99lsguy

Those Michelin Energy MVX4's always get good marks - they are a good tire for sure. I've never heard anything bad about them I have a Costco within 1 mile and I'm considering the Michelins also ( while the $80 rebate is going on!!!) That'd be $570 - $80 + tax = $530 approx........ SWO, Did you get the Toyo Proxes TPT's??????? I've heard their a great tire too!!! Local shop specializing in Lexus always put a "H" rated tire on the LS's - just a standard touring tire - nothing special..........

swo, Ahhhhhhhhhh..now I know the rule!!!! I've tried several times to PM members to no avail......wondered what was going on ;)

OK, OK.........I gotta post again!! I mean the 04 is the BEST!!!!! I've driven an 2001 ---last year before I got my 99...and this car is absolutely superior to any previous LS model year - IMHO The only disputable question is whether or not you like the body style over any of the previous "classic" LS's............. I wonder how these newer Power Steering systems hold up For me, this is the ultimate head turner......not necessarily for the body style; but for the ride, interior room, engine, tranny, sound system, yada-yada-yada!!!

I say you win the bet - hands down!!! Now, YOU know how it operates and you CAN fix it - (well, you DID FIX IT)!!!

s92, Thanks for a great description - I've gained the confidence to take this puppy on!! Perfect idea to mark the nut position with a sharpie or similar........just like markings for camber / toe adjustments when working on Suspension/axle parts!! I'll do this the end of the month (2 weeks) and let you know my story - I hope it's a good one ;) The nail punch is certainly adequate for me too........If I can obtain a "thin bladed" pair of "channel lock pliers" - I'll try them first; otherwise opt for the punch. If you want to jack up both sides of your car again - I imagine a few turns lock to lock of the wheel (with cap loosely over reservoir!!!) with engine off and then again with engine on idle...........this can only help remove those final air pockets in the system....(I know, the hassle of doing it again) Again - thanks for the help!! ebridges - how was your solenoid screen? amboy19 - I will take a series of photos for this procedure and post. 99

congrats!!! Your LS is beautiful! The best touring sedan in the world!!!!!!!!1

Absolutely correct!!! Normally a $95 part.......so anything less is good!

Craig, Good you're back online And the LS is in better shape too.............sounds like you were given the red carpet treatment - very nice!!! What a story Good to hear from you......... 99

Hope its a cheap fix!!!! You know, you've mentioned a few times about the $$$$ to fix and the possibility of selling her off.............if that's the case, so be it. That's the right decision money-wise; just hard to do sentimentally (is that a word )

dc, I see your in the midwest..............what city? Any Lexi's in the CC parking lot ????????

glad your back in business!!! Here's a link to a current post that gives info on the solenoid screen...... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...pic=10145&st=0& I'm going to give a go at this soon - 500 miles to next oil change and I'll get after it.

s92., just wondering if you've had success flushing the PS yet - mainly getting the return hose off. It is hard, I had to pull down and twist hard to get it off - the tube is easily 2" long ; and you know that hose has never been off so its stuck pretty tight!!! Also, after you got the wires off on the solenoid, did you "tap" the edge of the nut with a chisel? I ask because I've read that before and it surprises me - to say the least! Is it a rounded bolt or something? Anyway, just wanted to know ................ Any washer/gaskets to replace? And to tighten.......just finger tight and then 1/4 turn or so (or more?) Thanks! 99

You can run the VIN# and check for service records @ Lexus. 30K & 60K are major services.....but all of them are just replacing fluids and filters.....easy DIY if you wish. Normally, KC lexus charges about $550 for the 60k maintenance. How many miles on your beautiful LS!???????? My car had no phone so nothing to rip out check search engine on "phone" handsfree, etc.... 1990LS400 has lots of experience with this..........

well said chips!!!!!

Yes.......most important is to have a small flat screwdriver, small piston jack, a lug nut key, correct socket for the lug nuts (19-21mm) and a 3/8" torque wrench (10-75 ft lbs.) to match sockets. Torque is 79 ft. lbs so max out the wrench and add another 1/8 turn....you're good to go! I have the original tool set in my 99, but always keep the torque wrench in the car for longish trips........

Glad they did. After all, if its under the 4yr/50K miles they should pay for it. Welcom to LOC

And here are the components w torque specs: comp.pdf

Lexus calls it the "propeller shaft". there is a bearing at the halfway point which can be loose or worn. check it for torque! here's the troubleshoot: pst.pdf

Yes..........I love the 04 too! But, wait 3 years or so and let that puppy depreciate from $58K down to $30K, then sell your LS outright and pick the 04 up! Every month you can hold out it saves you $400+/mo. in depreciation alone. 2004 - The ride is very close to the same, but even quieter. More trunk, head & interior room too.....It's awesome car for sure. Best reason to hold off..........let your wife drive the NEW car for a while :D

Really? That's a bummer. I used to have 97 Acura 2.2 and I had a seat belt problem. Fixed @ NC........dealer said seat belts were lifetime guarantee. Lexus.........always out to make a buck ;)

I would think that the seat belts should be a free replacement. This is a gov't law. Maybe the time has lapsed though, ;) Call 1 800 25lexus and ask them if seat belt issues are lifetime warranty items??????????????????? I would

Here's a great photo post by K9Crew! It's what got me started on the project!! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+steering+flush I did it myself, but tried not to start the car - just bump the starter like k9! I did accedentally start it twice, but immediately turned it off. It will drain the PS fluid really quick if the engine is started so be careful. I also suggest putting both wheels just off the ground and do lot's of cycling back/forth with the steeerin wheel. If you look thru the hood, you'll see the PS fluid being pumped over and out. You have to do this anyway to "bleed" air out - so I think its best to start this way because the wheel is "tuff" to turn!!!! I didn't disconnect the Air filter/ MAF assembly or anything.......just worked my fingers in those tight spots. I ran the clear tubing just over the fender and to gallon jug on the garage floor. MAKE SURE YOU TAPE the tubing securely to the jug.....it did come loose on me (and I had a little mess to clean up ) Drain the reservoir as thourough as possible first. you will still get drainage once the return hose is off so keep a little paper cup handy. Then replug. The ideal setup would include some sort of container that will hold 2+ quarts of Dex III fluid that can "mate" tightly w/ the reservoir. Like a clear, modified container with an open top or something.....Then, you could start the engine, watch the fluid drain down, and turn off as it dissappeared -- THIS WOULD BE AWESOME!!!. Someone did wrap elec. tape around the funnel and "jammed" it into the reservoir opening - it didn't leak! so this is a possibility. I'd go this route if I could get a second helper to hold it tight - actually, I'd trust myself to do this part with a quart of DexIII in hand while someone else started the car - then I could yell "STOP!!" when my fluid was about gone.. As you can see, I'm pretty anal about all the potential complexities of this (and any) procedure!!! I used Valvoline long life Dex III ( 1.5 quarts or so) . It has additives to help condition seals & gaskets...supposedly ;) Mobil one ATF is good too. Original Toyota fluid looks like motor oil anyway.....so it will take a while to get it out. Just make sure to use a Dex III fluid (syn or dino). Do not use stuff labelled PS fluid........ Next time I flush, I'll use 3- 4 quarts to really flush it out! Knowing me, I'll clean the screen next (since I've done a flush), flush again, and then clean the screen again. I think it takes time to clean these puppies out !! 99

I don't have plans this summer......but I'll keep you in mind. thanks for the offer! If anything comes up I'll let you know for sure..... Happy golfing........

Yes, Synthetic is perfectly good. I have had no problems with it. I don't know if mine had ever been changed before either. It's supposed to be done @ 30K intervals, (which was shown on my car) - but I never trust em. So like you, I changed it to be sure. Good move. Use any brand your comfortable with - Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline, etc..... Should be good to go. For those extremes; cold winters and hot summers.....you can't beat synthetic. 80-90W is perfect! It can be hard to tip the quarts up enought to get the gear lube in the diffy. I had to run a clear 3/8' tub from the fill hole, along the R driveshaft, and up & over the RR wheel to pour the gear lube in. Wasn't room to tip the quart bottle up and squeeze the oil in. Maybe I should have tried harder, there's got to be a way I bought a little pump (walmart) that fits the quart bottles for the next time. I"m hoping this makes it easier. Fill just barely to the top! Hey, the bottom plug has a magnet attached so be sure and clean it off too! If you're really into DIY, I pan drain the tranny every 5k ( when changing oil) - so this keeps the tranny fresh too! It only takes 2 quarts (approx.)

You could also try some pliers and gently "twist" the hose a little as its snug against the reservoir tube. It's just tough to "break loose" the first time. I'm certain this was a first for my 99 LS, so that's a 5 yr old car . It can only be "frozen" more on older cars........ or run a small, flat screwdriver down the edges a little to help break loose.. be patient, you'll get it! worse case, if you really tear it up, you can get a replacement. It's about 1/2" od and 3/8" id hose.