vissine

I scanned the engine but no error found. I have 220k miles on it. Should I just replace the sensors anyway since they may have been out of specs?

I have been searching around but haven't found a right answer. It happens to my 96 LS400. Every morning, even in summer, when I start up the engine, drive and accelerate up to about 1700 rpm and I can hear the knocking sound from the engine (somewhere behind the air vent) the the power was not great. My AC and fans are off. The noise continues for about less than 10 minutes and gone after that, and the car power is back. Sometimes I let it warm up for 10 minutes, but when I drive, the noise is still there for a few minutes. I use Shell and Exxon premium gas. Sparks plugs and cables , pcv, and ECT sensor are new. Am I missing anything?

I replaced all 3 mounts just a month ago. As mentioned above, the rear and driver sides were easy but the passenger side was a pain (although it looked easy as I didn't have to deal with the steering rack. I didn't have to touch the steering rack by the way and didn't do alignment after replacing them.

I would verify if the circuit is still good before building the cluster. Since all parts have been replaced and are good, next step should be troubleshooting. If you remove the cable connected to the coolant temperature sensor and short that circuit (or at the ECM itself), the temperature should jump to High for HOT. If it is not --> the problem maybe with the circuit (or the ECM).

I plugged these lines for a few weeks while awaiting for the replacement. Although I noticed the difference was small, I thought the engineers came up the design for a reason. In your case, increase the idle rpm a bit may solve the issue.

Your diagram is correct,the side from where you drift out the old bearing faces the engine. Thanks steve2006, I feel the pulley is wobbling although I torque it correctly.

Thanks for the information! With the cost difference and time consume, I decided to replace the tensioner pulley ($30) instead of the whole assembly ($250). You were right, I had to turn counterclockwise to open. Apply light force for a 14 mm head is good enough. It took me less than 10 minutes. I start the car and notice that the noise that has bothered me for quite a few months is now gone. But, I need to drive a few days to be sure.

"Is there a link with pictures showing how to service this sensor?" Here is the Link By the way, you should check if any cable was unplugged during the service. If the car ran fine before AC evaporator service, then It cannot just happen to fail the temperature sensor.

I installed the idler pulley. But I am not sure i installed it correctly. Can someone verify if my drawing is correct? Top side: Bolt -- washer -- pulley --> engine. Or the pulley is upside down? My problem is when I shake the pulley, I feel like there is something wrong with its bearing.

I bought some parts from Autozone that didn't fit my cars especially the pulleys. First I thought I got the wrong one, but when I brought it back, the helper confirmed that was the only pulley on the screen.

I am going to replace both tensioner and idler pulleys. Idler pulley is pretty straight forward, but I am not familiar with tensioner pulley. Should I remove the assembly or just unbolt the bold that hold the tensioner pullley?

I replaced all four struts myself. Replacing front struts were fairly easy but it took me whole day for the rear. It took me about two hours just to remove the rear seat, mainly because I didn't know where the bolt locations were. The rest was straight forward. You need to remove the rear wheels, brake caliper, stabilizer links; remove the lower end bolt (don't pull it out yet), then remove top three bolts. Aligning the rear lower end was more difficult than the front and I had to use a hammer while I didn't need one for the front.

Did anyone actually follow this advice?

Last time I replaced the o-ring, I bent the water pump while separating the rectangular piece (you see in the picture that billydpowell uploaded). But then I was going to replace the water pump with timing belt anyway.

I doubt it has anything to do with mounts.

It seems you have two different problems. One is the radio and the other is the check engine lights.For the check engine light, you need to read the codes. Since yours is a 1996, you can read fault codes with the OBD II. After that, you will know what triggers check engine light.

You may want to check the power amplifier. If the amplifier is good, then the receiver maybe faulty.

Does the antenna extend when the radio AM/FM switched on? I notice the antenna is longer for AM.

Thanks landar! sha4000, I thought so because there was much room on the passenger side but when I raised the engine up, it didn't go anywhere. I spent much time on that side and broke the steering line when lifting the engine up.

It doesn't hurt to re-torque the lugs. Vibration does not have anything to do with alignment.

This thread is pretty old, but since I am still driving a LS400, this issue still valid. I replaced motor mounts today, passenger side was really difficult, I needed a helper and 2 chisels to get the mount in. Driver side was easy and transmission was too easy. The mount on driver side was broke in half, and I felt it when the RPM was over 1000. The vibration was continuous but reduced when RPM was above 2000. When I shift transmission from P to D, the car shook a bit because there was a crack on the transmission mount. There was nothing wrong with the mount on passenger side, but I like to replace them all so I took the bait.