nc211

Hahaha, looks like I picked the wrong week to quit smoking. I told those hill-jacks not to touch the car, I went and got it and simply took to the dealer this morning. Indi mechanics see a lexus, and they hear "cha-ching" in their heads. My guy I trust doesn't have the proper tools to press out bushings, so I had to find somewhere that did, which ultimatly led me to the dealer. I just want it done, period. If it's that darn expensive, then I want it done right, the first time. So the dealer got it.

Well apparently this wonderful little shop is actually nothing more than a repair broker of sorts. It appears these snakes weren't doing the work, but were taking it to the dealer and then charging me dealer rate PLUS their shop rate. I figured it out this morning at the dealer, the guy said we looked at this yesterday, when it was at the other shop! Now I know why the guy at the indi shop said he felt the vibration at 45 I was talking about. I was like "why are you driving it? I didn't ask you to diagnose the problem, just put on my new parts". So, they're done. If you're in Raleigh, stay away from Bayleaf Texaco repair shop on the corner of Mount Vernon Church Rd and Six Forks. They'll rip you off big time.

1UZ-FE, I'm here in Raleigh too. I bought my 95 from Johnson with 85k miles. I'm curious, how do you feel about their service ability? I've had decent history, not great, but decent. How about you?

How much does it cost to replace these two bushings in labor? Or should I say, does anyone know the labor time it takes? Is it easy, difficult, or impossible. I'm asking because one mechanic told me it would cost $550 in labor to replace these two bushings. Does that sound right? He also wanted $200 for the front strut rods in labor as well. And the rear carrier bushings? Forget about it, he was insane. I think they're taking to the dealer, then charging me a bit more on top of that. $950 for 4 bushings and two strut arms with 6 bolts? Just for labor? Am I crying over nothing, or getting ripped off.

Alldata is a must in my opinion. You will learn about all the tsb "technical service bulletins" for your year, and suggestions on upgraded parts Lexus has developed for your car. One in particular is a differential mounting update. Hey, you'll spend at least $25 at dinner taking your girl out for a night on the town in your new LS400, so what's $25 for the knowledge? I've got a 95, and Alldata, plus these forums, have saved me thousands of dollars by going in to the dealer blind "it's broke, please fix it". LS400's are awesome cars, but like any older car, you are best to understand how it works, so you know what needs to be fixed. Just ask Army, he's saved my tail a few hundred already.

Army, got one more question for ya' if you don't mind. I noticed last night on my way to dinner that when I apply the brakes, the gear shifter moves, quite a bit. It moves down and towards the lower gear setting, but get's stopped by the gate pattern. Do you think this would be attributed to a shifting differential housing as well? It doesn't move when pushing the gas, just when applying the brakes. In addition, does anyone have a diagram of instructions for installing the new front strut rods? I notice they have a gear mesh outer ring on the bushings, do the mechanics need to know not to tighten them down with the car still in the air with the rest of the suspension fully extented? I read on Andrew Valmos website about installing his bushings not to tighten them with the suspension at max extension, otherwise it will rip the rubber to pieces. Thanks!!!

I'm curious, isn't there a zinc type material bar you can connect to the vehicle's frame that helps to prevent corrosion? I know the crab cage guys use this for thier cages when crabbing off the coast, it works too, works very well. I think it emits a small earth current through the metal on the cages that prevents rust from taking hold. As you can imagine, metal submurged in salt water for months on end would be the best test I could think of. Anybody else know of this?

Silvermate, that's me too. Not quite at the metal on metal, but very very close. I got the popping noise, and clunking. I can't wait to get this fixed! Nothing drives me more insane then having a borken toy. I rode in a 99' the other day with 50k miles, it was sooo smooth. I can't wait for mine to be that way too!

pachocco1, it made a significant difference in the overall feel of the car didn't it. Brought it back to that new feeling, solid, sure, and smooth.

I've read hundreds of threads on the bushings in the control arms, strut rods, engine mounts, tranny mount and rear carrier bushings. I have also read several about that annoying lurch our cars have from p to d or p to r. I have a 95, with 95k miles. I have that lurch, I have that annoying vibration. But what I also have is a cracked rear differential bushing. Not a suspension component, not a engine mounting, but an actual driveline mount problem in the rear. I'm curious why I can't seem to find a lot of talk about these two mounts. Are they not that prone to break? You can see my photo and what I'm talking about on the "Ride getting Harsh" thread. Basically, my whole rear differential shifts, and wiggles around now because of this. Does anyone have any other past history with these two bushings? Anybody else have one go out? Thanks!

Forgot one thing with that photo. I took that with it the car in park and the e-brake engaged "driveway on a hill". The brake is holding the car in place, not the transmission. If I take the brake off and look at that bushing, it sags to the bottom, quite badly. I would have to say under normal acceleration loads, that thing probably moves all over the place.

bicol-ini, hello again. Got yet another question for ya' if you don't mind. I have just purchased the same adus rear carrier bushings from the dealership "$75" for both. But, I have no idea where they go? They say "carrier" but I can't seem to find that term on any diagrams? Do they mean rear strut rod? Can you send me one of your number charts again with the number of the part, like we did last time for the front strut rod? I would post it myself, but I'm out of room. I'm about to redu the whole setup. thanks amigo

I think I might have found the wobble hobble problem. I purchased two new rear differential bushings a few weeks ago after reading a tbs about smoother acceleration from 40-60. Yesterday I got under the car and found where they go "haven't put them on yet". After looking at the old ones, it became obvious that the rubber on one has a crack in it. I've attached a photo I took of it. I think this differential bushing might be the problem. I've got that lurching from d to r when cold, and it just seems loose back there. So I think I'm getting warmer. Take a look. I know the increadible improvements the motor and tranny mounts made. I'm starting to think maybe the previous owner's 16 year old son might have had some fun with the car when daddy was away. The engine and tranny mounts made a huge difference when replaced. I'm betting this will too. I'd almost put money on the fact that Jr. had a lead foot with a V8 once or twice and tore some bushings in the process. You know what they say...when the cat's away, the mice will play. I can't blame him, I did the same thing back in my day with my dad's 86' acura legend. Army, I can't seem find a chart for those carrier bushing placements anywhere. Got any other ideas? I might just call the dealership and ask them what they replace. I'll tell them I've got my own shop at home.

PS: One more thing.....Where do the carrier bushing go in the rear? Now that's I bought them, where do I put them? Hahahaha. Guess I should have figured that out before hand.....Did you guys know the dealership sells just the bushings for the carrier now, not the whole assembly? They sold me something called "Adus 505" for 90-99 ls 400's. Got some number on them of 48000 and 50505. They're rubber too, not plastic. Of course I paid stealership price of $75 for them, but I'm on a time crunch and couldn't find them via internet. Got any pictures or diagrams where these go? Do they replace the bushings in the rear strut rod? So many different names for the same parts it seems like. Dealer calls strut rods by the name of caster arms, but they're the exact same thing. Go figure? Thanks!

Army, I agree with you completely, I just can't justify NOT fixing something so sweet as this car, there are no better deals on the road. So what if my $14k car turns into $17k, it's a Lexus right and like Blake says, it's got a long life ahead. I have ordered new strut rods and just picked up carrier bushings from the dealer. I've got one hell of a wicked vibration under acceleration from the tranny area. The tranny mount is new. The dealership recommended last time the carrier bushings be replaced. I think he's right. The car wobbles / shakes and hops like crazy under acceleration. Take your foot off the gas, pop it in neutral, and it goes away. I think it's a combo of the carrier bushings and strut rods letting the wheels wiggle around. The car makes a "clunk" noise in the front when hitting bumps. It used to be at slower speeds and major bumps or dips in the road where the suspension would travel quite a bit, but now it's becoming more and more noticable. I'm hoping it's those front strut rods like Blake had issues with. I tried to figure out if I need rear ones too, but the site I order from only lists one, not rear left and rear right. Are the rear ones prone to wear out fast also? Basically, I'm trying to isolate those control arms, I'm circling them with new parts. Do you guys know how long before those typically need to be replaced due to shot bushings? Jade: I agree with you too. However, if that guy didn't do a good job, I'll call his loan due! Hahahaha, one of the perks of being a commercial / business lender. He knows I'm not one to cheap shot, especailly the low fee I charged him for his start up loan. Blake: I did find your thread. Wish I had a hurricane in my right, and beads in my left today down on burbon street. My front tires were wearing out on the outsides. Just had them rotated and you can really tell the difference. Guys, please let me know about the rear strut rods when you can. I'm taking my girlfriend down to Tybee Beach, GA this upcoming weekend to ask her to marry me, and I really want the car to cruise smoothly by this Friday. If you say I need them, I'll get them. I'm planning on putting it in the shop on Wednesday, testing it out that night, and if need be, put back in on Thursday. I've resigned myself to the $2 grand investement to get her back up to snuff. I just want to enjoy this beauty for what it's really worth! A smoooth, sweet machine. PS: Ordered two new weatherstips for the front doors as well, got wind noise and no cushion when closing the doors. You guys rock! Thanks amigos!!

Thanks ole' friend! By the way, thanks for the photos earlier! I've got a project to do this weekend now! Anyone ever replaced the weatherstipping on the doors? Is it a tough job? Mine need it, years of being slammed shut has mushed them down, and loosened up the door parts. They rattle when going over bumps.

VGR, I agree completely with you. But that's the thing I don't get, the previous owner was a commercial real estate lending outfit and the president owned the car. I know him, he's an older man who drove like it. He used it when he had to hit the road for a property inspection, so the miles were all highway. I've had it for 9k miles, and I drive it like a boat, not a jetski. That is the whole reason why I got rid of my 01 Maxima SE for it, I don't drive like a speed freak and was tired of the ride a speed freak type car gave. The dealer told me the back carrier bushings were shot, but he also said my motor mounts were fine, which they were not. I think just the age of the car is wearing out the softness of the rubber mounts. The motor mounts looked like pancakes and sent a lot of engine noise into the cabin. I think I'll start with the rear carrier's and new strut rods all around. I'd rather just bite the bullet now in one large lump, then have to deal with this every month. Any suggestions on the drive shaft causing a wobble? Is this common? or should I be looking at the differential mounting instead? I've got new bushings for the differential mount, just not installed.

I don't hear any groaning from the steering, I just think all the bushings in the car are shot, all of them. 10 years is about the max life span for rubber. Here's something I'm trying to justify, and need your advice. I bought this car last May with 85k miles, paid $14,200 from Lexus dealer. Had the 90k service done as condition of purchase. Here's my delima, the fact is, the bushings are shot. The car creaks when going over bumps, it's got wobbles, rear carriers are shot. I've already replaced the motor mounts, tranny mount, lower ball joint and that made a huge difference in smoothness and quiet ride. In your honest opinion, is this car worth the $2,500 it's going to take to replace the control arms, strut mounts and steering mount? Or am I going to do this, then 5 months later have another wack to the credit card. Imho, $17,000 for a car that will go another 100k miles is a good deal, no matter what badge it wears, but not if it's going to nickle and dime me to death. I know the car was taken good care of by the dealer, it's in great shape. But I guess I ask you this Obi One, your experience on this forum, are the control arm's the biggest improvement a guy like me can do, and will it last? I'm ready to either sign off on accepting the creaks, wobbles and just drive it for a few years then sell it, or dump the money in, fix it all up, and enjoy a true lexus ride, but only if it's worth it. Thanks Army, I'll contact blake918 and see if he'll take a read of this thread.

By the way, I've been reading some of the other posts, it sounds like you've got one sweet pad! Pool and all! Nice!!

Does anyone have a diagram on how to remove the front interior door panels on a 95 ls? They've come loose over the years and rattle, they need some attention. Thanks!

Funny you mention that, it's starting to feel as if there is some play, I notice a small bit of wandering. I just had the lower ball joints replaced. It doesn't really come back to center, it sort of just stays where it is, but that also depends on my speed too. The wobble feels like a tire is not on very tightly, does that make sense? You know when you see a car and the tire is wobbling around? It feels like that, but not as severe.

Would they also cause a wobble when accelerating? Especially felt in the steering wheel. I just had it balanced and ailigned at dealership. Strut rods? Are they the #12 part in this picture I attached? Or do you mean the strut itself? Thanks Army!

I've got a 95 with 94k miles. I traded my 2001 maxima se for it. Have not a single complaint, not one. These cars last forever, and they are sooooo nice to drive, especially on a road trip. They are expensive to fix, but if you do your research here, you'll find places to buy the oem parts for cheap "relatively speaking". The only thing that really seems to wear out are the rubber bushings in the suspension. You have to buy whole new control arms, not just the bushing. But there are guys out there that are manufacturing just the bushings. These don't go until around the 100k mark, some last longer. Mine are getting close. Other than that, you'll love having a LS400! They are the best used car deal on the planet, period. You can't beat getting a top of the line luxury automobile with no depreciation hit. I paid $14k for mine w/ 84k miles. I had the 90k mile service performed as a condition of the sale. These cars aren't even fully broken in until they hit 80k miles. Buy it! It's a great deal and good price. You'll be like us, just amazed by it and happy! :D

I've got a 95 ls400 w. 94k miles. I'm noticing the ride is starting to slip. I'm feeling all the cracks in the road now from the front and through the steering wheel. I've replaced the lower ball joints, all motor and tranny mounts too. I'm wondering if it's bushings or strut cushions? It feels loose, doesn't have that quiet and smooth feel over bumps. If I go over one of those marker lights in the road, good lord, sounds and feels like I ran over a curb. Any suggestions oh masterful ones? Thanks!

I have a 95 with 94k miles, had the "jerking" issue happen shortly after I bought it with 85k miles. Thanks to these forums, I was able to understand what it was. And thanks to that "90 day / 3000 mile window warranty" the dealership put on it, I was able to get it fixed for free. But, it took some serious words and few legal terms to get them to do it. The ECU units in most of the 95 and 96 models have this flaw. Once you have it fixed, it's fixed for good. No jerking, no stalling and smoother shifting. The old ecu has a programming flaw that drops the fuel flow too quickly, causing the engine to suffer "off-throttle shock". Now if I could just wack that darn vibration issue that everyone else has too! LOL. :chairshot: I got new motor mounts, tranny mounts, ball joints, the standard issue stuff already.