xxxavier2k

Actually I think he'll only see significant improvments if he does serious mods like: port & polish, nos, forced induction along w/ the easier ones:cai, y-pipe, free flow exhaust.

ok ...so check the motor oil and see if there is collant. what should i look for in the oil? green color? thanks. i pray its another problem!!! :) ← A compression test would also be very helpful

Sounds good but my windom is for the JDM so it doesn't have an EGR. What do think about a custom y-pipe with a tuned collector though?

Good stuff sunman. If you get the chance you could also take off the intake manifold and clean it as well ensuring that you clean the ACIS (Acoustic Control Intake System). That should really get you going

Yeah the ECU will adjust for the cai. But if you're looking a few more horses then fuel and ignition management will help. I'm going for the AFM mod when i complete my cai installation.

what do you think adding vents to the bonnet to address the engine temp issue?

Changing the ball joints would (to my knowledge) more affect the camber of the tire. That is it should correct it. Might I ask about the symptoms that led you to changing them?

Has anyone ever played around with the spring tension on the vane AFM (air flow meter) to try to change enrich the air/fuel ratio? I've heard that this works well with CAI or free flowing y-pipes or exhaust systems

Are there any other symptoms like engine missing, black smoke from tailpipe or smell of gas?

Go for it!!

I have the same problem with a '93 windom. It went away for a while after a wheel alignment and balancing job but reappeared. According to my manual it could be the tie rod ends or the control arm ball joint. Do you hear any sounds while turning the steering wheel left to right with the car at a stand still?

VERY nice!! The shift knob is excellent. Where did u find it??

This is my info on a 1994 25g windom: Chassis: VCV11 Displacement, cc 2496 Engine model 4VZ-FE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 175 ps (128.71 kw) / 6000 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 22.8 kg*m (223.59 N*m) / 4800 rpm Power density 8.63 Engine type V type 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve Hope it helps

If you're starting the car cold then the auto choke should be activated. This makes the fuel/air mixture gasoline-rich. If you have an air leak then the mixture will be way too rich and could explain the smell of gasoline. Look at your intake hose and the iacv feeder hose and gaskit for leaks. You quite likely will also have to clean the iacv.

Yup there's the serviceable, nonservicable and the electronically adjustable. They're made by a few vendors but tokico and kyb are prominent. Try the pinned faqs for more info

I agree with the dirty/faulty IACV (idle air control valve

Thanks for the input guys. BTW KYB does make inserts for the 92-92 as does Tokico. They ran me about US$55 for the fronts.

I recently changed my strut inserts to KYB GR2's. I was told b my mechanic however that i also need Strut bumpers to control the rate at which the struts travel. I've searched sites and have found both Strut bumpers/bellows and Strut boots. They both seem to be the same thing but I need to know for sure b4 i order them. It's difficult to return items from St. Kitts to the US. Pict of Strut Boot: No pict of Strut Bumper/Bellow but the ones out here look similar

My fix for this was cleaning the idle air control valve with throttle body cleaner. (It's the unit on the intake manifold with a tube from the accordian intake hose on it.) I just completed the cleanup and it starts like a charm and runs pretty well. You might need to check your plugs though mine needed cleaning.

I finally found my IACV after removing the throttle position sensor and every other sensor around the throttle body. Thanks for the fix tips. It seems though that after running rich on startup for so long that my plugs got fouled (carbon buildup and hesitating while idling and reving). I guess i'll change to iridiums. One of my plugs however looks a bit suspect to me. This looks to me like my head gaskit is damaged around this plug. That would explain my radiator water loss and intermittent white smoke from exhaust...would it?? My mechanic told me that there is no sign of a blown head gaskit though so i need your ideas!!!

If what jelow54 means by bottoming out is that the strut does full travel when the car goes into dips in the road then I hae the same problem on the front of my '93 Windom. And that's with new KYB GR2 gas strut inserts all around. I noticed however that the inserts were a bit shorter than the stock adjustable inserts that were on my front. So much shorter that the spacer that was sent was not thick enough to adjust the inserts height. Any ideas as to why???

What you're looking for is this switch If you don't have it then I guess your fob or remote sensor is at fault.

A guy hit my car and broke my left wing mirror. Not the assembly just the glass. Does anyone know where i source one?

Cool, thanks

While changing my rear strut cartridges I noticed this part. The one with the spring. It seems to alter the braking bias left to right based on the roll of the car but I'm just guessing here. Help please.