xxxavier2k

Narh Sk He's just really good at computer graphics!! :D

I'm glad you got it worked out man! did you port n' polish while the head was off?

The tensioner should be set and keyed before installation. That is using a vice/clamp or vehicle jack and push in the tensioner pin. Using a nail or other hard straight small item push it through the hole in the tensioner dust rubber into the hole in the tensioner pin. Put the tensioner on, tighten bolts and pull out nail.

Is that intermittent clanking noise from your engine or someone banging in the background?? Take pictures of the crankshaft pulley showing notch position on timing plate and cam gears and post them that'll help some. How did you put the the tensioner back on?

Yup make sure they line up...9:15 position with the crank at tdc. You can use the crank pulley notch and 0 timing mark to ensure crank tdc. Hey Toysrme, if it's still rough can it be that the mechanic mixed up the valves or cam bearing caps?

Make sure that he realigns your front tyres!!

Does any body know where i can get a tach character plate? Mine seems to be shot. I did a direct line from the ignitor to the line on the cluster and the tach is just moving slightly when i rev the engine.

Thanks a million Toy!!!

Wow talk about here today gone tomorrow!!! I'm too late!!!!

Found them. job should be complete in about 2 afternoons

I've just replaced the "o rings" in the pinion of my steering assembly. I realised though that quite a few rings were left over. I supposed they were for the rack ends. Heres the question: Are there any special tools needed to remove the rack from the steering housing?? I need to get to the inner "o rings".

Really think you should thoroughly examine your intake pipe for a slit

Alright! Thanks Man!!

Any idea how many volts should be on that line?

I asked a tach related question about a year ago and no response. So here goes again. Can anyone advise about the state of my tach needle? It lights up fine but either does not move at all or moves only below the 1000rpm indicator. ???

Not bad. Does he have any numbers to go with it; like increased bhp, torque, etc

Ha!! I wonder who won...

Kinda sounds like your intake hose (accordian hose beteween maf and throttle body) is cracked.

I've got to agree w/ sk on the screen/filter cleaning. In my case it was clogged which prevented the tranny fluid from getting to the pump, which burnt up my clutches. BTW how does your fluid smell? Is the color brown or wine red? When you clean your screen if you see fibres there then you've got clutch deterioration--> bad sign. Check it quickly as toys said, my penalty for waiting and driving was having to buy a used tranny (US$800) which i'll swap shortly.

Hey thanks man! I need all the help I can get

I'm about to remove my engine and tranny to replace my severely damaged transmission (clutch burning issues). I'm thinking though that this would be a good time to change my : rear main oil seal head gaskits valve stem seals I'm also thinking about getting the standard abrasives deluxe port and polish kit and attempt working on my intake and exhaust runners. Does anyone (who has done the port & polish) feel this is a striaght forward diy job??? Any advice??? any thing else that I should consider replacing considering that I drive a '93 Windom with about 85,000 km?

I agree with Toysrme about the flushing using the tranny's pump. I disagree with your mechanic about the Diff.'s fluid being drained as you lower the tranny's bottom pan. The Diff should have its own drain plug; a hex or four sided head bolt that should be at the base of the Diff. I'm told that the check for the Diff. being filled is to stuck your finger in the check/fill bolt hole on the (driver side) of the Diff.

Ohhh sorry my bad! <- idiot

With all of your excellent tech advice it's a pity that you aren't mature enough to respect the opinions of others.

I guess it was just my experience. Because of the shape of the filter container some metal shards/fibres will remain even after the cleaning.