bartkat

Every component in the braking system has an effect on stopping power/distance. Go ahead and believe what you want, even if it's wrong. If you cannot grasp the concept of deceleration rate prior to tire lockup, then I'm finished trying to convince you of the truth.

I read your article, but it appears you didn't read mine. Are you really saying that the time it takes a "clamping" pad to slow the wheel/tire assembly doesn't make any difference in stopping distance? Remember at a given speed, time = distance. Would you say that the fact that pad x brings the wheel to a stop in less time than pad y makes no difference? If you do, you're just wrong. Even your expert points out that the effiency of each component in the system has an effect.

The pads do stop the car, as they stop the wheel/tire assembly. The faster they are able to do that the shorter the stopping distance. It can vary 10 to 20%. The effiency with which the pad is able to slow down the wheels and hence the car is not the same for different materials. The pads don't just grab the rotors and stop the wheels. The coefficient of friction of the pads is a major factor in stopping distance. I'm talking one panic stop from road speed. There is still energy (heat) to be dissipated here as well as initial friction to slow the wheels way before the lockup occurs. Read up. What stops the car is the force between the road and the tires. Period. I suggest -you- read up...lemme help http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage1.html The author has forgotten more about brakes than any 10 guys on here know. He's a world known brake engineer. Page 3 is where he gets to brake pads... Here's the most relevant parts- "Ths part might surprise some and offend others, but it is a big misconception that changing brake pad material will magically decrease your stopping distances. In fact, you may have even seen published "data" which attempts to correlate stopping distance to friction coefficient. Although it may appear that there is a relationship between the two, there really isn't, and here's why." He then goes on the explain why.... later he adds- "Brake pads with radical changes in coefficient over their operating range are not a racer's best friend. Be sure to select one that remains relatively stable under the operating conditions you are expecting, but don't expect any shorter stopping distances, because the brake pads don't stop the car" And especially- "So why change brake pad materials in the first place? Because increasing the coefficient of friction can allow for the use of smaller/fewer caliper pistons and/or will reduce the amount of pedal force that the driver needs to apply in order to generate a given rotor output force." We're not changing the pistons here though, so that's not relevant. And the amount of input force isn't either, as either pad can engage the ABS system, which means the driver is already applying the maximum possible pedal force. So, once again, I tell you, it's physically impossible for the two similar pads that both can engage the ABS system to change braking distance by a measurable amount. And so does the author of the article. Please don't ever mention physics here again. I think it's time for your remedial course. When you pass that then I'll listen. So you have nothing to actually dispute the professional brake engineer I quoted. Gotcha. As an aside, I encourage everyone to read that article, it dispells a lot of common misconceptions about brakes... especially good for the folks who think "drilling" is a good idea for rotors too. I encourage you to read 100 other articles by 100 other experts. Your guy is playing with semantics while you parrot the same. You guy says wind is a factor. Will a 50MPH wind stop your car faster than a 10MPH wind? Same thing goes for pads. The quicker they get your tires to stop, the quicker your car stops. Argue with that point all you want mr expert. BTW: There's data that shows different stopping distances with different pads. I have yet to see any data in your presentation.

The pads do stop the car, as they stop the wheel/tire assembly. The faster they are able to do that the shorter the stopping distance. It can vary 10 to 20%. The effiency with which the pad is able to slow down the wheels and hence the car is not the same for different materials. The pads don't just grab the rotors and stop the wheels. The coefficient of friction of the pads is a major factor in stopping distance. I'm talking one panic stop from road speed. There is still energy (heat) to be dissipated here as well as initial friction to slow the wheels way before the lockup occurs. Read up. What stops the car is the force between the road and the tires. Period. I suggest -you- read up...lemme help http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage1.html The author has forgotten more about brakes than any 10 guys on here know. He's a world known brake engineer. Page 3 is where he gets to brake pads... Here's the most relevant parts- "Ths part might surprise some and offend others, but it is a big misconception that changing brake pad material will magically decrease your stopping distances. In fact, you may have even seen published "data" which attempts to correlate stopping distance to friction coefficient. Although it may appear that there is a relationship between the two, there really isn't, and here's why." He then goes on the explain why.... later he adds- "Brake pads with radical changes in coefficient over their operating range are not a racer's best friend. Be sure to select one that remains relatively stable under the operating conditions you are expecting, but don't expect any shorter stopping distances, because the brake pads don't stop the car" And especially- "So why change brake pad materials in the first place? Because increasing the coefficient of friction can allow for the use of smaller/fewer caliper pistons and/or will reduce the amount of pedal force that the driver needs to apply in order to generate a given rotor output force." We're not changing the pistons here though, so that's not relevant. And the amount of input force isn't either, as either pad can engage the ABS system, which means the driver is already applying the maximum possible pedal force. So, once again, I tell you, it's physically impossible for the two similar pads that both can engage the ABS system to change braking distance by a measurable amount. And so does the author of the article. Please don't ever mention physics here again. I think it's time for your remedial course. When you pass that then I'll listen.

The pads do stop the car, as they stop the wheel/tire assembly. The faster they are able to do that the shorter the stopping distance. It can vary 10 to 20%. The effiency with which the pad is able to slow down the wheels and hence the car is not the same for different materials. The pads don't just grab the rotors and stop the wheels. The coefficient of friction of the pads is a major factor in stopping distance. I'm talking one panic stop from road speed. There is still energy (heat) to be dissipated here as well as initial friction to slow the wheels way before the lockup occurs. Read up. Anti Lock Braking will only help to maintain vehicle control and will NOT reduce stopping distances in normal driving conditions. It is a fallacy that ABS will make the car stop faster.

No data then huh? That's almost as good as saying your butt dyno says your new intake adds 20 HP. No, it's an understanding of physics. It would be impossible for it change the braking distance because the pads are not what stop the vehicle. It'd be like you asking me to provide data to "prove" that stickers don't add horsepower. Stopping power isn't just about clamping down on the disks with just anything that will grab them. If that were the case then the optimum would be carbon-carbon pads and rotors. Better yet stick a broom handle in the spokes and stop even faster. And no, I didn't ask you to prove a negative. Perhaps this or some of the other articles from a Google search will help you gain a better understanding of the factors related to brake pads and stopping ability. http://www.tirerack.com/brakestechpage-1/88.shtml http://www.sdt.com.au/safedrive-directory-...INGDISTANCE.htm http://www.bendix.com.au/ABSESCReplacementBrakePads.aspx http://ford.justanswer.com/questions/19ypo...erceptor-failed

No data then huh? That's almost as good as saying your butt dyno says your new intake adds 20 HP.

Anybody got comparative data on those stopping distance claims?

Lights are thoroughly useless since they illuminate in front of the car, not to the side where I exit. Right now the only thing they got going for them is the "cool" factor. I didn't know no delay meant that they still stay on until the door opens. I'll have them changed next time. That's just not true.

Tires is tires and punctures is punctures. I had one go flat and used flat fixer temporarily, but driving caused more damage so I needed a new tire. Once the cord is damaged or if a puncture is on the shoulder, you can't really repair a tire. While I was at it I bought two new Continental all weather tires for the back so they would match. They do have a thicker deeper tread. I liked those tires so well I bought two for the front.

Wat?

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles...burn_rates.html

I filled up today and drove around maybe 20 miles including two zero to 100 MPH runs and my readout says 22 MPG.

Read up, and decide what you want to try and then try it. If you don't like it, try something else. Everyone has their own preferences. The basic thing is that you want to protect your car and put in the amount of work or money that suits you.

I use NXT Gen wax and top it off with Zaino CS. Then between detailings I use McGuiar's ULTIMATE QUIK DETAILER™

I don't know but somebody probably does and please don't type in all caps.

How much horsepower do you have? And please don't type in all caps.

Where kin I git me one of them kits?

Nice.

Maybe. You'll need one with a heat shield that works. I don't know which ones are CARB approved though.

It's going to intake hotter air without the snout. Also if the fans come on it can cause turbulence into the air box and cause stalling.

How about the drunk that called and said someone stole his steering wheel. He was in the back seat.

One of the cheapest mods is to paint the brake calipers and put Lexus logo stickers on them.

You're getting the evap codes because the hose that goes from the air box to the evap system is disconnectd and/or plugged. If that system isn't connected that's what happens. The aftermarket intakes have a place to hook that hose up.

100 posts. Congrats.