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xxxavier2k

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Everything posted by xxxavier2k

  1. Actually I just sold my '93 windom. Thinking about something with a turbo.
  2. Get the troublecode. Sounds like an intermittant solenoid, or a speed sensor problem. Well I got this fixed by changing the shift solenoids. But now it's returned. btw when I removed the former solenoids and checked them they were all working fine. So when I got a code 63 last week I decided to just swap the former #2 solenoid back in. Now I've got both a #63, and a #62. Indicating that both solenoids are bad. Could this be due an ECM problem? Should I try flushing could this help???..I doubt it since I changed the fluid when I swapped the #2 solenoid this time. Any thoughts??
  3. Do your wheel turn at all when you turn the steering wheel? Check the linkage between the steering rack pinion and the steering wheel shaft in the engine bay.
  4. Thanks again for all the posts guys. I realized that I had to reset my timing belt due to high engine temps, poor performance when cold, and failure to get past 140km/h...all of this after a port n' polish, and broken timing belt. I did this about a week ago and did the afm mod along with changing the crank pulley( I used a torque handle and impact wrench socket...after breaking 3 regular sockets). THe car now runs to 160km/h very quickly and has a very aggressive launch at near to and full throttle...decent tire spin. Next on the list of mods is an improved downpipe and cat deletion.
  5. Unclip thw two plastic clips at the top of the cluster cowl. Remove the two screws. Pull cowl towards you. Ensure that the steering wheel is fulling extended and in its lowest height position. Unplug odometer jack (lhs) and dimmer switch jack (rhs). Slip out from behind steering wheel. Done !
  6. Where'd you find your cluster?? I've been looking for awhile with no luck
  7. Looks a bit like the jack to the variable speed valve in the steering pininon.
  8. My rough shifting stopped after I realised that the cable was sticking in the casing. Instead of going through the pan drop and valve body removal I went for the temp fix of straightening the bend in the casing at he point where the cable attaches to the throttle body bracket. I guess I'll it properly shortly though!
  9. Yeah I agree with Toysrme ans sls about the '93 using R12. I 've read that they are conversion kits available for the change over to the more ozone friendly R134a. They don't work well together at all!!!. Anyways when the refrigerant is depleted the compressor does not run. You have to first recharge at the high side (lhs close to the charcoal canister in my '93 rhd windom anyway). Look out for air bubbles!!
  10. Ok I've done a port n' polish job and replaced my cracked accordian intake with a shorter rubber intake but I've lost power!! My rear (right hand) exhaust cam was initially off spec by one tooth (inner sprocket) so adjustments were made to the throttle position sensor to fix the idling issues. After the cams were checked due to tapping noises the rear was fixed and the throttle position sensor was readjusted. But theres no tire spin on intial take off (like there was b4 the port n polish) and mid and high-end power is poor. I had done a few mods b4 the port n polish like: 1. modding the acis valve open 2. leaning out the fuel mixture via afm Any ideas?? THe port n polish was more like just a thorough polish since hardly any material was removed. The valve stem seals were all replaced (there's no smoke from the exhaust) and the valves were lapped before being reinstalled. I've tried readjusting the afm to add gas but there's only a slight improvement. Could it be spark plugs??, injectors??
  11. No I don't think so. The cruise control unit sat next to the battery like in US models with the accelerator cable going to it and another going to the throttle. This sensor and motor has the valve open when the engine is off.
  12. Is anybody out there familiar with the parts indicated below. I've seen pics of US es300's and thought that the only difference was the EGR fittings. But I've been having problems with the idle speed not increasing when the a/c is switched on and looked a bit closer. The part labelled 1 seems to be some sort of sensor that works with the motor in part labelled 2 that opens and closes a valve independent of the throttle valve. I know it's not the IAC valve nor the throttle position sensor. So what is it????
  13. Based on your ability and stock of tools you could just buy the repair kit and do it yourself. It's basically the replacement of a number of o-rings and seals in the rack and the pininon. You'll need to remove the rack from the car though, which involves some work. Check the online manual for a more accurate idea of the total asmount of necessary then decide, but $1000 for parts and labour sounds a bit steep to me.
  14. A power steering fluid leak could be from: 1. steering rack o-rings 2. power steering pump seals 3. hydraulic radiator fan 4. damaged hoses/lines that connect 1, 2, & 3 Check them all!!
  15. If your fluid smells burnt and is brownish then you've got a problem. If not change your strainer and refill and see what happens.
  16. Okay I had cooling problems pretty much right after I bought my '93 Windom. Shortly thereafter I developed a steering problem, then my struts when south, then my front end got very noisy and loose. I tried radiator caps, changed my water pump, removed my thermostat, changed hose clamps, got my radiator fixed, but I still had cooling issues. I fixed the struts and the steering problem ( it would wander left and right at will). Then my tranny went. I decided to do a tranny replacement and do some head porting and polishing while I was at it, as well as rebuild my steering rack and replace every lower front end component except the control arm bushings. I realised that the coolant leak was the bypass line beneath the intake manifold so I used silicone as a gasket. Seems to be fixed. Anyways got my car back from the shop but they "forgot" to reconnect my #2 speed sensor so not only did I get overdrive light flashing lssues but the solonoids in my valve body were sticking (rough shifts from 1 to 2) and I got a burst timing belt while driving. Got the belt replaced along with the #2 Tbelt idler but my crankshaft pulley got damaged in the process. I took the solonoids from my old damaged tranny (clutch issues) and exchanged them and the #2 speed sensor and it's shifting much better. Next to do my dog bone mount and crank pulley. Most of this happened within the space of 2 years after buying the car. Why do we love the lexus es300/Windom so much??????
  17. Is there any chance in heaven or hell that the 4 cylinder camry crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) can fit the 3VZFE??? Or what about the 3VZ-E crankshaft pulley working on the 3VZ-FE?
  18. Are there any rebuild options? Or can I find a new one anywhere? My online sites don't list them
  19. Sorry, not the crankshaft itself but the pulley (that the alternator and power steering belts run on) that is keyed onto the crankshaft. THe one you have to pull off to get to the crankshaft sproket. I'll attach a video tomorrow.
  20. Hi: Can a warped crankshaft pulley contribute to a broken timing belt. I just noticed that mine is warped. I 've never looked at it before so I don't know if it was warped before or as a result of the engine removal and replacement or the belt job. THere's also a sound (hissing ) from the right side of the engine bay only when the car is running. I thought it could be rust on the rotors as the car was down for a while and it rains quite a bit out here.
  21. Changed the belt and upper pulley. The car is running fine. Thanks for the help.
  22. THanks for the posts guys. Is there anything else that could have caused the belt to break besides the pulley?? Bearing in mind that I got the belt, and water pump changed about 1 year ago but kept the old pulleys.
  23. I just completed my engine job and decided to keep my slightly worn top (#2) idler pulley. It was making a slight noise but I figured I could live with that for a while. While driving at about 35mph the belt just up a broke!!! I'm told not to worry as my valves shouldn't be affected. Is this true? Should I change the tensioner pulley (#1)? It spins fine, has no sound when spinning but has a slight in and out play.
  24. I just installed a used tranny to replace my failed one (burnt clutches). This one shifts great from 2 to overdrive and back but the shift from 1-2 and 2-1 is rough. Also too much time passes for the 1-2 shift (even when in manual mode). I'm about to investigate my tranny and front engine mounts for wear. The dogbone is definitely shot. I've already checked for tranny codes. There are none with engine cold. After running for a while today my O/D light started flashing once every 2-3 secs until I shut the engine off. When I disengaged the O/D the car shifted to third gear quite smoothly. And shifted to O/D when I reengaged the O/D button. There is no other problem with the tranny. No smell of burnt fluids. There is no leak nor is the level too high or too low. I'm thinking should I: 1. check for stored tranny codes wth the engine (and tranny fluid warmed up. Would this really make a difference?? ) 2. consider replacing speed sensors 3. consider replacing shift solenoids 4. replace dogbone mount 5. think about torque convertor issues Any help much appreciated!!
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