SRK

All of our '98 and later GS's have hydraulic brake boosters, no vacuum booster at all. You are speaking of the brake assist feature, which does indeed boost the hydraulic pressures used in hard braking situations. My concern is that the dealer is mistaken in thinking that this feature in itself causes more rapid brake wear. But a pad thickness inspection will prove whether or not the OP needs new pads. And we'll have to wait for him to reply I suppose.

That's good news!

My 98 has the electric hydro-boost system. Why would boosted brakes cause them to wear faster? Nearly every car today has power brakes of one form or another.

My 98 GS was getting a bit low on front pad thickness at 60k miles and I changed them, but they would have gone further. Still on the originals on the back at 80k miles. For sure there is no need to replace rotors unless they are warped and even then they can be turned at least once. Bottom line is you need the brakes inspected by someone reliable, either yourself obviously, or an honest mechanic.

I'm old enough now thanks. I mentioned the antifreeze because when it mixes with oil it creates a nasty sludge. What is inside your engine may very well be overheating, lack of oil changes, or possibly some other chemical added to the engine - for who knows what purpose. But the dark appearance looks like oxidation to me. You may not believe me, and that's ok, but I have a great deal of experience in these matters. What happened to your engine, and obviously you as the purchaser, is indeed a shame, but it is highly unusual. And also not the fault of the engine. It's the previous owner, or a vandal, or a fraudulent service mechanic or all three. So if you are intending fix it, and not bail out back to Mercedes, I'd advise buying another engine from a wreck, at the best price possible. Unlike some cars, there isn't that much demand for these engines as they rarely wear out and you should be able to get a good deal. The labour to re and re would be 15-20 hours tops I would think. SRK

That sludge as you call is not the result of antifreeze. It's the result of no oil changes, for a very long time. It's what any engine without service would look like. So no I don't believe you that it's had oil changes. I'm sure you have better things to do than to slag all the people on this board that are devoted to Lexus. Go buy your Benz. And don't let the door knob hit you on the way out of here.

As you can see in my sig I own a Corvette now, and once had a fourth gen Camaro. GM uses a coolant called Dexcool, and it must not be mixed with any other type of coolant, unlike most today which are compatible. Dexcool is good for six years or 150,000 miles according to GM. It's a strange pink colour, intended to prevent folks from putting the green in with it. Used properly it is apparently very good stuff, but there are a few anecdotal horror stores.....which as we know do crop up from time to time......

A lot of the German thermostats use them - Volvo and Mercedes, at least the older ones I used to work on. Usually referred to as a "jiggle pin" and is used to bleed air through a closed ( when installed ) thermostat. Volvo specified the pin to be at 12 o'clock, and Mercedes the same. Infrequent coolant changes normally plug it up as the passage is so small. I used to drill Chevy and Ford thermos in the outer disc - a 1/8 inch hole - and that sure helped with filling.

I don't believe you.

First of all check fluid level. Probably you've done that - but be sure. Then consider that the shudder could be the driveshaft - a failed coupler or u-joint can vibrate when loaded in the opposite direction. If that's ok then perhaps it is indeed the trans, and from the Lexus techs I know, very well a bad solenoid or accumulator. What's called a "bottom fix" in the auto trans industry, not a removal and rebuild.

The sequence is not important. In the old days (pre 1967 ) cars had single circuit brakes, and that's why the advice was to start farthest away. Now we have ABS units, and tandem master cylinders using either front-rear split, or triangular split, and it just doesn't matter anymore. I tend to start at the right rear and go clockwise around the car, and then repeat. As well many shops use pressure bleeding, which is by far the best way, certainly better than pumping the pedal, and pressure also doesn't need any particular sequence. Just go around twice and you'll be fine. Be careful with the bleeder screws, usually they release nicely on these cars. I believe Lexus states DOT 3 fluid, although you could spend the extra and use DOT 4 which is fully compatible. No others though.

Brett my experience with the my local Lexus dealer is much like yours, even though my cars are much older. And like you I found that some folks just don't want to hear it. I also buy parts from them through my repair shop, so I get wholesale pricing, and they even take 10% off the repair bills for parts and labour, knowing that I have a limited company in the business of repairing cars. I get oil filters for less than $4.00! No complaints here! SRK

The only time I have heard of a full tank of gas for warranty was the recall campaign on the 2004 LS which received new transmissions and new fuel pumps before a particular VIN. That was a one time goodwill gesture from Lexus. Other than that campaign, I don't believe one could expect a full tank. Regardless, your service manager should offer something to make up for the loss of use due to the "senior technician" !Removed! up. As to your assertions of loss of life and limb possibilities, they are irrelevant. Overstate those and you'll get nothing.

Daffy I ran a repair shop (small one) for many years. In that time very few people asked for old parts. If I kept them it was to show people how closely they had averted disaster in one form or another, but not because of trust. If you feel you need to mark parts, or get some stuff back ( be assured there is no lack of old parts from other cars lying around to fool people with if the shop so desires ) then there must be a complete lack of trust, and you should find another shop. That's the way I see it anyhow.

So the mechanic knows that the engine is destroyed, and yet is unable to find or diagnose the coolant loss? Big alarm bells. He's apparently able to find and remove the spark plugs to do a compression test. He should have done a wet test - added oil - and re-tested the compression. If it comes up, install the plugs, and add coolant and fire the engine up. Then, and only then, would one be able to condemn the engine. Lexus does not supply oversize pistons, just stock pistons and rings. If the engine is truly badly damaged, then installing a good used one is the way to go - except that it should be installed by a competent mechanic. There are cases of fraudulent people repairing engines they condemn and then representing the engine as new or replaced. It's quite profitable for them. He needs to make the case a bit better for $6k. And your boss should visit the shop during the job to see the engine out of the car and the "new" one as well.....

There is perhaps amongst some folks too much interest on what the previous owner has done. You have a nice car obviously, and with that low miles you can keep it that way. And the way to do that is to inspect it yourself, and do what is needed, and you need not reference previous work to do that. Pull a spark plug or two and have a look at the t-belt while you are doing that. Change all fluids as a routine matter and start new. Flush the brakes. Then you'll know where you are, the work will be done properly, and there is no guess work.

I'm not a moderator, but I'd say you're breaking "protocol". Of course as the thread is a million years old....maybe not....

Engine or transmission mounts are worth checking carefully.

So if the rear axle was bad, it would be noticeable under acceleration as well. Probably under steady state speed on the highway too. So who diagnosed this fault? If the problem occurs only during braking, well it might be the brakes. As well an axle that is that bad can be felt by hand to have excessive play in the u-joints. Better and more diagnosis is my advice.

I don't think Amsoil will hurt anything, but whether it's worth the extra money or superior to the Toyota/Lexus fluids is doubtful. I can't imagine you're talking about a 9 iron in golf....or is it a metric designation? In imperial measure I prefer a .45 inch....

The manual calls for Toyota Type IV in the trans, and Dexron ( of any designation ) in the power steering system. As far as I am concerned, Amsoil is used by people who once were, or perhaps still are, Moonies. Strictly cult stuff. What does your signature mean?

I couldn't resist Denny - and that's the second time I've been able to use the quote on this board. With more info we could all help him for sure. SRK

Funny how? Funny like I'm a clown? I'm here to amuse you? I don't know. You said it. How am I funny?!!!!

Any Dexron fluid will do - they are backwards compatible. And what makes the difference between them is important only to the insides of an automatic trans, and not to a power steering system where it is strictly used as a hydraulic fluid. Even Toyota type IV will work, at additional cost in dollars of course.

If you did what you claim to do as a mechanic, to real customers, you would be guilty of fraudulent behaviour, and at the right price a felony offense.