akewlguy

93LS is what I am talking about..

I have extra capacitors so if you have trouble finding them I can send.... Cold nasty solder joints all around.. Cheers to a horrible soldering job! Practice before you try to do this... For sure if you can get an expert to solder the capacitors on the board for 20 - 30 bucks do it.. I bought about 15 dollars worth of supplies and would have rather an expert solder the board.. Then you dont have to worry about heat or damaging the board (pull up terminal or something else during removal or soldering).. Job took about 3 hours.. Looks like everything is good since it all lit up! Cheers.. Say a prayer at the end..

These capacitors do are not soldered from below the circut board??? Okay its all out on my table and ready to go, but I think I am going to bring to TV repair guy. As for the capacitors them selves they can be higher voltage & uf, but not less? Hello Folks,I think I have an answer to the Instrument Cluster Light and fuel gauge problem on older LS400's.If you have the common problem with the instrument lights whereby they don't come on right away when you start the car in the morning when its cold .... then its probably an electrolytic capacitor located at C212 on the small PC board on the back of your instrument cluster.If you also have the common problem whereby your fuel gauge takes a long time to read the fuel level in your tank after starting your car in the morning and/or the reading is much lower than the true amount of gas in your tank, then its probably two electrolytic caps on the "Big" PC board on the back of your intrument cluster. One of the caps is located at C142 on the big board... and the other is located at .. C147 . The interesting thing is that these caps are all the same style. They are very small (Low quality) electrolytic caps. They are housed in little metal cans ... with very short leads .. although they are not true surface mount caps. I tested a bunch of caps on the small board and found that only this type of capacitor was disfunctional .... and interestingly enough .... all the caps of this style were bad on both boards ... (A total of 3) .... If you are scientifically inclined .. I need to warn you that these capacitors often do not "crap out" unless they are cold .... If you read the capacity at room temp they may or may not seem fine ... But when you put a chiller on them ... then the capacity reading starts to approach zero ...What you should do is replace them with better quality caps .... either bipolar ... or ceramic .... or titanium ... You can go higher in voltage and also higher in UF .. it doesn't matter ... except for maybe the one located at C142 ... I am not sure .. but this one may provide some kind of timing function ... the other two are clearly just filters .... (IE: for Ripple)...C142 (big Board) was 4.7 UF, 25VC147 (Also on the big board) was 10 UF, 50VC212 (Small Board) 10 UF, 16 VNow both problems are fixed ..LamSV was very helpful in getting me focused .... I would still be stuck without him ...Remember .. that you need to disconnect the battery before you start removing stuff .. and wait a couple of minutes ... I made the mistake of not doing this and my Airbag warning light would not go out ... So I removed the little light bulb that warns you ... I am not sure my airbags work after 10 years .. but my guess is .. they work or not ... regardless of whether there is a bulb in the warning light circuit ...This problem is very easy to fix for anybody comfortable around a soldering iron .. and much less expensive than having the dealer replace your boards ... (My cost was about $1 worth of parts versus $1200 if the dealer fixes it) .... the labor involved was mostly in removing than reinstalling the instrument cluster ... (About 1 hour) ... Replacing the 3 capacitors is about 45 minutes worth of work ....Best of luck to anyone with the problem ..... Cole POST FROM COLE GUY Broke the little plastic piece on the bottom of capicator... Suspect its not essential... Maybe hope. As for taking everything apart.. I utilized a screw driver for the initial plastic piece in front of assembly... The connectors are a pain.. The back orange one is the worst and when you take out the whole cluster you have to sorta twist and start to remove.. Then one has to remove connectors... Over all there is about 20 total screws so put them in bags or something... ALSO take your time.. I get wound up over stupid connectors, but for the most part held my kewl!

I think Tire Rack uses something like this.. Once rotated they are no longer on.. Weird thing is previously one tires was moved to the front and everything felt okay.. then I moved the other to the front and you can feel something at about 70. Ohh well, thanks.

Website does not work??

NO MORE TRIPS IN THE LS. Just kidding, but today oil is above 66.. YIKKKKEEEEESSSSS Looking forward to buying a scooter for local trips. Cheers

Arrrggggggg... So I need to get a balance.. Great.. Should have left them the way they were. :)

My dash and center area all go dark. I will replace the capacitors this weekend. FINALLY, SO WISH ME LUCK! My point is during the summer lights are fine... When it is cold the dash issue has something to do with whole car. Cheers

Seems I rotated tires and did not cause any .5" cut in wheel. Anywaysssss... Is it possible I did not do opposite lug nuts when I tightened them down? I feel a slight vibration up front when I do over 60? I know my rotors need to be changed also. Any advice? Might try to loosen and then go opposite on my wheel lug nuts. Do they make rustless rotors?

LS-V's are good so far. Also I did not rotate them for about 7500. Now at 10k they look good. I really don't know what I would get until I have another 10k on these. I hear the MX'ers get like 60+k.

Hey SRK, sorry. Sorta came out wrong. My number one mechanic is a small shop and there has never been an issue. Typically the final price is less then what I thought. Sorry for the confusion. I was thinking about a previous shop that did a bad job. I have been involved with small business for a long time and do understand that word of mouth is key.

Okay I have to say the Firestone mgr in McLean VA was kewl. Then I contacted the Area Rep in CT and he was awesome! No questions asked just get the wheels fixed and he will write the check. Also he is going to get ahold of the mgrs boss and say what the hell. So overall I feel much better then I did a bit ago. Sometimes I find that if a big company like Bridgestone screws up you will get the repairs... Not the same can be said for a sucky mechanic at a small shop. Not to say that everything is great, but I am happy. Great week!

I do think it gets warmer quicker with the prestone instead of the green crap. What is a pain in the butt in my case is I bought all the stuff to do the dash, but its been so freaking cold. Also I tried once but the clips or something are a challenge. So one time I was driving and then the lights finally came on and yellow low gas light. You always just wonder if it would over heat. The one thing I can say is the car is so freaking awesome! Everyone at my work making 100k wants my car. People still let me go in front or turn first. This car is a head turner and just so freaking pretty! I am still lin love and the ride is awesome! There is honestly nothing like it. When you need the power just hit the gas. When you want to look kewl tint the windows and raise the roof. Dont forget the kick as. glasses and you look like a VIP. Have the hot lady and you look like a super VIP! Have fun and long live the LS. I might get a new thermostat and at the same time do the brakes and rotors.

Just had my thermostat replaced and then changed to prestone wonder fluid instead of the regular (previously in engine). As it works out my engine running temp is slightly higher then before. I would say it is about 43% from the bottom. Maybe an 1/8" above second bar... Anyone else in that range? Or see different temps with fluids?

Yeah thanks. The manager was an idiot. So yes I am going to go there and then contact the area rep. Actually I am going to go to the other Firestone and contact the area rep. For sure I was one kewl cat. Just drove 200 miles and the guy is like just clean them and it will come off. Then he stated "they did not do it." Then he went on to say, "I have to bring him the proper tool." Bottom line is he is screwed.. Wants to play a game like I have to bring a tool... He broke the contract for the BLIZZAKS... I want him to take them back. Then I want $500 for my wheels and refund for the allignment. So whats that about $1150 and he can have the sh--ty BLIZZAKS (good tire by the way)... Ohh yeah since the idiots put my front left on the front left and its 15k without a rotation the thread is crappy so I am going to make them liable for that. So a total of $1350.... CHAAAAA CHING!! As for the wheels they are okay overall. There is damage, but if you were 15' away it would be hard to see. A few .5" dents are the biggest deal. Also I am not happy that there is other nicks where the lugs go. Anyone ever touch up the silver polished.

Is it worth to replace when boot is torn.. Or just want till popping and noise?

Anyone have any guidance on my polished silver wheels. For the most part idiots damaged them when they removed the BLIZZAK's and went to summer tires. The kicker is I purchased a lifetime alignment for 120 bucks. Not a bad deal and the idiots forgot to do it. Also they did not rotate my LS-V Tauranza as I requested. So now I have 10k wear on one tire with all different amounts on others. IDIOTS The damage consists of about 12 dings in the enterance of the lug nut holes. Some are up to .5 inches long. This really sucks, but I am not sure what to request for compensation since tires can no longer be purchased. They cost $1200+ and in they are damaged. Manager stated they can be cleaned... NO.. We did not do it.. Then changed his tune when he realized I spent about 3k in 2 years there. Nice to know your customer service is based on how much money you spend... Although we all knew that. There is about 4 holes that have a minor dent. Maybe from impact of the socket as they were entering hole? I watched them install and it was all power with no delay. Like a race car. I was horrified and pisted off.

Tell the insurance skum you want to buy the car back. They might sell for almost nothing. They just move forward as you find parts. Maybe its not worth your time.. Either way it really sucks to see the LS like that.

Never let a lady drive the LS. Man just buy all used parts and get it fixed. Sorry for the accident!

3) Brake light indicator- This one has killed me. I've spent the past four days tracing harnesses and replacing bulbs to no avail. There was mention of a resistor in a few threads but nothing detailed, has anyone gotten this problem to go away completely and if so, what size/wattage resistor is required? I'm not worried about cruise for the most part since it's an in town car, but that light coming on erratically is the most annoying thing I've ever dealt with. You'd think on a 'premium' car you wouldn't have these issues. My light would not go out after I put LED's in the rear. I guess there is a different amount of resistance in bulb or something. So I put a piece of electrical tape over projector and no longer see that stupid light. Additionally I did the same to seatbelt light. Cheers to LS

Lead that is interesting.. So it is fixed...

Its the black jade or green sparkles. It must have a clear coat since it is pealing. I am going to put some fingernail clear coat on it. The problem is when it is 10 degrees and your car is white from salt. One has to wash off the salt or else it may damage the LS.

Just had a car wash at some Dixie cleaners in upstate NY. The soft cloth had extremly high pressure wash. So a bit of my clear coat on the back is on the brink of coming off. Can one put fingernail paint or super glue to protect?

Tonight I am going to test the BLIZZAK tires in CT.... So far they are very loud, but good. They do the job and are enabled me to use stock wheels during the winter. I have a 93 and it is awesome.

Anyone have more details on burping the antifreeze system? Cheers