bartkat

You must go to Auburn

Um, I'm sorry bartkat, but no "good ideas" are allowed in this thread... actually, that badge idea is very cool as a replacement... My bad.

Perhaps JoeZ and Fsport would be a clue.

Irontoad or Sewell Lexus for filters.

Could you remove the location from your profile? Most of us other Alabama owners are becoming somewhat embarrassed.

Buy the Fsport intake from Westminster and take the free badge and put that in place of the IS250 badge I put mine below the IS350 because I'm not the least bit embarrassed it's not a ISF.

Even non directional radials are squirrely for a while if you turn them around.

Hey bartkat..... you know most guys don't read manuals!! That's how we get to share our expertise.

Thanks for sharing.

If people read their manuals we'd lose half of this forum.

Try this pdf. fog_light_removal.pdf

I'm interested in the spiders that make these "cobwebs".... ;) Are they Black Widow type, or perhaps the Brown Recluse?? B) Please explain these "spiders"? Spiders make spider webs. Cobwebs come from lack of use and lack of cleaning Cobwebs could be considered an lesser version of dust bunnies.

I sent her to Sears to get me a seersucker suit. She went to Cox's instead.

No problems in 3 years with my IS350

Take it out and run it up to at least 6000rpm in each gear. Then add a can of BG44k engine treatment to the gas every 5k miles. If you drive over 100mph add 3lbs to each tire pressure. Add an K&N lifetime air filter and check it every 3 mo to see if it needs cleaning and reoiling. Make sure 4 wheel alignment stays in check. I think back in the 60's, before FI, multi-cam, variable valve control, ECU controlled, etc., etc. like to days engines, "blowing out the carbon" might have been effective. But, today's engines don't have the same problems. They are extremely advanced in terms of automotive design, HP/Torque per cubic inch, and fuel management. I'd have to see some certified tests that demonstrate that taking a well-maintained IS250 driven by my wife (she is a very conservative driver) for example, testing it on a dyno. Then taking the same IS and letting me drive it (a lead foot, WOT kinda driver), then testing it on a dyno to compare any differences in "performance gains"..... I doubt that I will see any significant difference that has been attributed to some kind of "blowing out the carbon" or something that the ECU does to "learn my driving habits"...... By the way... K&N filters are not going to add any power or performance gains to an IS250 or IS350. SHOW ME THE MONEY!! That's just my worthless opinion. I disagree. Advancements in engines don't keep them clean if they are driven mostly in town. And an ECU that has learned that type of driving isn't going to relearn from a couple high speed runs. I've read of the dyno tests on reset ECU's on IS300's but don't remember where. If I run across it I'll post it. Most all the general principle of older engines and cars still hold today. Tires aren't the same now either, but listen to the care suggestions. Still the same.

You used to be able to simply disconnect the battery for a number of minutes. (Fifteen minutes seemed to be the magic number everyone threw around, but I always figured once you disconnected the power it only took a few seconds.) Anyhow, I'm not sure if there's any sort of battery backup on our cars these days. In which case, I suppose you'd be looking for a "reset" switch/combination/etc. Somebody here should be able to respond accordingly. One thing to note is that your car's computer is "optimizing" itself for the way "you" drive. If you're not going to drive WOT all the time, there really is no benefit to resetting it. Afterall, its just going to relearn your everyday driving habbits. BUT - If you wake up one morning and decide you don't want to drive like a nancy anymore, go ahead and start from clean slate. Same goes for the opposite and you are suddenly concerned with poor gas mileage. You get my point. But fear not, your car will hit WOT with or without resetting the ECU. How quickly it responds is open to debate. The battery disconnect reset is in the owners manual.

I heard this before. Is there any validity to that practice? Sure there is, especially if you reset the ECU prior to making that drive. I need help with this. Can you please elaborate? :) Well in the first place we used to blow the carbon etc out of motors by driving at high speeds. Since that isn't all that safe etc you can do the same thing by gearing down and running somewhat high RPM without having to drive 100 plus mph. I think that even with high tech engines and good gas that over time there is some buidup that can be somewhat cleared this way. For instance if a car is driven slow and idled a lot like a taxi, the motor is going to get crud built up. As for the ECU. When you reset it, it goes to new car default and leans how you drive. So if you drive a little hard once in awhile it's going to learn that. There have been tests on dyno of normal driven car power and then reset ECU and drive fast power and there is a significant difference. How do you reset the ECU? Disconnect the negative (black wire) battery terminal for 10 minutes. You'll have to reset your window switches by running each window all the way down and back up after that.

I heard this before. Is there any validity to that practice? Sure there is, especially if you reset the ECU prior to making that drive. I need help with this. Can you please elaborate? :) Well in the first place we used to blow the carbon etc out of motors by driving at high speeds. Since that isn't all that safe etc you can do the same thing by gearing down and running somewhat high RPM without having to drive 100 plus mph. I think that even with high tech engines and good gas that over time there is some buidup that can be somewhat cleared this way. For instance if a car is driven slow and idled a lot like a taxi, the motor is going to get crud built up. As for the ECU. When you reset it, it goes to new car default and leans how you drive. So if you drive a little hard once in awhile it's going to learn that. There have been tests on dyno of normal driven car power and then reset ECU and drive fast power and there is a significant difference.

I heard this before. Is there any validity to that practice? Sure there is, especially if you reset the ECU prior to making that drive.

Take out every 5000 or so miles and drive several miles in 3 or 4 gear at 4500 rpm. That will keep the cobwebs out of it.

A bulge or bubble on a sidewall is a sign of ply separation. This could be the result of damage or a manufacturing defect. It's often hard to tell.

I think that it is almost funny that they have the keyless on the Corolla now. I know that Toyota and Lexus are the same company but I think they should have left the Keyless for the people who actually know what it does haha. I don't think most Toyota owners even read the manuals(no offense). In my experience a bunch of IS owners don't read their manuals either.

I got the Lexus FSport intake from Wesminster Lexus on Ebay for $299. I think it's a good as any and it's Lexus parts. Design looks good and it works with the stock snorkel.

The compound and the tread design matter in snow. The tread blocks need to be "self cleaning" so they keep a biting edge. Tire treads packed with snow are about as good a slicks.