bartkat

I believe the alarm is going to go off at +/- 4 PSI from the initialization pressure. Also there are two selections on the panel. If you switch to the 2nd tire set, the alarm will go off since there are no sensors for that one. Tire pressure will also change 1 PSI for every 10 degree F change in the outside temperature.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...1&hl=AMSOIL http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...7&hl=AMSOIL http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=amsoil+motor There are quite a few oil threads, some of those ar linked above. I'd rather not get another one started as they ususally end up as *BLEEP*ing contests. Thanks.

I don't think there's an easy way to do that.

There's a little door/flap that's opened and closed by a servo motor. I think it's the one that directs air to the vents or to the floor. The little motor has probably failed or the control circuit board has gone bad. Take the glove box and filter out again and while watching and listening cycle the a/c heater switch off and on and see if you can locate the noise. The motor is just to the left of the blower fan if I remember correctly.

If you mean adjusting the vertical aim of the low beam headlights, here's the PDF file for that. http://my.is/forums/attachments/f90/10246d...eadlight-1-.pdf Use a phillips screw driver to turn the little cogged wheel from above. Only turn the one noted in the diagram for A, low beam adjustmen.

You're right, it's an old debate that's been beat to death and we aren't going to have another totally redundant marathon in this forum.

JoeZ sells them here: http://store.my.is/store/customer/product....t=10&page=1

Do you mean to change the car's readouts to the other system or just to do the calculations? For the calculations you can use this: http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm

It depends in all my years on oil (almost 20 young) I have never seen Amsoil, Redline etc or any other group4/5 used longer cause (blown up sitting....). Car dealer pull the same scare tactics which are BS. IF any engine fails ALL dealers will pull a UOA to see what is up; as I have stated for like 4 years on this forum. Manufactures trust customers zero. Amsoil cost me $29 plus $10 for a filter. And it last me 1 year (and UOA prove it works very well). I hope to hell you are not tossing $30 down the drain every 4 to 5K miles. If you are doing that, use the cheapest oil you can find and do not test. You will not like it. No matter what the cause, if your motor breaks down and you haven't been following the recommended oil change frequencies you're going to be in for a world of grief getting the problem resolved, rightly or not. I'd say most times it's going to be a fight. I've been doing the oil changes the same way for going on 50 years and I ain't about to change now. Always used Castrol back in the day and Castrol Synthetic Blend nowadays. While you recommend your practice for cars still in warranty, I don't. Better safe than sorry can sometimes save a lot of hassle. Happy New Year.

It's a hell of a lot easer just to change the oil at the recommended intervals than to have your car all blown up sitting by the side of the road while you go through all the headaches and heartaches of fighting with the car dealer or company over whether it gets fixed or not. After the warranty is up, do what ever you want. I'm getting my oil and filter changed every 4-5000 miles or 6 months and it costs me a whopping $29 per change. Big W00t.

Not a good idea to go the extended miles between changes as most of these cars are still under warranty.

Plenty of people have fitted 20" rims (open the link I posted and you'll see plenty on 250/350's), although IMO that's extreme as I have to be careful with my 19" because of the lower profile tire. What do you mean 'speed difference'? There should not be a difference (within the tolerances of what's available) as the bigger rims sizes use a lower profile tire to keep the rolling diameter i.e. the outside diameter of the tyre the same as before...applies whether you have 16", 17", 18", 19" or 20" on the IS250/350. There's only a problem if you fit a much wider tire or use rims with unsuitable offset. My rolling diameter is slightly smaller than with the 17" rims and tires I had on the car originally, and makes a difference of around -4 mph at 60 mph from the OEM setup, but as this is within the usual +10% the speedometers read anyway it just makes it more accurate. I've verified this with a hand held Satnav over a 5 mile straight line so haven't bothered to recalibrate the Lexus Satnav I have in the car (which apparently is possible). I switch between the 17" rims and 19" for Winter/Summer driving anyway. The only other difference is a slightly harder ride due to the lower profile tire not having the same amount of shock absorbance as the original tires. There's no other change in the way the car feels as far as stability is concerned. === I missunderstood you. But if use larger tire size the speed would be higher even your speedo shows lower speed and I'm interested in knowing the difference. There are various calculators to help you match up profiles to get similar speedo readings. Here's one: http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html http://www.moparregister.com/articles/calc/

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=brake+dust http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=41473

The piston rings and some other parts need to be seated and it's better to do that at varying speeds. I had about 250 miles on my car and had to go on a trip. I ran on cruise and changed the speed about every 5-10 miles. I ran 60 a while, 70 a while, etc. Sometimes I'd just take an exit, slow down and then jump back on the highway to give the motor a little workout. Usually traffic will cause you to have to speed up and slow down anyway.

Nothing. It's just not a good idea to drive a distance at steady RPM during break in.

Lexus say it's sometimes gasoline with a high sulfur content.

If it's that cold, then things just don't work right for a little while.

You should always duck, as it may be a rock or brick coming through the windshield instead of just the pop.

Maybe it got confused and didn't know which fob to listen to.

Here you go. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=9

Maybe the ECT power is turned on.

Wow, helpful post. If you don't have an alternative answer it's better you don't post anything.

How's your idle RPM?