SRK

I also have a Dodge truck. If I saw an LS400 with those three spoke wheels on it I'd t-bone the car into the next guardrail instantly. I wouldn't waste either of my Lexus doing that little trick, but the Dodge would be sacrificed to get you off the road... Haahahahahaahahaahaha. Ugly wheels.

Part throttle misfire is very likely a bad ignition wire or a spark plug. Easy fix.

The resonators are complex in theory, so just google it and you'll find out. My understanding is that it reduces intake noise and improves mid-range. Many cars use them these days, of various shapes and sizes. If you haven't lost enough to notice, no big deal. The mod looks good anyways!

So you eliminated the Helmholtz resonator box on the right cam cover didn't you? How much power did you lose? Be honest now....

Billy - who's that sharp looking guy standing at the back of the 50 Ford? LOL - great photo, best of the bunch! My family had a 49 Ford Tudor, which was sold just before I learned to drive in 1971, so I missed taking my turn. But I waxed that '49 until my arms fell off. Good looking car. And the 74 Ford pickup - another classic. Enjoyed the slide show! SRK

Servicing the trans is easy, and always a good idea. Just drain the two and bit litres that are removed with the drain plug, and refill. Do that every now and then - I did it every third oil change on both cars for a couple of years - and that's it. No need to remove the pan or do a "power flush". The idea that the fluid shouldn't be changed is a myth whose origin I cannot explain. But it is promoted for some reason.

Who told you that cats "usually clog"? They don't know what they are talking about. Urban myth, and certainly not true of Toyota-Lexus components. As I mentioned, if you mess with the cats you'll destroy their function and the post cat O2 sensor which is there to continuously check cat function, will detect that and trip a code. There is no "filter" inside a cat, rather there is a monolithic catalyst, which looks like a sort of honeycomb, which provides the surface area for the reduction/oxidation reactions. Leave it alone is the best advice.

Leave the cats alone. They are a specific fit on these cars, tight to the engine block. That's why the starter is in the valley. There is nothing wrong with your cats - you'd have an O2 sensor code if there was. These cars were among the first to use pre and post cat sensors, and the post cat ones will trip a code if you mess with the cats, or they fail, which is very rare. Find something else to play with. Lexus was very careful in the design of the exhaust system, which is completely made of stainless steel, and I've never heard of the system wearing out - except for some flange gasket troubles.

Ninety dollars for two very good looking rotors and a set of pads?!!!! That's a great price! Only way to get that price in Canada is with a gun.....

Thank you guys - your responses confirm most well what we have on this site - and I like Landars comment that we are a little virtual world here. Almost a virtual family that just helps out every time. We are addicted to these cars, and I think I've convinced a buddy that he needs a GX470 to replace his 500SL that isn't serving him too well right now. Once he's hooked..... Take good care, everyone.

Gentlemen; In addition to this site I belonged to another - that concerns a car maker whose vehicles I repaired locally for over two decades - and on that site I have posted for over eight years, never once asking a question but only providing my best advice to those looking to repair their cars. A few days ago a member started a thread to recognize the "Hall of Fame" members who have helped routinely. In a list of over thirty names, I am not mentioned. I'm not looking to be "famous", just recognized with the others for having helped over the years. In addition that site has no moderator, and the members there get quite accusatory and nasty at times. I have endured the wrath of a few, and it's not pleasant. Today I am no longer a member of that site. This is the only one to which I now belong. We are a group that regardless of opinion remains respectful. We strive to help at all times. We are thankful for moderators who are introspective and judicious. Of all the sites I have belonged to (including CamaroZ28.com, the world's largest) this is the best, and I am always greeted as a friend. My thanks to you all. SRK

My GS400 had a slow crank problem for a while, intermittently, and it was the starter solenoid copper contacts. Easy repair once the starter is out, and no need for a new starter. Parts from Lexus were about $30.00.

Bit of a shot in the dark here, but it may be an exhaust leak as these cars use gaskets and flanges, rather than slip-joints and clamps. Had one blow out on my 92, and they make a tick related to throttle opening (more exhaust gases, more noise). Doesnt' sound serious in any event.

I just did the rear pads on a Mercedes 500SL. Last year I replaced the fronts. In both cases the warning sensor was on. And in both cases the sensor triggered with about 10k worth of pad material remaining. Nonetheless the customer wanted the pads replaced. I used aftermarket German pads, harder than stock, good bite and feel. The sensors were re-used on the rear, new on the front. $8.00 each sensor aftermarket price. The sensor on that car ( don't know about the LS430) is positioned to trigger long before the pads are actually worn out. No doubt the Lexus is the same. Inspect the brakes and ignore the sensor. Replace when close ( like 1/16 inch )

So have you put 200k on the car since my post? Are you listening? Drive the car gently, use the brakes. If the pulsations don't go away, have the rotors turned and fix the problem that way. Have you performed at least a voltage check on the alternator? Are you prepared to diagnose the car rather than complain? You got a good deal, you like the car, now fix it. Whose giving you advice locally? If the alternator is not performing have it rebuilt - you won't find them in wrecking yards, and why would you think that's the best way to go? Stop questioning your decision to buy the car and get on with it.

Although the 92's have the smaller brakes, and they do warp rotors, it's entirely possible that there are rust patches on the rotors where the pads sat when the car was off the road. Especially if it was stored outside. Drive it for a while, and the rotors will clean up with use and more than likely the vibration will disappear. Might tight a few hundred kilometers to fix itself. The vehicle inspection will not find a problem with the brakes like that. Most inspections are a joke.

Good point. The reason the speed rating is applied to tire choice from the factory is the car is not speed limited, so a tire is chosen that meets or exceeds the speed the vehicle is capable of. My 94 Camaro Z-28 had the speed limited to 112 in the ECU, so it had S rated factory tires. The SS Camaro had the same drivetrain but no speed limiter, and came from the factory with Z rated. The LS, at least in Canada, has the limiter set at about 150 mph, like my GS does, and consequently the factory tires reflect that. I've got Z-rated on the GS and H on the LS. When the GS tires wear out I'll be dropping to V-rated. Even Michelin advises to not exceed the posted road speeds regardless of the tire used. Liability rears it's ugly head. Achieving a higher speed rating does make for great handling tire in most cases, at the expense of ride quality and cost and wear. My point is that one can safely use a lower rating if observing the posted road signs is your habit.

I'm with you on this one Billy. The S speed rating approves the tire for 10 minutes at 112 mph, and as you don't drive that fast, it's perfectly safe. Load ratings are also specified on tires, numerically, and that's an entirely different rating UNRELATED to speed ratings. You're perfectly safe with the Symmetry, assuming that it's load rating is also sufficient for the car. You can look that up online easily, and more than likely it meets the requirements of the LS weight. I recall that this board has been around this topic, if one can call it that, many times. The facts are out there.

Everyone makes mistakes. The difference is in how you fix the mistake, and you're dealing with brakes, so you have to do it correctly. If it were my car, I'd remove the calipers and pry up the dust boot carefully and lift the piston all the way out. Inspect the piston and wipe it spotlessly clean. If it cleans up well, then wipe the bore of the caliper and see that the seal is still seated in it's groove. The lube the piston and bore with brake fluid and insert the piston squarely into the bore and press it in by hand. You should not have to pry on it, or otherwise beat on the piston to get it to start, or slide, into the bore. Then re-attach the dust boot. Install and bleed. You might lift the dust boot up a bit and if no fluid is present under it then the piston has not come out all the way. Press the piston squarely back into the bore. You should undo the bleeder to avoid pushing fluid back to the master cylinder. This might be the easy way to correct the problem, but as I said with brakes you must get it right first time.

Corrosion can start in the area of the wheel rim where the tire bead makes contact. Flaking power coating, damage, can expose the aluminum to road salt and moisture. So the corrosion lifts the bead a bit and air leaks through. Of course identifying the area is easy with a spray bottle or an immersion tank and any good tire shop should be able to do this. Once found the corrosion can be wire brushed away, and the area treated either with a silver spray paint, or a black mastic bead sealer. The tire is then just remounted. There is NO WAY you need to spend a $100.00 to fix such a simple problem. The idea that it is a "common thing" is absolute BS.

I was only able to find Raybestos rotors for my 92 and they were more expensive than dealer wholesale. So I bought the factory parts, and unlike most rotors they have a ground finish, not machined. Absolutely beautiful quality. Buy factory rotors. The 93 and later are more readily available in the aftermarket as the 91-92 are the only years of the smaller size rotors.

Your 2000LS has coil on sparkplug ignition - no plug wires, just plugs.

When you get right down to it, cars are appliances. Kind of like refrigerators. Sure we make noises about them emotionally, and I've been guilty of that all my life. But in the end, appliances. So use the appliance that will serve you best. That's the Lexus. Cars are only worthwhile if you drive them, and consider that having the opportunity to drive such a great car as the LS every day is good thing. For sure the car was designed to do what you need to do. If either car will fail early, it's the Volvo. So use the Lexus for the big commute and every day you'll be reminded of why it is such a great car. If it breaks, fix it or replace it, but don't worry about the future now. Auto Philosophy 101 is dismissed......

A quarter turn of the wheel before response occurs is SERIOUSLY loose. The car should not be driven. Have it towed to an alignment shop and get ready to spend money. It's not important why the steering became loose - it's only important that it is, and it needs to be fixed. Some damage has probably occurred and a trained tech is needed to put it right. If you do drive it again, take it straight to the shop.

If the O2 sensors are bad, there is NO WAY the catalyst function can be confirmed or condemned. At most I'd have the pre-cat O2's changed and then take the car for a fast, hard drive. That will heat the convertors to clean them, and if all is well, they'll respond by functioning properly. They last forever usually - even survive a bad coil that heats them to red hot, and still function. It's worth a try, and it won't duplicate labour and if it works, great. And don't fall for the "well this one's bad, so we should replace the other too". That's not a mechanic, that's a parts changer.....