smooth1

Then your not connecting something correctly. What kind of isolator are you using? A diode or relay/silenoid? And how do you have the other battery connected to the car? I don't think it's the isolator, I think it may be how you have the battery wired in.

I think your out of your mind to even consider some guy off the street to work on your car to save a couple hundred bucks. That's a double overhead cam V6? How much did the dealer qoute and how much was his quote? Did you call a Toyota dealership also? they are sometimes cheaper then a Lexus dealership for some reason.

If you want to be able to tune yourself, then the AEM is by far the most powerful and easiest one to use. I don't know your back ground, but if you have no experience, then I would call AEM and find the closest AEM authorized tuner and let them do the initial tuning for you. So you can atleast get the base air fuel maps done. Then talk to them about what you want to be able to do.The AEM comes with a CD based program that you can download onto a laptop. From there it's getting a long enouph USB cable to run from the ECU to the laptop and then you can read real time A/F maps for idle, light load and wide open throttle conditions, adjust the band pulse width of each of the fuel injectors, adjust a/f , blah blah blah. Once you learn how to read the a/f maps and interpret the data, then you'll be tuning in no time. Just remember, until you know how to do it yourself, make sure you have a someone who does do the initial tuning, and run all your changes by them first. Too lean, and "pop", !Removed! the timing to far, ect. ect. and you could be in alot of trouble real fast. Any stand alone can be dangerous if tuned incorrectly. I'm not trying to scare you, I just want you to understand the importance of getting the initial maps right, and learning how to tune without costly experimenting.

Lookin good bro. Nice CF work!!! That center console is gonna be hot!!!! I would dump the AEM gauge though, and get the new PLX. Once you see that thing you'll want it in your car now!!! The new PLX is just sick!!! 1 gauge shows you A/F, boost, water temp, oil temp, and pressure, water temp, car voltage, tachometer, speedometer, and you can choose the color of display, what kind of display you want, digital, analog, graph...you name it and you get a remote control to switch the dispalays on the fly...bro, this thing isway B_A_D!!!! It's brand new, and just came out. Costs around 500 bucks.

You have the 2JZGE? For a full stand alone the best ones are AEM or maybe HAltech. AEM is a proven performer. ( See signature) And the AEM is way tunable and user ready. And it doesn't matter if its Vvt-i or not.

I go through this ordeal all the time. They have to road force balance them. It's a more accurate way to balance them. When I first put my rims on they had issues also. So after getting on thier case, Discount Tire finally road force balanced them and they roll perfect now.

Yep. New PCV valve. You might be gettting more oil blow by also. That's when the rings on the pistons start to wear and air coming into the cylinder gets past the piston and creates pressure in the crankcase, which is why they have a crankcase breather tube. But as the car gets older, you start to get more of that happening and if so, it can sometimes bring oil with it.

Find a product that has fillers, notice I said product not wax. I would personally remove the scrathes with OC or OHC and then proceed with a wax/sealant. Yeah, good point.

Clay barring a car is like a putty compound that you knead up in your hands and scrub all the contaminates and build ups off the paint. So the polish and wax/paint sealeant can cling to the paint better and give you a much better look.

I would go to the detailing forum here and do a search. They have countless threads and how to's and links and all of that in there.

well, in my turbo charged IS 300 I pinned the speedometer and continued to accelerate , Knowing that speedometers are way innaccurate over about 120 I would say I got it up to about 170-180 mph. Somewhere around there. The tach read 5900 RPM's and I was in 5th gear and held it there for awhile. I'm running an AEM fic, so that overides the electronically contolled speed limiter.

At some point, in your case I would keep in mind it's a 92. So it's not like you have to preserve the warrentee or anything. I would go to a regular muffler shop and just have them do an exhaust replacement. So, if your y pipe istill good, and exhuast manifold is still good, then the down pipe with cat, and a muffler should be well under 700 bucks. You can probably even get under that if you not to picky and just want the car to be quiet and run well again. And also being a 92, that is pre ODBII, then you probably don't have the the sensor after the cat anyway, so I would drop the cat and save a few more bucks too.

propholactics

Actually, a polish will hide the scratches much better than a wax alone. And if you want it to last, then you'll need to wash the car with a dish detergent to break down and remove all the old wax build ups, and residues. Then clay bar it. Then wash it again, and then use a good quality polish. Then wax it. If you don't go thru those steps, what ever you do won't last long enouph to matter in my opinion. And if you not a regular schedule detail person, then substitute wax with paint sealant. Paint sealant doesn't look as nice as wax, but it is more durable and lasts longer if you park the car in the sunlight alot and or don't garage it.

They are just stickers. You can go to a craft store and get a product called Un-Do. it's a sticker remover with a Bestine base. Won't hurt the clear coat, but you will have to rewax that area of the car. 3M also makes an adhesive remover. Just remember to pull on it slowly. So you don't bend/break them if you ever want to put them back on later.

Actually it's the the throttle cable. You probably have to much slack in it. Pop the hood and pull the engine cover off. Look at the back of the throttle body and see how much play you have in the cable. If it seems excessive, there are the adjusters on the throttle lever to adjust the slack out. I see this issue on just about every IS 300.

Yeah man, you gotta have a guy! LOL!!!! I use a place here in Florida, his name is Vinnie. And he loves cars. I bring him mine and he does his thing and 20 minutes later the dings are gone and the car looks perfect!!!!! The Volvo and the Nissan take a beating at the grocery store. He charges me like 50 bucks. And he does a great job!!. Some of those ding removal companies will even come to you and do it while your at work in the parking lot. Vinnie comes by the shop and does it here for me. So call around. Talk to a few paople and go with the one you feel good about.

Nice toys you have there! A fellow Kenny Bell owner huh? I had a 2003 Ford Explorer we called the KBX pushing 650 rwhp and dropping 12 second 1/4's. !! LOL!! So why all stock IS 300 after the lightning truck? The 600 looks all stock also? why man, why? LOL!!! BTW, we race a GSXR 1000 in the CCS/ASRA circuit, unlimited class and open super class. Nice to have you on the boards!!

did you check the cables and make sure the other ends are still connected? Maybe pulled the ground off, or are not getting a good contact on the post.

You did?? And when where you gonna tell us about all this Mr. private modder???? After all the threads about what to do and how to do it and all the advice and suggestions, you just go off and buy stuff, don't say anything to us??? Oohh, I get it, hangin with the My.IS crew now huh? I'm just kidding!!,,,No I'm not!.....LOL! Yes I am really...hahahahaahahah....No. ;) So what headlights did you get? and what exhaust and front lip and all that jazz. Come on, you know we need exact info here. LOL!!

LOL!!!!!

yeah, the problem your gonna have there doing it yourself is that proffessionals use special mixtures for plastic applications which keeps the piant and claercoat more plyable. If you just wet sand it and try to paint that it's gonna be crap. And will just chip and flake off in a year. Paint blending is an art also. A 94 will definately have faded some from the original paint code. take it to a pro and have them do it. For that it shouldn't be to over the top in cost. maybe 2-350 at most. As they will probably hit the whole bumper to blend the color good.

The flat black with the black suede interior and carbon fiber everything is just sick!!!!!!!

I just thought it was time for a new topic. In order to pick your car though, you have to have picks for everyone to be able to judge. It can be any year, any model, and any price. I just want to see what everyone thinks of as their ultimate "If I had a billion dollars and I was going to buy my dream car." Fantasy. I'll start it out with this. When I first saw this car, I lost all ablity to speak, or even function. When ever I look at this car I think I should just go and get run over by some big trucks. Because even if I ever got this car I wouldn't be able to stop shaking and laughing long enouph to drive it!!! My ultimate car is : The Gemballa Carrera GT

The car is definitely lowered, probably with coil overs because if he afforded turbo than he had to get them lol, common sense, looks like he has an L- tuned front bumper, rims dont match the car, they too fat but if i had to take a shot at it than they are AXIS CRUX rims. As far as the grill goes i cant tell much but looks like he just put a aluminum grill nothing special there. Link to the rims (I dont recommend this site just using it as an example) http://www.machiii.net/wheels/Axis/CRUX.html if you need anything else i will be in the LAMP Why can't you have coilovers and have a turbo??? LOL!! And I put down more hp then he did too! hahahahaa!!!! Man that's a grainy video, I can't tell what rims he has on there. the car is lowered, you would be surprised how much lowering the car changes the look of the IS. I would just start there. Then rims. Then the turbo. :)