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AWJ

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Everything posted by AWJ

  1. First step, determine timing. Address some oil spillage issues. Powder coating. A lot of it. Turbo overhaul. Aggressive tune - stretch this little snail out and upgrade. Oh, some new body stuff and things will happen.
  2. Those wheels are just shy of totally awesome. If they were wider and offered enough clearance, I'd make an offer. Keep them unless you upgrade brakes and must sell them.
  3. Jason, I'd do a full tune up. 600 to 800 bones from a reputable source. Depending on miles. Replace all plugs, check wires, dist, cap, button. I'd change all fluids. I'd replace all O^2 sensors, mains, subs. This will increase your cost a little but it will be well worth it in the long run. I'd look at the catalytic converters. Replace them or remove them. Removing them will not help the emissions issue, but if all other things are working correctly, a hot motor with not cats could pass emissions. I think you are correct on that code, I've run it before here on this site. Should be able to search it out. Make sure all your belts are good as well as power steering and alternator for good measure. Good luck.
  4. Best thing to use would be a Supra TT harness (Fields). They are hard to come by and very expensive. The OEM SC3 harness can be modified. I don't know how. Get the factory service manuals for the SC3 and the year motor TT to be used and find out is the only way. Or pay someone who knows. There is info on Supraforums about this. They have the same issue when putting a gte in a NA car. Also, fly hawaii (google) will produce a manual available.
  5. On second thought, this is probably easier. Thank the guy with the MAF question, I would not have looked otherwise. Guess I'm bored today. I love vacation. If only it weren't so freakin cold. I might go work on the car.
  6. Tell your parts source that you have a 1993 non turbo supra SE or something. That will get you parts that fit. Same brakes.
  7. Not sure if this will work. Try at your own risk. I highly recommend the Lexus factory service manuals if you are going to do this stuff. They are worth their weight in gold. Here goes nothing - there are many ways to accomplish the same thing, some harder than others. I have no idea what the best way is. IK1 connector engine and cluster side. Engine side off ignitor harness has terminals in red. Wiring schem from 1995 supplemental. Engine wiring diagram pages 42 and 43. Image is also in the gallery. High res. You should be able to save it, open in paint and view things closer if necessary. Good luck. Don't count on this service being available all the time. I do what I can but not so much lately. Frankly, I'm not sure if it's even on track. IT should be. Can't hurt to try. Get your manuals and rely on no one.
  8. AWJ

    IK1

  9. Ouch bro. Hot to trot eh? I can respect that. Corky Bell is the guru I have come to reference. The book? Maximum Boost. There is a manual assembled by a fellow from Hawaii. I believe he sold his rod but he may still offer the manuals. Reference fly hawaii the SC300 swap in google or here. If I can help feel free. Use my pm. Good luck and happy holidays everyone.
  10. that's right
  11. That's right. Better safe than sorry though I always say.
  12. probably not in good tune. It might run slightly rich. As soon as you start changin flow characterstics with intake and exhaust mods, you lean the ratio by some factor regardless. Probably a minimal and insignificant amount, but when you are flirting on the edge with power adders this becomes important. Colder plugs are a good step to take, but you still need to monitor them to make sure they are the correct heat range. I can get flow specs off the stock pump if necessary. It'll be a day or so though. The factory service manuals help imensely when making these kinds of decisions. Typically, oem controls are designed to run as lean as possible. That doesn't mean the mix doesn't go rich at wot, I can't say for sure. I can say that the condition will change between vehicles even of the same model year and make depending on condition and individual differences. Best to use a wideband on chasis dyno before and after the juice installation to compare wot ratio's.
  13. Very nice.
  14. A 75 shot should be safe but you would want to make sure by using a wideband on a dyno. Start with a 50 shot and check your plugs for few weeks to monitor condition. You can jet up further if things are copesetic. Consult a good tuner and you should have no problems. Worst case is an larger pump will give insurance. But the stock system should be able to handle it with proper installation.
  15. I have to agree with that except the powerplant should be the 3.0 for turbo reasons. :D Sounds cool. I'd go if I could.
  16. Probably not very long friend. I can't say for sure though. Best to get it fixed asap.
  17. yep... sorry for late reply
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