99lsguy

s92, Getting that return hose off was also the hardest part of the job for me!!! I just kept working @ it and scraping my knuckles.......eventually it came off Install was much easier. I'll do another flush soon (2K miles later) and then take a look at that solenoid filter.....thanks for the heads-up!! btw, how was the screen? performance better now?

90LS, you probably will need them.......but check first for sure! the bushings may show cracks and be hard....if that's the case then it will really help eliminate the "clunk" sounds....

Platinum, I've got a 99, had 53K to start off with me. I changed diffy using Castrol 75-90W synthetic. I use Amsoil 5-30 synthetic for engine oil and just got 2 quarts of Amsoil 80-90W for the diffy. I'm just changing again for the fun of it (@65k) and then its good until 90K. You need 1.43 quarts. I re-used the washers for the first change but will get new ones this time. Anyway, I recommend any name brand synthetic rated GL-5. 80-90W is the preferred oil if winter temps get below zero; otherwise straight 90W. YOu need a 10mm hex socket and torque is 39 ft. lbs. Undo the top plug first - just to make sure it does come loose so you CAN refill.... Good luck.

90LS, I agree with this decision completely.

Yeah Z....... Your girlfriend just chipped a seriously bad tooth!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry to hear the story. Its a monster of a job I'm just wondering if part of the gear is also down in the flywheel / tranny area I don't want to even go there............

mb, I would say go ahead and replace the lower ball joints while your under there... The front strut rod also has bushings that are prone to failure in our silly little cars.... check for cracks and looseness there too. Replace if worn, because they're ready to give out by that point. You will need ball joint separator, jaw pullers: free rental at parts stores (Autozone, etc..) Search the forum for "lower ball joint replacement" or similar words and you'll find a lot of info.......... PGA West huh........I've player there a few times! Shot 75 (39-36) from the blue tees on the Stadium course once! That place is DIABOLICAL

Yeah, check the tension on the belt first. If ok, then take off the belt and inspect the pulleys........ Sounds like a bearing is out on one of them. If you can "hand turn" some of them, listen and feel/wiggle for worn bearings. I know you can turn the P/S pulley. BTW, seven consecutive lines with no punctuation of any kind; but I could read it!

Here ya go!!! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...wtopic=4237&hl= I think you should put a "spacer" behind the gear to keep it from slipping too! I think my posts are in there....... Enjoy!!

Hey guys, I Know there is a fix out there - DIY style. Not hard. There is a set of gears that gets worn and out of alignment.... I'll see if I can find it............

For sure!! Send me a PM :D

Yes: You are suppose to turn wheels lock to lock and hold for about 2 secs (cycle 2-3 times). This is with engine off and engine on idle. I kept my tires just off ground for both ways. Easier to turn & doesn't scuff the tires! When my car was on idle, I left the P/S cap on LOOSELY while turning lock to lock to let the air escape.

New front struts and strut rod bushings for a friends' 97 Coach cost around $750! This was for both sides, but I don't remember if they replaced the lower ball joints and tie rod ends..........for that price, I hope so!!

Sorry about the delay Meist, My MS Documents are all 200-300 kb . They contain a line or two of explaination for each step of the procedure - along with a photo. There is no way to upload them here on LOC. I suppose I could break each file down into 3rds, and 4ths: Oil change_one.doc Oil_change_two.doc etc, etc,................. Maybe the higher powers could lift the 100k limit on these types of maintenance procedures........

Congrats on the new 430...........an amazing machine!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also great that you've kept your 91 for 14 years........ :D My guess is $3k or so....... Post some pics of that 430!!!!

Meist, All I do is Fluid/filter maintenace on my 99. (With OVERKILL I might add :D ) Oil changes, tranny, diffy, coolant, brake & p/s flush. I've written little MS word procedures w/photos of all except the p/s flush (K9crew has this one) I'm going to do another P/S flush soon and maybe check that p/s solenoid screen that gets some press (in the Gen I's). My LED's on the CD are on the blink though; the ones on the far right that show the min/sec's of each song as they're played. K9Crew has a thread & fix on that one too.........sent it to CA for a $150 fix, which he said is much better than the factory and should outlive the life of the car. Bottom line...............any 10+year old car is going to have problems & increased maintenance. For us, we see the future demise of our beloved LS's ahead of time; through all these problem posts of the Gen I's............. The car is well made and made to cuise acriss country. City driving is tough on all the suspension part, brakes, tires, p/s. Frequent engine startups sap the life out of the car. An LS driven coast to coast for 8-12 years with 500k miles would have no more problems than average....... the engine and the tranny are TUFF!

vmf, That Civic is a tremendous value to drive over time. It requires minimal maintainance cost, none of the suspension will be a problem, great gas mileage......200k miles easy. A/C will give out @ 150k. Buddy of mine has 97 civic with 205,000 miles...bought it new.......runs perfect (w/o the A/C though). Never replaced the tranny fluid (manual) He doesn't even know if radiator's been flushed or new timing belt. He just gets in it and drives.........oil change every 4k (dino). It's a little sewing machine............ :D

93ls, How long you've been using the Castrol 20-50w...........? That's some pretty thick oil...........

Yes zdeno we need more description........... Try to give us a complete procedure when you have time.

That's right VMF....... I gladly paid a mechanic to change it out.......you should have seen the gas fly :P

So I take it you and your Dad aren't buying 2 new LS430's........... Keep us up to date.

look it up at kbb.com you need to let us know the mileage, service records, color of car, interior / exterior condition, tires, maintenance, # of owners, etc...........

90LS, the good news is my tires have worn very evenly all around and it track straight as an arrow :D It just need to keep bugging myself to get some new tires ;) When I had a new fuel filter put on 3K ago (@ 60,000 miles) the mechanic said my suspension was in good shape, so I guess I'll leave it alone for a while..........

bigo, That's good news!!!!!!! Thanks for letting the club know (I love closure ) It is one smooth ride............I always think about club members when I'm cruising @ 80 mph and the engine noise is UNDETECTABLE

Like you guys have said............ Use a torque wrench!! First thing I did when I got home with my LS back in July/03 was check the torque... Good thing I didn't have a flat on the road because - I too - had to use a "cheater bar" over the lug wrench to break them free I almost stood on them to get them loose If I had been on the road there would have been trouble!! I too use a 1/2" Craftsman "dial" type torque wrench. My procedure is: torque to 50 ft/lbs in star pattern torque to 65 ft/lbs in star pattern final torque to 78 ft/lbs (2 extra lbs for insurance ) in star pattern. I always put the torque wrench in the trunk........ Keep a 10-75 ft lb wrench in my garage tool box (3/8" drive) (Even have a INCH LBS torque wrench........... :D )

I think my ride is on the soft side. Floats along @ highway speed. Slow bumps feel firmer. Still on original OEM parts........ I do have fairly worn "H" rated Yokohama's..........I will probably upgrade to "V"'s this summer..