AWJ

Very nice Matt... I might get in on that... let me check a couple things...

That is exactly what I would do Marty. Good luck. Let us know how it goes...

Right on... I think I saw it somewhere else ;)... one for the archives... I have an idea of what to put in there...

seen this?

Looks pretty cool. Something like that would be a nightmare to fit.

It does. thanks bro. I'm going to have to go on the assumption that my balancer has moved. And keep my fingers crossed. I'll update once I button everything up.

Excellent advice fellas. No one else has tuned in on this on any other forums. Maybe I'm presenting it in a cofusing matter or not clearly stating my question. There are way too many variables here. I know the car is not set to OEM timing. The car runs fine. No MIL's, hesitations or mises, preignition/detonation is not a major issue. I have experienced it very few times. I am over due on a spark plug change. That is coming very shortly. The car was set up with a fresh tune by Toyomoto just before I bought it in '02 Due to the fact that the car was running fine, I'm going ahead with my plans noting the crank time position. I will put everything back together after I've finished my additions and maintenance items. Provided the balancer did not move - I will check timing again and see where it is. I would honestly hope it's at the same position so I can go from there. The only thing I will change ignition related is the plugs. Problem is, I have to remove the distributor to fix the oil leak. I'll do my darndest to get it back as close as possible to where it is now. Then I will go tuning. I will update once I get things back together. This issue is going to be deeper than what I can find on the internet I think.

Move the front seats all the way forward. Get in there. Grab the bottom rear seat cushion. It's all one piece. Maybe start on the passenger side or driver side first. Doesn't really matter. Grab the bottom and pull straight up with force. It will release from some clips in the cab frame. Do that on both sides, the bottom will now be free to pull out of the car. The backs are bolted and clipped from there. You will be able to see the bolts. Remove them, them pull on the back and it will release too. Extremely simple. I might suggest when you reinstall them to make sure the seat belts don't go behind the back like I did on accident. Also, when removing the bottom, be careful. The plastic seat bealt clips around the latch can break.

Good stuff fellas. jzz30 - I might not mind catching up with that cat on the IS. Did he do his install? I'm not familiar with his build aside from that link to his thread on the mysterious knock issue.

So I put my timing concerns on another thread. I'll post the pic here to because I may need to reference my work in the future. All other things equal, is this advance or !Removed!? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/uploa..._1105223014.jpg

You are the only person to give any input on this directly between two websites. I haven't gone to SF or IS.net yet. I'm thinking about it. My car runs the oem ecu. The only thing affecting timing at this point is the oem control. I do have a haltech f5. But as I understand it is only affecting auxillary injector cut in and operation as a linear function of boost. This puts the fuel there. Timing is taken car of still at oem parameters. So I figure there was some sort of mechanical measure taken at the distributor. From what I have been able to determine on my own through searching (I went to bed a 4:45 am this morning) - there are several possiblilities. 1. There is something wrong with my ignition system. I don't think so, because the car really seems to run fine overall. Worst case is the plugs could use replacement. 2. The harmonic balancer has physically moved from its correct position, putting the timing mark where I see at light pulse, because it physically is in the wrong place. I'll check this today if I can determine a method. There is also a way to find tdc in relation to #1 cylinder by manually turning the motor with some sort of indicator throught the #1 spark plug hole. This would show me what I'm dealing physcially on a 360* crank rotation. 3. My timing is set at 25* from the zero on the timing case. This would mean my spark fires at 15 degrees before it would normally. I would expect this to cause preignition or even detonation. Unless I am perceiving this incorrectly and to compress the a/f mixture after firing is !Removed! while compressing before firing is advance. I really would benefit to figure this out before I change plugs, remove the distributor, or frankly - go anywhere else from here. Where is Tuning Concepts located? Thanks for your input.

Click on the links ... the mechanical action creates a hitting at stop from open and close that is picked up by the knock sensor and timing is pulled. That's a bad thing. The car thinks it's detonating every time that butterfly actuates. You could map it all day long. Even then, to do that would require a complete standalone to even catch that as the cause. It really has nothing to do with spool. But could have everything to do with getting nice smooth curve. My concern was with restriction and loss/gain of torque down low. But with a perceived knock, it's pointless. The last link illustrates this clearly.

So it's really not so great but... well, great for a motor on oem tune.

What do ya think? So I have to pull the distributor due to an oil leak there. I've always suspected base timing was changed when the prev owner had the turbo conversion done. So I checked the timing. Let the car head up, jumped t1 and e1, hooked up the light. The mark is way out at like 25 btdc. I moved the pick up to a few spots around the #1 wire and it was the same every time. Checked several times. I expected it would be different but not so much. Here's a pick of blown up fsm shot and actual garage shot. The mark is outside the number range. I take it the farthers counter clockwise the box is 20 and it's about 5 out from there. See for yourself, so I'm not crazy. That's harder to see than I thought. The yellow is the edge of the box and the 10 (mid box). Purple is around the white timing mark. Guess you'll have to take my word for it. But that's where it is. Here's the full size.

fizzle dizzle http://www.is300.net/forums/showthread.php...butterfly+knock Thanks be Gazi

something to chew on: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthrea...ustic+induction

The naturally aspirated 2jz-ge engine features a secondary flapper in the intake manifold plenum. It opens for long runner feature at low rpms = torque and closes (I think that is how it works) at higher rpms. I think you guys know I'm pressurizing this system. My question is, Would I benefit by removing this? In the keep it simple approach, this seems to me (ACIS that is) to be a hyped up gimmik providing restriction to flow. Thoughts?

Vertex Widebody is news to me. Pics?

Only one way to find out.

Signs point to yes. ;)

ld5000 jams laser - I heard it go off once in 3 years. In florida on I75. UN3000 claims to jam - but main purpose is early warning. I don't see how a cop could tell there is a k40 system if it's powered off. They feature vg2 and beyond. It has saved my !Removed! - I only have the rear sensor hooked up. It has shown signals ahead of me. I need to get a new front sensor if anyone has a hook up.

That's right my man. It's a t3/t04b with GN style flanges. The manifold is a one of a kind as far as I know. The damn thing is internally gated. Basically, my goal at this time is to address the fluid leakage (just slight oil spots) at the distributor and turbo return line. The guy who sold me the car could tell me zero specs on the turbo. I'm going to take it apart and measure the wheel diameters. I know it is not the typical t04. Lance did something to the hot side/cold side - had it spec'd direct from Garrett for the car and it's application at the time. The housings could use some attention for clean up. Last time I had the compressor blades exposed, I tweaked on the shaft a little and felt that shaft play was acceptable. The blades looked like they were loosing some type of coating though, or had some type of build up on them. Bigger wheel is possible but not likely. The car currently maxes at approx. 25 psi wich I have reached on one or two occasions. This is at 10:1. The dyno graphs I have show really conservative numbers. I think I can get 400hp to the wheels with the current set-up. Like I said, I'll pull it apart until I'm satisfied I've gone far enough. Probably put a wideband on it. Of course, new plugs are in order. Then I've got a guy in Lexington in mind whom I would like to have slap it up on rollers and give it all she's got. If it does 400hp, I'll keep it at that for little while making her pretty. I think I'm feelin' the show route for it. Not 100% on that but if so, I don't need to go farther. But it would be very cool. Sky is the limit. Keeping it simple now. The car will get air suspension and repaint before the turbo set-up is replaced with something a little more flowable (something from SP with a tubular header and fuel system). I'll update.