bartkat

Hey knock it of with that bumping.

Yep thats what I am referring to. I used bad nomenclature, I meant the striker, not D-Ring. Its good to hear others fixed their problem the same way. Its been about 15kmiles since I fixed it and it has not come back. Yeah. I've read at least 3 people that have done that with good results.

If you run the heater on "auto" it should switch to "recirculate" when you're stopped if it's not keeping the temp up to par. It's easy to check the coolant. Just pop the hood and look at the plastic container behind the radiator. If you don't see coolant in there, go to Toyota and get Toyota Extra Long Life Coolant premix and fill that little tank about half full. After you drive some, check it again.

Agreed. Find another shop and start over from scratch.

so just any bulb with that color temp could work as long as its the size With that color temp it should look like the HID lights. However it really won't be as bright for seeing with. Something like MTEC super white would work. This dealer on Ebay is pretty good. I got my HID kit from them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MTEC-9006-X...sspagenameZWDVW

If you don't have problems with that or unusual tire wear or bouncy handling, then you probably don't need the new parts.

Find some bulbs that claim to have 4300 K color temp and they'll match pretty well.

At least that tells you that he is the original owner and that the car hasn't changed hands any.

Lexus dealer will inspect the car for a little over $120 or so. If you make an appointment it shouldn't take long. I believe they do the same inspection that they do when they take in a used car in trade. It's probably worth it if you can work that out. Another inspection might be by a body shop to check for any repairs, repainted areas, etc. We used to take a magnet and go over some parts of the car to see if there was Bondo anywhere. That won't work on the hood because it's aluminum, but it would on the other body parts. Carfax is ok, but they aren't totally accurate. They depend on body shops and police reports for accident and repair records, and not all of those report to Carfax.

On the plus side, that many miles in 2 years means there must be a lot of highway miles which most experts say is less wear than lots of town stop and go driving. If the guy drove 20 miles one way to work then about 1/2 to 2/3 of those miles was commuting. Find out if that was mostly open road driving.

So what kind of talking points should I go with to get price down? Tires? Brake pads? What other wear and tear items can I point out to try to get the price down? I priced it as excellent condition which would mean good tires, brakes, etc. So if any of that isn't like new, you should try to get the price down. Interior condition, seats, any appearance items. Make sure everything works like it should. The car is close to being out of warranty. That's another point to haggle on.

Edmunds takes off $1723 for hight mileage. Prices Private Party Sale at $24,934 http://www.edmunds.com/used/2006/lexus/is2...01/options.html

The only fluid (noise) might be coolant going through the heater core that's on the firewall behind the dash. Sometimes air can get in the coolant and cause some sound. We fixed that on the IS300 by putting the front of the car on jackstands, then running the engine and heater while adding some coolant to the fill tank on the radiator. Somehow that circulation and gravity gets rid of the air bubbles. Maybe the bubbles get out through the fill hole while the coolant circulates. Anyhow, most of the time it works.

Trust me. Clean the MAF, put the stock intake back on, reset the ECU and try it out.,

I don't know of any dummie for the MAF. If the MAF Isn't getting a proper reading the motor just isn't going to get the right signal to adjust the fuel/air mixture. The point about the turbulence from the fans is that the throttle body really is getting poor airflow and that's why it can stall. There are Sims for the Oxygen sensors in the exhaust though. Sometimes those are needed to get around CEL's from Headers or exhausts that eliminate any cats.

It doesn't matter how high the gas grade is if it has water or dirt in it. Not saying that's what it is, but it's a prime suspect.

Put the stock intake back on and see if the problem goes away. Sometimes the engine cooling fans cause turbulent air that messes up the air flow sensor when you have one of those big cone filters inside the engine bay. This most often happens when coasting to a stop or while stopped and idling. Aftermarket intakes can also cause a false signal from the air flow sensor due to having to relocate the sensor on the intake. While you're at it, get some electronics spray cleaner and clean the air flow sensor too.

If it's bad gas I don't think that would be Lexus' fault.

I'd look at that truck if it wasn't so far away and being wintertime out there.

I'm afraid of carjackers.

Most of it is copied here. http://my.is/forums/f104/ebay-find-day-2jzgte-truck-348202/

Copy the link, then go to ebay home page and paste the link in your browser.

What do you think abot this, smooth one? Too bad it's in Idaho. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Comp...1QQcmdZViewItem

Good memory, Bartkat!!! You should see that Indian casino now, it's about 15 stories high.....okay, off topic, I know. I just had to comment, sorry! That casino was kind of a dump then. I needed cash and there was a big line at the window and the ATM was out of order so I just left. LOL

Good luck. Just be careful. Studs are little metal "studs" that stick out of the tire tread for traction on ice. They aren't legal in lots of places because they tear up the roads. You shouldn't need them in snow, especially if your tires have a softer compound. Here's the Hakkas in action.