xxxavier2k

I wouldn't advise cleaning the filter/screen but you could check it for fibres that could suggest worn clutches. The cleaning doesn't ever get it totally clean. Be sure to take sk's advise and getthe inine filter as well.

I'll send you a picture soon of my 3VZFE eng and tranny being hoisted... yes on the two 14mm bolts at the back and of course the coresponding ones at the front of the engine.

I pretty much agree w/ toysrme but it can be useful if you're intending to remove your engine some time soon.

That souds like your steering rack mounting gromets/bushings are worn causing the rack to slide from side to side.

I though the same thing. However the tranny started neutraling some time back and I cleaned the filter and changed the fluid (the magnets on the fluid pan were covered with metel shards and so was the filter) It worked for about 2 weeks then the whinning sound returned and so did the slipping gears. After cleaning the filter again I realised that there was hardly any metal shards just fibres. This time it woked for about a month. My thought is that the old fibres are reintroduced into the new fliud and clogged the filter. THe mechanics down feel that its much worse. They refused to do a flush but had to clean the filter for the car to move. On this clean the fluid smelled really burnt. But the car drove home with out slipping (about 10miles) Any thoughts??

I've just been told that my transmission clutches are burnt and are responsible for my clugged tranny filter. My valve body may also be damaged. I figure that a used tranny with less miles might be a better bet than risking a rebuild. Anybody got any clues to used tranny sources??

Yeah SK I love the windom badge on your grill!!

← Yeah that link pretty much nailed it. What i realised though is that right after (about 1 wk) the tranny failed again...the filter was pretty much totally clogged again. I cleaned it again yeaterday and i'm just waiting and watching. I agree w/ everyone who says that the flush and refill causes previously stationary particles tto flow again and clog the filter. My advice then would be to flush then after about 3 days of regular driving drain, change the filter and refill. I use regular tranny fluid.

I just completed a drain and strainer clean on a '93 windom if you're interested i can post the procedure

Well my tranny seems to be on it's way out so if the rebuild costs are about equal to the manual part costs then I think it's worth the upgrade.

Anybody ever seriously though of a manual tranny upgrade. Is it worth the cost/trouble???

My mechanic suggests a professional tranny flush but i have to drive it to him. What do you suggest? Where can i get the filter??

I've done the thread searches and I'm hoping that the answer to my problem is simply a dirty filter and the need for for an external one but here goes. I've been hearing a whirring sound from the right side (driver side) of the engine bay that I assumed was the alternator telling me that new brushes were soon necessary. But last night after a mildly spirited drive the car couldn't find first gear while I was trying to park it (that is after stopping and reversing to park). What I realised is that on startup it shifts with no problem at all from first up to fourth but if I brake for a pothole and try to move again it shutters (as though still in fourth gear), or sometimes just revs. To move forward I have to stop, park it and shut off then restart. Then It will find first and shift smoothly through to fourth then loose it again when it should shift down to lower gears. I haven't tried flooring the acclerator while in fourth gear to see if will downshift though (this happened late last night on a very dark uninhabited stretch of road). Any ideas???? Could it have something to do with my recent tendency to shift from drive to 2th to use engine braking? By the way my fluid level is up and it doesn't look brown.

Why are you thinking about "opening the manifold"? To change the plugs you only need patience, flexibility and a good plug wrench.

I'm not certain about the bearing but my strut mount had arrows pointing to the outside of the strut (where it attaches to the wheel hub). Be sure to align the lowest strut bolt with the projection tab on the lower strut seat. Hope this helps

Was it your front or rear tires that had the outside wear? If it were the front then you're probably due for tie rod end (inner and outer) and ball joint inspection. Tire pressure related wear is usually: if pressure too high tire wears in center while outside (both inner and outer) surfaces remain okay, if pressure too low then tire wears on outside surfaces while the center of the tire remains okay. Only outside wearing suggests either consistent hard cornering or worn suspension parts. The chain-like sound could suggest that your brake discs are shaking around abit.

Help me out a bit here. My intake is JDM so I guess abit different from yours (no EGR). My only labelled vacuum port is port "P" and that goes to the throttle opener. THe other two ports go to the charcoal canister. Any suggestions would be great.

Just a a shout a say I've tried the mod with 3 clicks and I lost power, then i tried it with 1 click and gained slightly, finally as suggested I went to 2 clicks and there's a definite gain high in the power band. What can I do to improve low down??

I'm having a similar problem but I've realised that my coolant overflow tank is cracked and causes the system to lose pressure at that point (when the caps open). It's difficult for me to get coolant tanks down here so I repaired it and the overheating stopped...until it cracked again.

Here are picts of the screw I'm refering to: wide: closeup: Excuse the nasty orange silicone. I had to open it b4 to solder a broken lead.

Thanks. My problem now though a parts source.

Hey Toysrme, isn't it possible to get the same result (leaning or enriching the mixture) by tightening or loosening the adjusting screw on the AFM. The one that's coverd by the little plastic plug? or do I have to cut off the AFM cover??

I drive a '93 toyota windom (right hand drive) but I'm looking to replace my entire rack assembly with a rebuilt one. Here goes the stupid question: Does anybody know if a left hand drive rack for an Es300 would just flip around and be ready for a RHD application??

were at I cant find anything in Edmonton Alberta ← I think the idea was that u check ebay while in Alberta. Anyways there are reports that the hose on the ebay intake (iacs hose) is too small and causes idling problems. BEWARE!!

yeah that works!!