SRK

Check the engine oil quality, under the filler cap, top of the dipstick tube, for sludge. You may have a blown headgasket. It sounds like the coolant is being pressurized from combustion gases, and that's what is blowing it out. One of the symptoms of a headgasket failure. It may not be good news.....

You have to drive the tapered pin into the tapered hole in the arm - or pinch it in. Very large channel lock pliers is what I use. Once the pin is seated well, it should provide enough friction to allow the nut to tighten. If you have a floor jack place it under the lower arm and lift it up to ride height, then lever the upper arm down into the knuckle, which is now supported rigidly with the jack.

Some years ago I dealt with Car Stereo Repair in Florida - at least I think that's their name. Very good people. They'll fix the stock unit at low price. Phone them up anyways and tell them the problem.

Sounds like a bad connection someplace - chassis ground, battery terminals, starter motor cables. Turn on the headlights - should be bright white and then crank it. If it's worse, bad connection. Or the starter is drawing huge current, which I doubt.

Sounds like the headlights are finding a ground path different from the intended one. I don't know where it is, but it would be a start to find the ground wire for the headlights and check that it is secure.

At this point the only help possible is to advise you to take it to a dealer or known good independent for a proper diagnosis. Call a tow truck.

Obviously you handled the situation perfectly, and they responded ethically. Congrats and well done!

Whatever it is, I hope it's inexpensive and fixed quickly.

We are agreed on the misfire issue. The OP reports three black plugs. It should be four if a coil was acting up, but three is close enough to warrant a careful check of the coils. As we know these engines do have coil problems. The OP refers to "coil packs", which isn't a proper description of these coils. Coil packs mean things like GM or Mazda to me. So I'd put it on an oscilloscope and check coil function, primary and secondary. OP may not be around anymore though...

The sensor compares reference air and it's oxygen on the outside of the sensor (usually admitted along the wires) to the oxygen level present in the exhaust stream. Voltage is generated depending on the difference between the two. So it's oxygen, and nothing else, that drives the sensor to produce a voltage, interpreted by the computer as fuel/air ratio, which is adjustable over a fairly narrow band. I like Wikipedia a lot, but it's not perfect, and sometimes downright misleading.

O2 sensors don't measure fuel. They measure oxygen, which is why they are called "O2" sensors. So a dead misfire produces a huge amount of oxygen, and the computer sees that as lean, and adds fuel to the operating cylinders causing THEM to be rich.

So go turn on the headlights with the engine off. Are the lights bright white or somewhat dull? Leave them on for about ten minutes and then try to start. If it won't the battery is dead. Charge it. If it then starts well, suspect the alternator. Have someone who knows what they are doing check both the battery (load test) and the alternator (output test). It has to be one or the other.

Another way to check for bent valves is to pull a cam cover and check the lash on a few. When the valve bends it doesn't return all the way the seat so if you have say .060 lash on a valve that should have .008, you know it's bent. If one or two are, most are. Which of course would be bad news. Good luck with it.

Yes this is common as the solenoid is switching a few hundred amps of current each cycle. That wll create some arcing of the metal plate and eventually wear it. This problem is usualy a failure to start though which is different than explained. A worn plate or contact point in the solenoid tends to create dead spots where the starter will be intermittent. This post seems different. Why are you giving me advice? I don't need any advice.

If the battery is good, and the terminals are clean, then I would suspect the solenoid contacts in the starter motor. It's a common fault, and cheap enough once the starter has been accessed, which is a bit tougher. Don't replace the starter, replace the copper contacts - $30.00 Can. when I did it.

You might consider actually checking the ball joints for play, or having an alignment shop check them. They may not be the problem at all, or maybe they are. But the thing to do is diagnose the problem rather than throw parts at it. A good alignment shop will also check the tires for "hops" and run-out, which can also cause the symptoms you describe.

PCV valves have been used since 1964. They improve crankcase cleanliness, prevent deposits, keep piston rings free, lower oil contamination and extend the life of the oil and the engine. There is no need to disconnect it, and certainly many reasons not to.

Only you will know what will look best. That's an impossible question. However, there are lots of methods used to seal aluminum wheels that develop corrosion in the bead-sealing area. Which means there is no need to replace the wheels in the first place. The area can be sanded and sealed with an epoxy paint or bead sealing mastic can be used. Any good tire shop will be able to fix it. I've repaired both steel and alloy wheels many times, and it isn't rocket science.

If it has a proper SAE viscosity rating, is rated by the API to have an SM service requirement, and by ILSAC as GF-4 or GF-5, then it's fine. Being "pure" is meaningless. And the idea that a small outfit (I've never heard of them) can beat Mobil or any other of the Seven Sisters at their own game, is doubtful.

If you mean it has a delayed 1-2 upshift when cold, then that's completely normal. It's done I think to ensure the cats heat up more quickly. My 98GS does the same thing, my 92LS never did. Seems to be part of the 5 speed auto programming. No worries.

You could install the bolt and eyeball the camber close enough to drive to the alignment shop for a proper four-wheel align. Then again the shop, having identified the problem might be looking for at least the install, if not the sale of the part. It's up to you. If it was me, I'd let them install the part - it's a matter of goodwill.

As far as I know Toyota did not produce a connector for the pre OBD2 systems that is compatible with anything other than their own proprietary scan tools. All you can do is pull codes by light flash and sequence. I recall that the US government regulators had to force them to abide by OBD2 specs or threaten that they would not be allowed to sell cars in North America. I'd be surprised if you found much, but good luck.

You give Canadians a bad image writing like that. Expect further on it.

For sure it needs a belt if it's never been done! At that mileage the water pump is a good idea too. The mechanic may see some weeping from the vent hole on the pump, which is another good indicator. Guide pulley bearings will get checked. Cam seals are usually not a problem and they are tough to get at because of the Vvti system. Let him open it up and see, but get it done.

Ken11 asks a reasonable question and you call him crazy and ignorant. And it's his first post. Normally folks on this board are a bit more welcoming. Take your rants someplace else. If you get 4k for the car Ken11, good for you. You may find it tough to sell at that price, but you can always come down. Good luck with the sale.