Grandpa

Errr... first two days of orientation are tests?!?!?! I just took tests to get placed in my freshman classes; why would I take more tests the first day?

When you say it vibrates, does it vibrate on it's own above 45(without braking)

Alright, anyone know the purpose of the shims on the brake pads and are they really necessary?

Could anyone tell me the purpose of the shims for your brake pads? Don't know the significance of it

I am not too familiar with Freeze-12, but i heard you still need a conversion kit, but I am not sure.

R12 is always cooler than r134

Have you looked into touring tires? These are pretty good for driving around. I got $60 off a set of 4 of Michelin tires from Costco and they work pretty well... there is also a lengthy debate about nitrogen being used in your tires and Costco does it for free, but I don't really notice much. We got te Michelin Pilot Primacy 205/65R15 set of tires and it's pretty smooth

There are so many on Crimestopper site. Which one is easy and compatible to LS400? Thanks, You can contact them and ask them. I forget which one I have, but one of the Gargoyle lines.

Crimestopper is a pretty good system. I have that on my lexus and installation can range from easy to difficult depending on your knowledge about the car's electrical system. Programming it however is pretty easy.

When you go with ceramic brake pads, they'll be a bit more expensive... I'm not too sure on the difference, but I hear ceramic pads are better at creating friction and they have good high temp wear and tear. Slotted rotors are designed to create slots throughout your rotor at a specific angle that help the brakes "grip" better and helps "drain" the water during wet weather.... All i did was go with ceramic rotors and OEM rotors cause I saw no point in dishing the extra $$ for slots b/c some people say that there really isn't much of a difference.

Am I the only one that hates for my tank to empty? lol

The brake rotors are completely different front to back. They are different diameters, and the rear brakes have an integral brake drum for the parking brake. Thanks my friend. One more question, can the rear rotors be resurfaced. Yes they can. but you need to check the thickness of the rotor. If it is too warped, then you need a new rotor. And yes.. your rear rotor is usally larger because it needs to house ur parking brake and etc;.

Well... when I put my new rotors on in my front and didn't put the screws in(cause they were pretty stripped) i got a screeching noise after about 10 minutes of driving.... i went back and decided to put my old screws back in and the screeching stopped... i don't know if the screws helped stop the screech, but the screws did help hold the rotor in place when I was putting my tire on and that's what the purpose of the screws are for

E-bay store ^_^

So what is the best speed to cruise at to save gas on a 92' LS400?

Very nice of you.. could u post a pic so I can see what it looks like?

Hrmm... from his description of the highway, I think we might be on a different page. My jerks once and it's when I shift into drive and reverse, then it'll go away.

Could you give me some FYI on TPS and etc;? I'm totally not familiar with the engine at all. Also... I'll check to see if it jerks when I shift to different gears... I'm not 100% sure on that

Well... basically, I'm onto a new problem =). Basically, whenever I shift my car into drive or park, it sort of jerks into gear and then everything else is fine... I was wondering what this could be? Also... when my car is fully heated, it idles at about 500-600 RPMS, just in case anyone was wondering

Well i just took it up to NTB tires and they loosened it for free... the rest I just did my self... thanks for all the input guys.

Well... my friend has an air compressor and I'm gunna see if his dad can help me loosen the bolts... in regards to the screws I might just drill a pilot hole and use a screw extractor. But I wonder what places will charge me JUST to losen the bolts, cause I don't need them to replace the rotor or brake pads for me lol. BUT this is my last resort... I rather DYI this since the rear rotor + brake pads were so easy to come off(in regards to the 17mm bolt) I am very aggrevated to see that the front ones are such a pest. In retrospect, I seriously doubt the PB works well.

Yeah... the PB Blaster isn't doing anything.... I'm stuck in a stumo >.< Any suggestions on how to remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper on? Do pneumatic drills work good?

Alright, i'll try that tomorrow... I also came across another problem... the two screws that hold the rotor on on my rear tire.... well they're striped -_-. Also why use a breaker bar over a 1 foot torque wrench? Also is Kroil and PB Blaster better than WD-40?

Err.... I can't manage to losen the 17mm bolts on my front caliper... those suckers are really tight.... any suggestions? my 1 foot long torque wrench isn't working well... I don't really want to refer to a box wrench + hammer.... if i do use box wrench + hammer, there's a possibility i can't strip the bolt right?

i'll take a look at the boots once more.. but I think it's fine... thank you lead!