SRK

You must be a favorite customer down at the parts store. Trying to predict failure times is a mugs game - you can't do it. I use skill to diagnose which component has failed, but only after it has failed. Imagine that. But you carry on throwing parts around - and one day when something actually does fail....you won't have money to fix it.....

Cold start emissions are most certainly measured and controlled - it remains one of the most difficult aspects of vehicle emission control. When running in open loop engines derive their fuel mixture adjustments from "program values" stored in memory, which are initially base values set by the manufacturer, and then modified by long and short term fuel trims as the car is driven ( compensates for altitude, ambient temperatures, etc..) The move to direct gasoline injection has been spurred in part by cold start performance, as it's much better than port injection in that regard.

No, what I mean is a "leaner" mixture, less rich than would otherwise be needed, not "lean". It is still slightly rich, but less so as the higher rpm will allow it to be. The cats are warmed by exhaust gas, as are the O2's, along with their heater circuit. The important thing is to prevent a misfire, either rich or lean, as that's what causes a great deal of emissions. Higher rpm makes it easier to avoid a misfire.

That's a good question, and the answer is a bit complex. When the engine is cranked for starting the initial rpm is "flared" to ensure that all cylinders fire quickly without misfire, reducing emissions. After start-up the idle is held high to allow for leaner mixtures during cold running, and to help bring the catalytic converters to temperature faster, and to heat up the O2 sensors faster. This is all done to get then engine through the warm-up phase more quickly, as that phase is when emissions tend to be highest. Once the engine and sensors are warm of course the computer goes into closed loop, and emissions are far lower.

The fact that he said he "replaced the distributor" means he doesn't know what he is talking about or what he is doing. My advice would be to keep looking for another LS, as this one may be damaged beyond an easy repair.

My '92 has excellent brakes when the caliper sliders are moving freely. When one of them tightens up, which has happened once on the rear brakes and once on the front brakes, the pedal get mushy. Lubing the pins and allowing the caliper to move squarely to the rotor restores the high, hard pedal with excellent modulation feel. I don't know if your year LS has floating calipers, but if so an easy and inexpensive check would be to lubricate the sliders if present and ensure that the caliper/pad/rotor clearance is established properly.

Could be a broken trans mount allowing excessive movement and throwing the linkage out of alignment.

You need a reply? I'll give you one. This is a respectful community on this board, and sarcasm isn't going to get you anyplace. That said you will find : A - That these cars are VERY reliable B - The GS has no inherent or common faults C - Your rambling first post doesn't make clear just what you are asking about

Well it would have helped if you had mentioned the misfire in the first place....but an intermittent misfire could be a bad plug wire shorting to ground and then not, or a cracked distributor cap and or a bad rotor. If you can find someone with an ignition oscilloscope then it should be an easy fix without having to throw parts at it. Diagnose first, then replace parts.

There are no real options to the factory parts - they are very good indeed. And you should not require a coil as they either work or they don't. Factory plugs are Denso, maybe NGK. Best there is.

I put 95 wheels on my 92 and used a Michelin 225/55-16 tire. It is extremely close to the original diameter, less than 1% difference. The ride improved over the stock wheel and tire, steering is better, tracking is better, less "mushy" feeling. Even looks better. It's the right thing to do.....

Sounds like it has -- so remove it and have it repaired by a good automotive electrical shop, or diagnosed there. Probably just needs a set of brushes, if not a diode or two is blown.

The stock wires are quite small in diameter, but they work just fine.

So if it runs well in open loop and poorly in closed, it's probably one of the O2 sensors (pre-cat). Check the code again - you may have interpreted incorrectly.

You can tell the difference between say, 190F and 230F with your fingers? I don't think so. So if the trans fluid doesn't heat up, where does the heat energy appear? Apparently simple physics eludes you. I'm not saying downshifting is bad - only that one has to choose which component gets hot in converting braking energy. And I use the brakes.

A "Jake Brake" opens the exhaust valves at the top of the diesel compression stroke, turning the engine into an air compressor, which is why the exhaust note or tone changes so dramatically. The heat of compression keeps the engine from over-cooling, and that heat is what would otherwise be in the wheel brakes. In a modern gasoline engine the braking provided by the engine is far less, as the valves are opened at the bottom of the power stroke, so compression-expansion makes the deal about even, and the fuel is shut off entirely on deceleration, which adds a bit to the braking effect. It's mostly the high rpm friction that causes braking effect, and it's minimal compared to a Jake Brake for sure. The point of my reply is that to slow the vehicle the kinetic energy is turned to heat energy - through the brakes or the driveline. Take your choice. But both must generate heat to slow the vehicle. And my further point is that the brakes are designed to do this, and Lexus brakes, at least after 1992, are quite capable of slowing the vehicle without damage.

Nothing is for free. When you select a lower gear the transmission's sprag is locked up, and the driveshaft drives the trans and engine to a higher rpm. The torque convertor works harder, increasing trans oil temperature. The engine spins at a higher rpm. Predicting wear rates is impossible. Whether the drivetrain wears more than the brakes cannot be known. But consider that all of the heat that would have been generated by the brakes will (and must be) generated in the drivetrain instead and dissipated through the cooling systems of the trans and engine. Simple physics. Your choice. I use the brakes in cars. That's what they are for. In semi's I use the Jacob's engine brake - and the engine temperature is maintained every time.

I mentioned in my previous post that the problem is simply the brushes. The Denso brand OE alternator is incredibly reliable - bearings, commutator, windings, etc. and the only damage is the brushes. Cheap. You run to Autozone to speak with some bonehead there in the hopes of exchanging the alternator for big bucks. And now you think there are two different ones. Problem. So take my advice or not, but I assure you it's the best advice you'll get all day. Remove your alternator and have a competent local auto-electric shop put brushes in it. $40.00 probably, if they are honest. Or ignore.

The alternator just needs a set of brushes. Cheap. The ATF melts the carbon brushes and that's why you have low output. At least that's what happened to my alternator as a result of the PS pump leak.

Yeah, try that. Remember to yank on it.

Great car, great choice. You'll have no regrets at all. I'm a former Volvo owner and mechanic. Volvo will never, ever, build a car like Lexus does. They are simply incapable of it, like many manufacturers. From this point on, you'll be a Lexus convert. Congrats on the purchase.

Take the entire assembly off the car and go to a good Aeroquip or industrial hydraulic shop - that provides hoses for bulldozers and such. They'll crimp a new hose onto the existing fittings for probably less than $50.00 and you'll be good to go.

Real mechanics don't use penetrating oil. What, you tell Mrs. Smith "Mrs. Smith your car isn't ready, we're waiting two days for the oil to soak in." I don't think so. Make sure the socket won't round the nut. Then yank on the damn thing until either the nut breaks loose, or the stud unwinds from the head. Either event is ok. Worrying about what philosophy Lexus used in determining the number of fasteners won't help either. But it is to reduce noise-vibration-harmonics or NVH as the industry calls it. Get back to work

I'll second the vote for Michelin only. Don't mess with other brands. The MXV4 is the smoothest one they make, and although there are other choices that have better handling, they aren't as smooth as the MXV4. Just stay with Michelin.

The nuts can be really tight. Many times they have no lock washers and they just stick after all these years. You need a six point 1/2 inch drive socket. You may have to grind the "lead in" angle off the end of the socket so the entire hex face contacts the nut. Use only a good quality socket too. Remove the pulley for sure and get good access. Then go for it. 150ft. lbs. is just a bit more than a wheel nut - no big deal. Use what is needed with a breaker bar. Just do your preparation so you don't round the nut off - then you'll be cutting it off. It will let go with a bang. Be ready. SRK