smc

Hey 91LS. I'm having the same problem and am in the process of trying to fix myself. Last time I had this problem a year ago it was one of my two main O2 sensors and dealer charged $350 to investigate and fix. Using the procedures in the following forum thread link, http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...++engine++light I've determined that once again it's probably a main O2 sensor, the other one that's never been replaced. I purchased an OE Universal replacement on line for $52 and am going to try to change it out myself, but could be difficult due to rust. I'd be interested in hearing your outcome should yours also be an O2 problem. Regards, smc

Thanks for the reply 90LS. Yes, it was somewhat frustrating. With hot weather, black tape sticky stuff all over my fingers and some remaining on wires. Have sore hip from leaning into trunk also. Will put back together this weekend once I'm 100% convinced the problem is not in this area. I'm thinking your correct about the clicking noise being the shifter lock releasing, but as I recall that only happens when I have the car in Park. I'll verify when I leave work now. Will continue to work on the problem in the coming weeks before my next 300 mile trip, at which point I plan on using my new Escort detector which I don't want cutting out and eventually frying due to the on-and-off surges which I suspect will come in through the cig. lighter when I hit the brakes. I looked for a 12V car surge suppressor on line and didn't find one. If anyone else reading this thread has any additional thoughts in regards to finding the root cause of my problem, I'd appreciate hearing from you, esp. on the last two opinions I asked of SK and 90LS. Thanks, Steve

Hello SKperformance and 90LS400Lexus, and now 91L3xus. Well, last night per the 2003 thread solution I unwound the black tape around the wires and stabilizing brackets at that u-turn area where one of the wires is supposedly too short for the "trunk fully up pull distance" and found that the white-with-black-stripe wire of most concern was not broken or even chaffed. I could keep unwinding more black tape to and from that area but I believe I won't find anything, and just more to put back together. I didn't mention in my original post that about a year ago the dealer had to replace the power steering pump because it was leaking on the alternator. I believed them bec. I had to keep adding more PS fluid every 3 mo's. If it was the alternator, however, I'd expect other power problems not associated with just pressing the brakes. Do you agree? I'd also like your opinion on that other potentially faulty device I mentioned which I believe is called a brake relay or actuator. I do hear it or another part click in every time I press the brakes. Can't recall if this is normal. It's not real loud. Could this "relay" have worn out over time and be causing a short in the electrical system? I believe I heard of this same problem with an old or defective turn-signal device that would come into play in say, 91L3xus's problem. I also didn't mention that every other day I do get the Check Engine and Trac Lights coming on simultaneously for various amounts of time. Last time this happened 6 mo's ago it was a bad oxygen sensor, and I'm thinking/hoping that's all it is again this time. Once I can figure out where to get that diagnostic device which will display the problem codes (I read about in some thread), I'll attach and see if the current problem it's barking about could somehow be related to the brakes dimming headlights problem. Right now I'm thinking 50/50 chance. I'd also like your opinion on this. Thanks! Steve C.

OK, thanks to both of you for the quick response. I believe I found the proper thread from 2003 re. this problem. I wasn't using the proper keywords in my first search. I will attempt the fix and let you know if I still have issues. Thanks again! SMC

Hello all. I am new to the forum and would appreciate any help you can offer. I have a 1992 LS with about 102K miles. It has been cared for quite well by various dealers since I bought it used in 1996 with 63K miles. Problem is, every time I take it in for a problem like this I'm charged $325 or more, and I need to start trying to resolve these problems myself to save money and keep the car long term. Several months ago I noticed that after driving long distances at speeds of 60 MPH or more, the front headlights would dim significantly right when I pressed the brakes. This only happened after driving for several miles without pressing them. Well, the problem has continued to get worse, now dimming them and simultaneously cutting out my stereo power for about 0.5-1.0 second when driving only short distances (several blocks) at 40 MPH. When the headlights go dim they stay that way, but are almost as bright as they should be. The thing that worries me now is what will cut out next, something critical? The key thing to remember is that everything is fine powerwise until I press the brakes! The battery is about 3 years old and in generally good shape. The alternator has never been replaced to my knowledge. I really don't know how to check for shorts in the electrical system but I did check the brake lights and they all work fine, just one of the rear lic. plate lights is out. A guy at work told me that a bad brake bulb could be causing this problem, but I'm somewhat skeptical as I thought bulbs either work 100% or don't work at all, and rarely cause shorts. When the brakes are pressed, is there some sort of relay or electrical device that comes into play? I'm hoping this is the problem and it won't be an expensive repair. My second guess is that the alternator is faulty and somehow causing these symptoms. If anyone has a good idea of the source of my problem, I would appreciate hearing from you! Thanks, Steve C.