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jbarhorst2

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Everything posted by jbarhorst2

  1. What's the best method/tool/product to clean the exhaust tips on my SC300? Thanks Tom
  2. My dealership is having an "event" this evening to introduce the new GS. I just arrived home from there. I was picking up my car and look around the showroom before I left. They had a V6 AWD and a V8 car. It definitely looks much better in person than in pictures. I liked it. I was very impressed with the interior. I thought it was nicely done. Tom
  3. You must remove the entire assembly to change the bulbs.
  4. Guys, perhaps he is talking about the wood piece coming loose from the part that clips into the door panel. What should he use to glue the wood back to the carrier? My first thought is an epoxy. Tom
  5. Is it really black?? Or, could it be the indigo color coat with no clear coat on it. That may look black because of the loss of gloss and/or the accumulation of some dirt. Tom
  6. The gasket on the distributor cap is a rubber o-ring. The service manual recommends a new one when you remove the cap. Tom
  7. If it is an RF unit, then normally you tune to 88.7, 88.3, or 87.9, or another low channel like that. It's worth a shot. Tom
  8. Well, I decided to do a little diagnosis tonight. It was now warm enough today for the compressor to actually run and the A/C light started to blink. When I checked under the hood, the compressor was indeed locked. Looks like a new one for me. I have an appointment at my dealer for Feb. 16. Thanks for the help. Tom
  9. Use Dexron III (replaces Dexron II) in your 300. And yes, 2 quarts is just about right. Tom
  10. In order... 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Coupe (Olds Rocket 350) 1987 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (4.1 Liter) 1991 Cadillac Seville STS (4.9 Liter) 1995 Cadillac Deville Concours (4.6 Liter Northstar HO) 1997 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe (4.6 Liter Northstar HO) 1999 Cadillac Seville STS (4.6 Liter Northstar HO) 2001 Cadillac Seville SLS (4.6 Liter Northstar standard) 2001 Ford Mustang Cobra (4.6 Liter) 1997 Lexus SC300 My wife drives the 2001 Lexus RX300 Tom
  11. I changed mine on my '97 SC300 at a little over 150,000 miles. It actually did not even look worn. Tom
  12. I recently had the TPTs put on my SC300 and I don't really care for them either. Initially they were not balanced properly and that really vibrated the car. Only after going to another place could I get them properly balanced, so that's not the fault of the tires. However, I have noticed 2 things in comparison to my OE tires. The TPTs do not ride nearly as smoothly and the TPTs are much more prone to slippage. That is in rain and snow. I don't really care for their grip. That says a lot since my OE tires were the Goodyears (and I'm not really a Goodyear fan). Tom
  13. I also get low lifespan from Silverstars. I run them in my '97 SC300 and get no more than 9 months or so before they go out. I do, however, drive a lot in the dark. I at minimum drive TO work in the dark everyday. I have about a 70 minute drive. In the wintertime I am driving home in the dark as well. Tom
  14. Do you mean why is the light still amber when it is lit?? If so, it's because the Sylvania bulb with the iridescent finish still glows amber when it is lit. It is only silver when the light is off. They did this so that your car is still street legal, but you don't see the yellow bulb when the light is off. Tom
  15. Jzz30, how do I test to see if it is only the clutch making noise? Thanks Tom
  16. I agree. I had the same problem on my '97 SC300. Once I cleaned the throttle body everything was smooth again. Tom
  17. Was there an actual gasket when you took the pan off?? When I had to change the pan on my SC it was sealed with FIPG material, there was no paper or rubber gasket. I just assumed that the RX would be the same, but it may not be. Tom
  18. I know the buttons are twist out bulbs. I believe the display itself is soldered in lighting. That's what it looks like in the service manual. I can't exactly remember. It has been a long time since I took mine out. And, I only had buttons that were burned out. Tom
  19. It's definitely the compressor itself. It only happens when engaged. It certainly could not hurt to put some oil in. I'll try to find the right kind in a charge can. Tom
  20. My AC compressor has started to "rattle". It doesn't do it very much at idle, but when the engine revs (like before shifting out of first gear) it can be a loud knocking rattle. Is the compressor starting to die, or could it be just low on oil or something? Looks like there might be some oil residue in that area that may have come from the shaft seals. The freon is OK because it was topped off fairly recently and the glass is clear. What do you think? Tom
  21. I have heard this noise on my 2001 RX300. I have not found the source yet. Try this -- try just putting your key in the ignition, but do not turn the key. Do you get the noise?? I do. The plot thickens...... Any ideas?? Tom
  22. The high mount stop lamp is required by the FMVSS. This requirement was put in place in 1986. If your high mount lamp is out, they can give you a ticket just as if one of your other lamps was out. But, I have never heard of anyone getting a ticket for this. I would imagine you would get a warning instead of a ticket.
  23. While this can be a quick fix, that would probably not give you the desired long term results. Modern finishes depend on UV blockers that are typically contained in the clearcoat. Without enough of these blockers, one of the effects you can get is the one you describe. What has probably happened is that the UV rays have gotten through the clearcoat and have damaged the basecoat underneath. Once the basecoat starts to degrade, the clear begins to flake off. As you lose more clear, more basecoat damage occurs. This damage will continue until even the e-coat layer is compromised. To properly fix this you will need to sand away all damaged material, properly prime, prep, and refinish. If you do not want a long term fix, you can wetsand down into the basecoat only and then have it re-cleared. This will look good, but will not last as long. Tom
  24. In AUTO mode, the rate of air flow (fan speed) and the direction of air flow will both change based on certain preset conditions. Some of those conditions are: Temp inside cabin Temp outside Difference between the two Difference between setpoint and cabin temp Sun load sensor input There may be more variables, but I think this covers most of them. Tom
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