SRK

Yes we are amazing - considerate, polite, non-judgmental, helpful. Which is why you don't fit in here Death. Go away noob, I hear your mother calling. Oh, and I do own a Chevy along with the Lexus. And I work on that car myself too.

We can't tell from here what the problem is. Like it was mentioned, take the car to a GOOD alignment shop. They'll do a "pre-alignment check" as it is not possible to accurately set angles if there is play in the suspension parts. They'll figure it out, probably show you where the problem is - think big pry bar between two components, and them yanking on the bar to make the parts move independently of one another. Then you will know what to do. Clanking is not good - and it's not a wheel bearing.

I don't think so.....

GKLCPA- take a step back for a moment. The problem isn't an O2 sensor, and it it most certainly not the ECU. It's failure of ignition, or fuel. And you'll need to determine which. So the starting fluid idea is good, just be careful with that stuff. Whatever it is, it appears not to pop a code, so it may be something that doesn't pop a code eh? That could be the fuel pump. So check the pressure, don't replace it. In fact don't replace ANYTHING without first diagnosing the problem. And unlike others I'm not advising you to spend $2000.00 on parts on a "guess". Diagnosis is the key, and yes, if it fails to start completely at some point, the diagnosis gets easier. SRK

You'll make a fine Lexus owner one day Ryan. You've got the right attitude! Welcome to the Club.

Because the check engine light has been illuminated, there will be a code in memory, and that will tell you the affected component(s) so you don't have to guess. Have it scanned and go from there.

Well I stand corrected. You must have some sort of option used in very high temperature environments. Slick system. So the solenoid valve is on the high pressure delivery pipe from the pump. You'll need to follow from the pump along to the fan motor. In that line will be the solenoid, and it will have a two wire connector I suppose. If you disconnect that connector and the fan stops, then I would think the temperature sensor is faulty. You mentioned that the fan runs all the time. If you disconnect the connector and the fan continues to turn, then the solenoid valve is locked up in the open position. So find the pipes that lead from the pump - one to the steering, and the other elsewhere. It's the one that doesn't go to the steering that you follow along, and you'll find the solenoid valve on it. I'm guessing, but it may be on the body of the car and not located close to the pump. Good luck!

The fan you refer to is a "viscous drive" fan, not really hydraulic. I was unaware that one could drain the oil in them. If you have done so, a special silicone oil has to be used, not hydraulic or petroleum oil. If that's what you used, it's over for the clutch. There is no solenoid valve that I'm aware of that controls them - the point of them is that with increasing air temperature passing through the radiator the silicone oil causes them to progressively lock up and begin cooling air movement, otherwise the fan "idles" at a relatively slow rpm and doesn't make noise or cause engine drag. Large trucks use air operated fan clutches, but I've never seen one on a car. So you need a new viscous fan hub. That's it. No repair possible as far as I know.

I had the same response once on my GS400. No throttle action except at fully depressed. That's the limp-home mode on these engines. It cured itself after about four re-starts, but had stored a code that the dealer said was the computer condemning itself. They believed it to be an anomaly, and another tech I know thought that it was a voltage surge from the alternator that caused all of the sensors to behave out of range. It never came back, and only the code was cleared. So I would suspect an ECU problem, or something causing the limp-home mode. Sorry I can't offer more.

Use a timing light to confirm output on the secondary side of both coils. One may have failed - a not uncommon thing with these engines. If you have access to one, an oscilloscope ignition tester would be even better. Did someone actually advise you that "Seafoam" would correct that problem? I'm amazed at the kind of "faith" placed in that product.

My wife used to drum her fingernails on the walnut surround on the passenger door switches....made me crazy. Someone once put their foot (!)on the dashboard of the GS. Took a few sunny days for the groove to go away. Last week a punk jimmied the door lock on my Dakota and stole a pack of gum and $1.25 in loose change. Will cost me $211.00 to fix - my pocket. It adds up to people not respecting the property of others. Some cultures do, others do not. There were no instances of Japanese looting after the tsunami. You don't see that respect too often. It's a simple matter of respect. And we are allowed to treat or view our cars as we wish, and others should respect that, as we'll respect their stuff. I won't apologize to my neighbors when my lawn needs mowing, and they won't lean on my cars.....

Once you have the wheel off, take the handle end of a hammer ( the wooden end ) and gently bump the cap out of the wheel from the inside. My GS had satin finish chrome caps that were in tough shape ( in 2004 ) I actually got Sewell Lexus to send me four of the chrome ones, and they look like new after seven years. Once I had their part number I checked with my local dealer, and the price was nearly the same, although I get a shop discount. So your local dealer may sell very close to Sewell.

You sir, are a textbook example of passive-aggressive behaviour. I can find nothing in Steve's comments that seem "arrogant and rude". Many clinicians would pay money to interview you. I'm quite sure that you could reduce Oprah Winfrey to fisticuffs....

I don't know of any car manufacturer that specifically permits the use of any fuel additive, or oil additive. They all state not to use them. Even Briggs and Stratton, the worlds largest manufacturer of small engines, prohibits the use of any additive. They also state not to use gasoline more than 30 days old. For certain using a car so infrequently that the gas is six months old is asking for trouble. Fresh gas will cure the problem however. As to emissions, full throttle strategies on modern engine management systems makes the mixture somewhat rich, both to protect the engine from a lean condition, and also to briefly overheat the catalytic converters, which cleans them. That's why many cars will smell (rotten eggs) after a full throttle run, as the converters heat up. Synthetic oil is great, changing it regularly is great, and driving the car regularly with good quality gasoline is great. Lexus don't need additives.

There is no need for a fuel injection system cleaner. Tier 1 gasolines contain enough detergent additives to ensure all is well, and Japanese injectors are not known for problems. Easier and better is to simply give the engine a few full throttle blasts up through the gears, like on a highway on-ramp. Fuel injector dwell time and flow rates are increased, intake valve deposits are cleaned up and the spark plugs achieve their self-cleaning temperatures a bit faster. What we used to call an "Italian tune-up". Heat is the important factor here. The additives you mention are nothing but snake-oil for modern cars. Waste of time and money. I will admit that Techron must be good, as Bosch of Germany authorizes it's occasional use. I used to use it, but no longer do. I use full throttle every now and then.

That's a fine looking car Jim! Really impressive! SRK

Well said B.

Have a look at NEW brake pads. The rears will be about 10mm thick when new, the fronts maybe 11 or 12. Sounds to me like they are keen to replace them at about half life. Only harm is to your wallet. Obviously your confidence level is very low regarding us....and you don't like independents.....so why are you here? Do you want us to tell you to use the dealer? That doesn't seem necessary given your views.

Agreed. The idea of being able to state "1%" thickness is laughable, and is obviously a scare tactic. In fact representing pad thickness by percentage is a mugs game in the first place. Measured thickness, as a fraction of original thickness, is best. Anything less than the thickness of a five cent piece means replace "soon". In the industry ( of which I was once a part...) brake work is known as "gravy" work - meaning one could make or beat the flat rate every time. Easy, no-brainer stuff for a tech. So they like to sell brake work. And you can scare the customer with all sorts of "safety" issues.

Trust me, no snake oil will fix it. Remove the head, inspect for cracks, inspect the gasket for the failure point. If it's the gasket, surface the head ( use a shop that has a profilometer and can prove the surface finish is with specs, and doesn't rely on their fingernails to do so instead) and then fix the engine properly. Then you'll have confidence in the car and be able to enjoy it. As much as it is a bummer, at least the diagnosis is clear, and the money will be spent correctly, rather than just throwing parts at it. Good luck.

My concern is that a compression test and a leakdown test are measures of cylinder sealing - rings and valves, and have nothing to do with the small leaks that may pass coolant. A cooling system pressure test is conducted over time - sometimes hours - and will force coolant into the cylinder. The engine can be cranked with the plugs out, and if a spray or mist of water comes out of a plug hole, then the problem is found. That would be the kind of test needed. The coolant has to be going somewhere, and if not seen on the outside of the engine or the ground, it's consuming it.

I don't think your radar is too high - it's your car. But do fill the system, and fill the expansion tank to max. Heating and cooling will draw coolant from the expansion tank and fill the system without any further intervention on your part. Don't open the system at the rad cap any more for a few day is my advice. These systems do not require "special" treatment to purge air. It's a Toyota after all. So drive it around, and then, when cold, open the rad cap and look. If there is an air space on top you have a problem. Gasket failures, and/or cracks, will prevent the system from developing vacuum when cooling down, which is what draws coolant from the expansion tank.

You have a bad ignition coil. Simple. Cheap. Fire your mechanic who couldn't decide between valves and a head gasket. There are two coils. When one fails, the engine runs on four cylinders. Find somebody with an old school ignition oscilloscope and the problem coil will be found within minutes. Or go to the dealer.

The smaller the bubbles the more likely it's a crack. Gaskets will blow out enough to produce the large bubbles. I've seen a lot worse than that video....and don't allow the system to overpressure because it can burst the heater core as the cap won't vent fast enough. That would be no fun either. The head has to come off and be checked for cracks, resurfaced if OK in a VERY good broach to factory flatness and surface finish. I don't know the flat rate, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's about 10 hours re and re.

If it is the gasket it will get worse rapidly. The pressure check is far less than the combustion pressure so it's possible ( although not for long ) for the test to not show the problem. When the gasket lets go more it might. On the good side it may not be the gasket at all. Run the engine with the rad cap off (cold) and see if any small bubbles appear. Good luck!