vissine

Hi, last few days, when I started up my car, I heard the noise sound like from the transmission area, but the car worked fine. I didn't realize that was a warning sign. Today, when I drove it the RPM was up to 3000 but the car didn't move as it should, It felt like slipping. Turn off the engine and started up again, then I could drive up to 40 mph with 2nd gear. A few years back, I had a similar problem and it was a dirty filter and worked after I changed the fluid. Since it's been just 10k from my previous flush, I think clogging up filter now does not make sense. Do you have any experience about this? I do not think the fluid is low since it covers the hot mark when the engine is at hot. I searched for transmission pump but couldn't find anything. Nearest dealership is about 2 hours away so taking it there is out of option. Do you think AAMCO can handle Lexus LS400? Can Toyota dealer repair it? For Lexus transmission, I do not like to take it to Mr. "fix any car" mechanic

I think a bunch of codes when engine does not run does not mean anything. Any code when the engine runs would help. Your case maybe just a battery or charging circuit problem.

Did you check water temperature sensor circuit?

Try to hit hard (with your hand) on the dashboard on the top of the odometer. Some times, the needle works again.

I replaced my timing belt two years ago. I used the instruction on Lexls web site. Mine is 2nd generation so there were some hiccup but I got it done. Thank to the instruction, without it I didn't think I want to try at all since Haynes did not have book for Lexus and Lexus' repair book was expensive (even now). It was just patience and remembered to follow steps by steps backward. It took me some good amount of time to put it back on, then had to remove it for other parts to come in first. The rule is: what comes out first will be the last to get back in.

The new TPS seems to work fine. I loosed the cruise control cable (the cable connect to the cruise control actuator) a bit and it did the trick. Took it for a drive test and the cruise control worked as it should. So, no more speeding up when I set cruise control.

Hi guys, I replaced my new Throttle sensor today. When I take it out for a test drive, everything is working fine but the cruise control is not working as it should. I wonder if it has anything to do with the new throttle sensor. I got the part from a Lexus dealer. Any hint is appreciated. The cruise control problem is: When I drive at about 40 mph, I set cruise control thinking everything is fine. However, the rpm jumps up and the car moves pass 50 mph. Since it was weird, I didn't wait to see if it increases to 60, 70 or not. I repeated several times with different speeds, it still accelerates each time I set it to cruise control. I am thinking to swap the old throttle sensor back in, but I rather check with other experts first.

I am thinking "alternator".

If your key does not have embed chip, you can just get it from dealer. They will cut the key for you for about $60 (no force entry needed). Check the price at dealer and do not listen to lock Smith guy, s/he will try to scare you about the cost at dealer for a key. And Lock Smith guy will have to bend the door to some extent to reach the unlock button. Even if Lock smith can open the driver door for you, you cannot open the trunk anyway, so if your keys are in the trunk, you cannot get them.

Yes, pour trans fluid directly into the dipstick pipe, whatever its name is.

Be very careful with the connectors. With its age, the connectors are easy to break.

I replaced all 4 O2 sensors (Denso) a few years back. I bought without connectors, cut the wires and solder them back. All were replaced within 2 hours.

How about check engine compression?

Do you know that total transmission system is about 8-9 quarts? I don't know how you drain it, but each time you can only drain about 2 quarts in the pan.

Thanks Exhaustgases for your reply. The ECU was bad. I swapped it with a spare that I bought a few years back.The code went away.

Has anyone had experience with OBD II code P0773 - shift Solenoid. My 96 Lexus starts giving me this code. Do you know where the solenoid is?

Are these the old plugs? No, these are new plugs. The old ones are BKR6EIX.

It's nice to know that someone came along and did replace the starter. That will give me encouragement to do it when happen. It took me about 16 hours on the timing belt. It was not easy but straightforward. The instruction I found on the web was for models between 90-94 so there were different. I don't mind paying someone to do the job, but worst case is to tow to a shop. At least, It has not happened yet. Thanks for the write up.

Don't be afraid. I replaced it a few months ago. In my case, I had to drain coolant and unplugged the hose to the bottom of the radiator; removed the ignition coil; removed the cable organizer; used 19 mm socket to open it. It took about 2 hours, but easy. You only need to remove the plastic part of the air intake so you can remove the spark plugs & distributor cover panel. I don't think it is easier than the O2 sensor replacement and requires more work. But, at the time, I replaced the catalysts at the time I replaced the O2 sensors, so I had plenty of room to work.

Iridium BKR6EIX-11. I was told not to gap them so I assumed the old plugs were gap correctly.

Just to let you know that I've got the problem taken care of. I replaced all 8 spark plugs and the problem went away. It doesn't make sense to me because I replaced them last year.

Thanks billydpowell. I used new OEM gaskets but didn't work. I will have to do it again. I was thinking to double the gaskets or use one gasket and add an layer of gasket sealer on the top side. I also think the CATs are noisy but as long there is no error code I would leave them alone as they are quiet expensive.

This thread is old, I just want to mention that changing these 2 gaskets is easy. You need to remove both sides at the same time and the pipe will drop by itself. It shouldn't take more than 1 hour (if you don't face problem like me that the gaskets are still leak after installing new gaskets).

Yesterday, I managed to replace all four seals before and after both CATs (passenger and driver sides). However, when I finished installing the gaskets, I notice that both flange gaskets (rear, the ones with 2 bolts,between the CATs and the y connectors) have open on the top side, meaning the tops are not closed and air is leaking out. Is there any suggestion what I should do to close them? I found this kind of gasket that may work for my case, I will try and let you know. BTW, the noise is still there.

I got this car about 2 years ago and it started to make noise about 7-8 months back. I have not tried using lower octane but I will try it next time to see what's going on. I recently added Chevron Techron but it didn't help much. The recommendation is every 1,000 so I will try it a few times next few thousand miles. Do you think if the timing belt have anything to do with the sound? I am going to check the timing this weekend to see if there is any problem there. BTW, I notice there is a leak on the rear of right CAT and plan to replace all the gaskets on both CATs this weekend.