smooth1

How many miles on it?

It comes down to the person. I like Amsoil products since they perform great. Redline is a good oil but their drains are short. If you drain Redline engine oil at 7,500 miles you are nuts. Just Walmart for that price and duration since Redline, in this app, is adding ZERO value. In fact test both oil at this drain and I bet they are close in results. The group 5 will not help till "down the road". Why you ask, at even 12,300 miles my Amsoil engine oil (ASL) tested fine. PS. Amsoil ATF can go about 40 to 60K miles and be 100% fine too. I do 35 to 40K drains and the product smells like new and color is, well, like the new gallons I have! I don't disagree with you about the change intervals. I just do it because I can. There is just something in my mind that relaxes, smiles and loves knowing the oil is allways fresh. And I love workin on my ride, so oil changes gives me something to do regularly. LOL!!!! And your right about the brand preference. Royal Purple, Lucas, DSI, Aimalube, Maxtron, etc.etc. It's all up to you.

Sounds like the master cylinder may be having some issues. It's probably putting aload on the engine with repaeted brake pressure. You might blead out the old fluid and replace it and see if that clears up the problem. You may just have some moisture in there and that's whats causing the cylinder to work harder to pump up the pressure.

Richard Petty

nice. and only 15 hundred bucks. yeah all you mentioned is easy enouph to fix. Good job!

I'm not knocking Redline products. But I have used Amsoil for many years now. My dad runs an 8 sec. Mustang, and I have had alot of "slow cars" do the 1/4 mile much faster than they were ever intended to, and I race motorcycles, and we use Amsoil in everything, and so do alot of other teams. Just an experienced opinion. Redline makes a great glycol free coolant though. Which is what we use in all our radiators. And we never go 25,000 miles on a single oil change. At the most I would do half that or every 6 months. I actually change my oil at every 7,500 miles. I don't care what the manufactures says about it. I've had alot of oil reps in our tent who all say how long the oil can go before it needs to be changed. I only know that when I drop the oil at 7,500 miles and put new in, I feel really good about it. ^_^ How many miles do you have on your car and how many times and when have you had the tranny flushed before?

Under normal operation, your car should high idle between 1100 and 1200 rpm. Once the car has warmed it should idle around 750-900 rpm. ( Altitudes will effect this.) 1500 rpm is a little on the high side. If you took your car in already, I would just request that they adjust it to 1100 rpm for you. They should easily be able to do that. I agree with them that there is probably nothing wrong with the car. But if the high cold idle is bothering you, then just have it adjusted.

Depends at this point. If it's just 1 or 2, you may indeed have blown head gasket, or any one of the other issues mentioned. If they are all black or have "crud" on them, then as byf 43 mentioned, you may have just over filled the motor with oil and need to have it cleaned out.

Actually, for you, a cai might be really good as your at a much higher elevation. So the air has alot less oxygen in it. I'm sure your car is set for the higher altitude, but getting more air to the motor will be more beneficial than say someone in Florida and lives at o elavation. let me clarify something here though. A car at 0 elevation will produce more hp than a car at higher elevations. So a car at higher elevations will "feel" more of a pep from the CAI than the car at 0 elavation. Also, Flop just put a K&N Typhoon CAI on his car and he loves it. He says that the shifts are much more positive, and he doesn't feel any difference down low, only sounds much nicer too. Maybe some of the CAI are different from each other somehow.

Have you drained the oil and replaced it with the correct amount? As for the tranny, deal with that another time. Then pull each spark plug and look at it. the electrode end should be a very light brown in color. If it's a black Gooey mess, then more than likely it's fouled out and not sparking properly.

Again, let's hope this is the issue. It really is just about the least expensive of all the issues it could be. That's why I keep saying he needs to have the problem physically diagnosed. It's one thing to come to forum and say "I have a blown head gasket, what are my options and how do you fix it?" and quite another to say " smoke is coming out of the tail pipe and it's running rough, what's the problem?" As that could be many things. We are all guessing at this point.

What about Maguires swirl and scratch remover for black onyx paint. I bought some but haven't used it yet. Thanks Do you have swirls and scratches on the car? They have some polishes that are just for black cars. I would look into that first. The swirl and scratch remover only works for a short period of time. Usually the first wash or rain storm and they all come back. You might want to look into Zaino. I think your a Ziano person. LOL!!!!

The oil/coolant mixture wouldn't look like "white gooey type stuff". The oil would look more like coffee with a lot of milk in it (verrrrrrrry light brown) or a weak chocolate milkshake, instead of the dark amber (clean oil) or black (dirty oil). I'd also recommend changing the oil and filter. If you get more than the 4.5 quarts (w/filter) and the oil doesn't look 'right', you'll be narrowing the possibilities. Lastly, I just re-read your original post. You said that you put oil into the engine after noticing some smoke. I quote: "Its the strangest thing, I was driving down the highway cruising at 80 MPH. I stopped at a toll and and there was some serious trembling. A lot of vibration was going on. After I paid the toll, I gave it some gas, then all this blue smoke started comming out, and I started to freak out. I stopped at a gas station and bought some motor oil; put it in and hoped for the best. Everything works out fine until just now. The same thing happens again, only this time its a combination of white smoke and blue smoke. I have no idea whats going, and if someone could elaborate, that woulb be great." Overfilling an engine with oil will cause a lot of blue or blue/black smoke to come out the exhaust, especially if the engine has quite a bit of miles on it. You MIGHT just have an overly full oil pan and the oil is getting pumped into the cylinders and burning! I think if he saw it, it would be very evident. Creamy, light brown, milky , white(ish). If you pull the dipstick, look in the radiator, or drain the oil, when you see it, you know right away. And in looking at this, it is possible that you could have a timing belt issue also. Without having the car in front of me, I'm just thinking of everything it could be. Not just what I think it is. Before we can go over the $$$ and options, we have to get to what the actual problem is. If it's the valves or a head gasket, then you could get lucky and this may not be as expensive as it could get if there isn't any resulting damages to the cylinders and oil system. Beyond that, we need to see what the problem is before we go into that. Let's hope for the best at this point. BTW, I'm really sorry your having to go through this. If your like me, I know how much you depend on a car, and so fourth. Also the feeling of how much is this gonna cost and the unexpected costs that this means can be hard. I hope your doing ok.

Here ya go: and of course theres:

You can take the rotors in and have them done for like 10 bucks.

Forced Induction. ie: turbo, supercharger. Turbos being stages 1-5 , twin and remote. Superchargers being positive displacement, ( roots, twin screw, sliding vain, scroll type) and centrifugal, belt driven ( v belt, toothed belt, flat belt) , gear driven, chain driven and direct drive type.

SO BASICALLY U GUYS THAT HAVE THE 300 ARE SAYING THAT THIS IS NORMAL FOR IT TO IDLE THIS HIGH I MEAN IT SOUNDS LIKE THE CAR IS GOING NUTS WHEN U START IT OFF AND LIKE WHEN YOU PUT IT IN DRIVE IT JUST GOES OFF BY ITSELF IM SO CONFUSED BECAUSE I HAD A 98 THAT NEVER DID THIS It is normal. And your 98 did it also. It just may not have been as evident. The next time you have the car serviced, ask to have the idle checked with an ODB II scanner. You may have an engine temp sensor that needs to be adjusted. You may want to try cleaning the air intake and throttle body just to eliminate those possibilities also.

I don't know that coilovers are out of your budget. You can get tenabe sustec's for around 650. Your gonna pay close to that with springs and KYB's anyway. Tein has a coilover set for around 700.

You may have an ignition switch issue. When you start the car, the ignition initially engages the "on" switch for the starter. That switch may have gotten stuck and kept the starter running. That in turn would have caused a huge draw on the battery and that's why the battery heated up began to melt. It also explains why you couldn't shut the car off as the starter was keeping the engine turning. I think the battery is just on of the effects of the problem and not the cause.

If it continues to happen then there is a problem. Sometimes when the system "boots up", it may read an error and freeze. Kinda like your home computer that doesn't read a port and needs to be rebooted. I don't think the touch screen froze as much as the unit itself may have froze.

Tein CS coilovers. The absolute way to go. Fully adjustable, and the new bushings make the car ride much quieter. I was very surprised. I dropped it about 1 inch. I still get a smooth as glass ride, and no harshness at all. When I sling it hard in corner there is no floating and the body roll is way less. They are expensive though. They sell retail for around 1500.00, and I've seen them for as low as 1275.00 . You can go here http://www.raceinspired.com/default.aspx and look at alot of different suspension components.

And again Jibby is right, if you have a basic wrench set and some jack stands you could do the tranny swap yourself. It's not hard. Just looks like a major job that's all. And the tranny can be heavy. Might wanna have a freind and a 6 pack handy. ;)

He's not cutting you any price breaks to be sure. Before you committ, try http://www.enginereplacement.com/indexold.htm Give them a call and find out what they are selling the tranny's for and how much it would cost to have one at your door. It's worth the phone call. I have gotten engines and other trannys from them before. I've never had a problem.

That my friends is as good a "forum" diagnostic as it just about can get. A quick ODB 2 scanner would tell right away as alot of them allow you to adjust the idle speed manually. But the causes are as Jibby has stated.

No, they are different. I beleive they were Sumitomo brake pads. But if I were you, I would go to either Hawk or EBC greens for the same money, and get a much better brake pad. ( Better stoppong , less brake dust and much quieter.) You could get them for around 45 bucks for the fronts and change them yourself.