be wise to guess it safe than be sorry. And if you live in an area with alot of hills and your trying to extend the life of the tranny, get a tranny cooler. They aren't that expensive and it will prolong the life of the fluid and the tranny for you.

The catch might be the condition of the cars. I'm not in any way saying that is what the problem is, but if these cars were involved in accidents, and so fourth might explain the pricing. I would definatley carfax them and look them over closely. Paint on the rubber, slightly unaligned body panels, etc.etc. It's hard to tell all that over a website or ad. Generally speaking, when someone trades a car in at a dealership for a new one, the dealership has a set set standard for inventory. The car usually has to be in prestine condition and less than 4 to 5 years old for them to put it into thier inventory for resale. All the rest go to the auto auctions. If the car goes through the auto auction a couple of times and doesn't sell, then they "pack" some cars together and sell them in lots. Usually a few nicer ones with some not so nice ones. A dealer can then just buy the lot, and try to make thier money off a few of the cars and then whatever they sell the not so nice ones for is the added cream. Also, some car dealers have agreements with other car dealers for "stale" wheels. If a car sits on thier lot to long, they start feeling like their lot looks stale and not enouph new invenotry is coming in to make the lot good good. So they shuffle around the stale wheels with each other and that generally helps move those cars. I'm not saying everyone does it like this in all parts of the US.

family

Yeah, I wasn't sure about the ES. The IS only holds just over 2. Fords carry 8-12 qts!! I figured the ES would carry more than the IS. So maybe just drain 1 quart at a time and replenish it. And just do that at scheduled maintanence intervals.

LMAO!!!!

So long as it meets or exceeds both ASTM D 3306 and ASTM D4985 your good. If I'm not mistaken, Prestone makes a coolant that is specifically for any color coolant. Make sure you get some deionized/distilled water to mix it with. Don't use tap water.I would keep it at a 60/40 mix with you being in Ohio.

OK, well don't do a tranny flush. You can change the fluid in the pan,should be about 2 quarts. But I don't recomend flushing the tranny. You see, if the tranny went more than about 30k miles without being flushed, there will be tarnish on the bearings and speed bands and valves and journals and gears and so fourth. If you start flushing the tranny now, your gonna clean all that tarnish away. Which is going to leave pits and spaces between those valves and bearings and speed bands. Which will lead to the tranny slipping and not shiftings and other problems. At this point, you would be much better off just changing the fluid slowly over time to keep the lubricating and heat dissapating qualities up in the tranny.

Welcome to the LOC!!! So, have you two raced yet ?

Fizzy soda ( )

That would be the plan.

That's a really tall order question as there are so many different combinations. Not to mention the fact that the exact same set up will produce different results on different cars, even of the same model and year. But to answer your question on a more general term, intake, header and exhaust will gain you anywhere from about 15 hp to 30 hp. You will need to have the ECU retuned to maximize the effects and get it to to work together, and so you may get a few more there.