eatingupblacktop

The two electric fans won't be enough. Might help to read this link: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/fanconversion.html

I agree. Easiest way to locate the source for your prob. If you find a change, then I would carefuly check the rim/tires. Rim could be ever so slightly bent or warped. Not enough to catch on a quick visual, but enough to feel at speed. Tires are most often the issue though. Check the tread by rotating the tire and noticing if it runs true. Also spin the tire by hand at a relatively low speed to notice if there are any bulges/bumps in the tread. The belts can stretch/loosen/break when the tire has a lot of miles/years on it. This will either elevate the rubber or distort the tread just enough to escape quick detection but enough to cause the shimmy or vibration.

Thanks, the car was not totaled, it was repaired at considerable cost. All tires are of the same diameter and are the original ones. The car is not used that much and has a total of about 24,000 miles. Tires were rotated at 20.000 miles. What are rotation sensors? They are the speed sensors on each tire, telling the comupter how fast each tire is spinning. Those sensors controls the ABS and the stability control. Usually when one of those sensors fails , you will get a warning light on your dash. Did you remember if you hear a beeping sound when you were sliding? When the stability control kicks in, you should get a warning light on the dash and a beeping sound. It may also be one of your brakes caliper locking up, I would have that check out. I have a visual indication if the ABS system (traction control) is working, a yellow light flashes and two lines appear. There is no beeping sound and I don't have "stability control". There was not sufficient time to see the lights flashing for the traction control, the event happened so fast. In all previous conditions where I was in a skid condition on snow, I did observe the flashing lights but in this condition it was the application of the accelerator that caused this, never the brake, and I was always in control of the vehicle. I could correct the skid but turning the wheel in the opposite direction and dropping speed. In this case I lost control completely. I have checked the brake shoes and calipers, not sign of pitting, corrosions, rust, or any damage. I would welcome the opportunity for Lexus to make the same inspection to determine if there is a mechanical or software problem. In this respect I have tried to make contact. Do you know of an individual I could address this issue too? Thanks, Michael If you released the brake application and continued to skid, then the ABS is not the issue. ABS will only prevent a wheel from locking up if the rest of the system is working properly. If, as has been mentioned, you have a sticking caliper, the ABS will not prevent the wheel from locking up. It actually works to release brake application to wheel that has stopped moving. Easy enough to test the system. Find an empty and wet parking lot (for less resistance) and apply the brakes. You should get pulsation as soon as you start to skid. Let up on the brakes and you should stop the skid and the ABS. If you lost the ability to steer clear of the rail, then your hunch that a wheel locked up is most likely the case. What you need to do is test the pistons; to determine how much pressure is needed to push them back in. If they're stiff, then it wouldn't take much to lock up the wheels on an icy road. If you haven't done a caliper service in a while, now might be a good time. Your suggested test sounds easy enough to perform and be assured that I will start looking for the wet day and empty parking lot. Can the pistons be tested independently by a Lexus dealer or service station? Is this a difficult or costly procedure? Is there anything that prevents the pistons, if stiff, from causing the wheels to lock? Your suggestions indicate a real understanding of the car and the mechanics. Thanks for your help. Michael Though it's an easy check, for peace of mind, I would have a brake specialist, dealer, or an indy you trust do the assessment. It would take me about 10 min per wheel. I think it's an automatic minimum 1hr rate soon as you drive through the doors at a dealer. You could also go to a Toyota dealer instead of Lexus. Nevertheless,, money well spent. The only thing that will prevent sticking pistons is to do regular caliper service (or inspection at the very least) as preventative maintenance. Not at all expensive if you don't have to replace anything, and if you're regular you won't have to. You should also do a regular fluid change. Have them check the proportioning valve as well. In future, when driving on or encountering an ice patch and you find yourself skidding when applying the brakes, try releasing the brake pedal to regain motion to the wheels and avoid any abrupt changes to the steering direction. I have never relied on ABS or Traction Control (I actually have it turned off all the time - in my '91 I can do a better job by just feathering the throttle). It keeps you on your toes and ready for anything. Something I do as a habit is to start gently sawing the steering wheel whenever the temps get to near freezing or at the first sign of ice/snow to see what kind of traction I have. This upsets drivers behind me I'm sure, but gives me the information I can use in determining the road conditions. Being forewarned eliminates having to deal with those nasty surprises.

Betty says to Bert, "Brakes broke Bert!" Burt says back to Betty, "Brakes not broke Betty, brakes just bent!"

Props for wanting to become a DIY! Now don't get offended or misinterpret what I'm going to suggest here. Although none of what you've listed is difficult, if this is your first time for doing most of these, I'd suggest you find a good tech, either someone who has done work for you before or recommended to you. Give him your list and ask him to do it with you as an unpaid apprentice. In other words, you're paying him to give you a working tutorial. You will not only learn things the easy way, but also the right way. Along the way, you can ask questions for anything you'd like expained. Believe it or not, there are techs out there who like mentoring and would likely teach mechanics if they could afford to. It will also take you a hella less time and you won't need a bottle of aspirin. The next time you'll be able to do it all by your lonesome. Believe me, there's no feeling like doing a job confidently and the satisfaction of having done it right. Keeping it smooth, but keeping it real!

Sounds like he's had the replacement engine sitting in the back especially for someone like you. I suggest you get your cappuccino elsewhere.

Those muffler bearings are about the hardest part to find. I wonder if Fixit has any Mothball octane booster? It's just about as rare! I think the only shop that still sells it is MinitDrainit.

totally agree, try to stick with premium 93 octane gas. you car will love you and stick with chevron and shell. Thank you! I actually live right next to a Shell so that's usually what I use but we had some really cold weather here recently and that's what the dealer thinks might have caused water to get into my tank. I've tried running dry-gas through a full tank and I am almost on E now and my car almost cut off again today. So my hope is that if there was any water in my tank, it should be almost clear? There are plenty of threads on this. Here are a couple that might help explain some things: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=391963 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=392031

Thanks, the car was not totaled, it was repaired at considerable cost. All tires are of the same diameter and are the original ones. The car is not used that much and has a total of about 24,000 miles. Tires were rotated at 20.000 miles. What are rotation sensors? They are the speed sensors on each tire, telling the comupter how fast each tire is spinning. Those sensors controls the ABS and the stability control. Usually when one of those sensors fails , you will get a warning light on your dash. Did you remember if you hear a beeping sound when you were sliding? When the stability control kicks in, you should get a warning light on the dash and a beeping sound. It may also be one of your brakes caliper locking up, I would have that check out. I have a visual indication if the ABS system (traction control) is working, a yellow light flashes and two lines appear. There is no beeping sound and I don't have "stability control". There was not sufficient time to see the lights flashing for the traction control, the event happened so fast. In all previous conditions where I was in a skid condition on snow, I did observe the flashing lights but in this condition it was the application of the accelerator that caused this, never the brake, and I was always in control of the vehicle. I could correct the skid but turning the wheel in the opposite direction and dropping speed. In this case I lost control completely. I have checked the brake shoes and calipers, not sign of pitting, corrosions, rust, or any damage. I would welcome the opportunity for Lexus to make the same inspection to determine if there is a mechanical or software problem. In this respect I have tried to make contact. Do you know of an individual I could address this issue too? Thanks, Michael If you released the brake application and continued to skid, then the ABS is not the issue. ABS will only prevent a wheel from locking up if the rest of the system is working properly. If, as has been mentioned, you have a sticking caliper, the ABS will not prevent the wheel from locking up. It actually works to release brake application to wheel that has stopped moving. Easy enough to test the system. Find an empty and wet parking lot (for less resistance) and apply the brakes. You should get pulsation as soon as you start to skid. Let up on the brakes and you should stop the skid and the ABS. If you lost the ability to steer clear of the rail, then your hunch that a wheel locked up is most likely the case. What you need to do is test the pistons; to determine how much pressure is needed to push them back in. If they're stiff, then it wouldn't take much to lock up the wheels on an icy road. If you haven't done a caliper service in a while, now might be a good time.

Like I said people will do anything. 250 times means panick! Either he was trying to undo a stuck pedal or he decided to blame Toyota instead of collecting a ticket for speeding! :P

Just click on edit and change what you want.

Ok,here's something I read today. Does it clear up anything? Nope. http://www.wheels.ca/article/784936 Some highlights: Federal and Toyota investigators who examined and test drove the car could not replicate the problems Sikes said he encountered, the memo said. Sikes could not be reached to comment. However, his wife, Patty Sikes, said he stands by his story. "Everyone can just leave us alone," she said. "Jim didn't get hurt. There's no intent at all to sue Toyota. If any good can come out of this, maybe they can find out what happened so other people don't get killed." And then this: The brakes on the Prius also did not show wear consistent with having been applied at full force at high speeds for a long period, the Wall Street Journal reported Saturday, citing three people familiar with the probe, whom it did not name. The newspaper said the brakes may have been applied intermittently. But wait a minute, we also have this: The memorandum obtained by The AP said when investigators placed the Prius up on a lift, they found the driver side front wheel well was dislodged and the brake pads were worn down. "Visually checking the brake pads and rotor it was clearly visible that there was nothing left," the memo said. And a few more recent incidents: NHTSA is sending experts to a New York City suburb where the driver of a 2005 Prius said she crashed into a stone wall Monday after the car accelerated on its own. And in Fort Wayne, Indiana, the driver of a 2007 Lexus said it careened through a parking lot and crashed into a light pole Thursday after its accelerator suddenly dropped to the floor. All of this from one news report! So, anyone taking bets on the outcome?

If you're replacing the evaporator, consider replacing the rec/dryer as well. They often fail within a short period of each other. The re/dryer works like a filter removing moisture and contaminants. I'd make sure the system is thoroughly evacuated before recharging to get out all that moisture and any other possible crap that might be in there like Stop Leak (if it's been repaired before)! Also make sure that when the tech discharges the system that he runs the refrigerant through a recycling machine that cleans it before recharging and topping off with new refrigerant. Though it's desirable to save on costs where possible, one aspect to a cheap compressor is the possibility of weak seals that fail prematurely compared with oem. After you've completed repairs make sure you maintain the system properly for longevity by cycling the a/c at least once a month, even during the winter. This will condition the seals and o-rings and provide lubrication through out the system. Since you're investing substantially, two other inspections I would do is the high side hose and the condenser.

Sorry to hear about your troubles Killer, especially so soon after your bangup. If the car's idling/running smoothly now, then unbalalnced compression isn't your prob. Did your low coolant level warning light come on? How is the temp now? In addition to all the suggestions you've received so far, you could pull any DTC's you might have. Could check your coolant temp sensor. Also check your overflow tank to see if any coolant has escaped through there. Any smells? Noisy w/p or noisy idler means a t/b service in your future. You really should nail the location of the leak and noise before starting to replace anything. Throwing parts at a prob without determining the issue is like pi$$ing in the wind - you never hit anything because the wind takes it away! :P Do you know whether the last service used oem? Keep an eye out for any smoke which would indicate a shreading t/b.

With only 63K, I doubt you have any buildup on the valves or the injectors. Nor do I think you'd need a valve adjustment. Do you have any record of the oil changes? Has this ticking only recently started or has it been there from day one. It's normal to hear some ticking. If you're not sure whether your's is normal, go to a dealer and compare to one of their demos or get a tech to lend an ear.

Well, the CHP is on the case as is a chief tech from Toyota, and since the media isn't likely to let this get swept under the rug, looks like we'll soon find out how real this particular failure was. Stay tuned!

You mean MPH I'm sure. Sounds ike belt squeal. Note the revs when you hear this noise. Now see if you can recreate this noise while parked by just revving the throttle. If you can, get someone to create this noise while you are in front of the engine. Then systematically spray a bit of water to every pulley the belt traverses. If the spray quiets the squealing, then you have located the noise. Next step would be to check the tension and tracking of the belt at that location.

Are recalls allowed in Japan? lol, but I know what you're getting at ... class action! N.A. litigious? Fraud against such an honourable company as Toyota? No way, not here! :P

My understanding is that all Toyota Hybrids have always had a brake over rides the throttle strategy since the beginning. Or something that disengages the tranny! I don't think that a failsafe system as a contingency for a runaway situation should that complicated. It's not rocket science. And how many engineers at Toyota are working on this????

I don't get it. The Prius has been out how long now? Why haven't we heard of these failures earlier? This version was an '08, I wonder what kind of history the older cars have. Could this be some recent tech/parts/manufacturing changes in the newer cars?

I agree w Smooth. It looks like an ad. If your intention was to warn readers, then you should have posted the warning when you started the thread. It would eliminate any confusion as to the purpose of your post.

Bad plug/plugs out of box? Gap set right? Dist. Cap/Rotor not good / not replaced right? New plugs out of the box, gap set right. Yes I replaced the 2 Dist Cap & rotors, also the wires. I used NGK Iridium spark plugs. Wires oem? Check resistance. Can always put back in the old parts to check the new parts.

Check for leaks from the reservoir and attached hoses. Check if the alt's wet. Do you get bluish smoke from the tailpipes on startup? Here are some pix: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/Alt1 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/Alt2

I think once you're in motion, the airflow wouldn't be a prob w the shield. Idling on the other hand might not provide enough with one on. As with the other electrical switches, sensors, relays, wiring, components, etc., I think most of the damage happens from heat soak once the engine has been turned off. Still, I prefer the practice of making repairs more permanent than temporary.

I've read the tranny prevents a shift to Park when in motion at speed. Could be similar lockout? That's another reason I like my '91!